Timeline for Is it a good idea to include thermal fuses in a DIY 3D printer design?
Current License: CC BY-SA 4.0
19 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jun 17, 2019 at 15:52 | answer | added | Robert | timeline score: 0 | |
| Jun 14, 2019 at 6:36 | history | edited | Greenonline♦ | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
Added clarifications and links to definitions
|
| Jun 14, 2019 at 0:01 | answer | added | user77232 | timeline score: 3 | |
| Jun 13, 2019 at 17:26 | history | edited | Greenonline♦ | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
Added thermal fuse types used in Thailand
|
| Jun 13, 2019 at 16:52 | answer | added | Michael D | timeline score: 0 | |
| Aug 29, 2018 at 20:20 | answer | added | cmm | timeline score: 1 | |
| May 26, 2017 at 16:56 | vote | accept | Greenonline♦ | ||
| May 25, 2017 at 20:31 | answer | added | Ecnerwal | timeline score: 1 | |
| May 17, 2017 at 15:19 | comment | added | tjb1 | I never looked enough to see if you could get a smoke detector with a relay for power. I'm sure you could tap into one and hook a relay to the buzzer but now you're relying on your work so that's up to you. Yes at the end I mention the fuse on the hotend because I think that's the only place it may be useful and it will need to be placed far enough away from the heater that you don't exceed the fuse limit when taking the hotend to 200-300C. They usually have a holding temp much lower than the opening temp as well, one I seen has a holding of 200C but doesn't open until 240C. | |
| May 17, 2017 at 15:07 | comment | added | Greenonline♦ | @tjb1 - Good points about the wiring, hotend and placement of the fuse above the heat-break. When you say shutting the power off, how do you mean to do that? Automatically, via a smoke detector connected to a power switch? Or manually, upon hearing the alarm? Also, I take it that you mean a thermal fuse near the hotend (in your final clause). Would you like to make an answer out of your comment? However, admittedly, Tom's answer seems to cover most of the points, already... although any additional points would be most welcome... | |
| May 17, 2017 at 15:04 | vote | accept | Greenonline♦ | ||
| May 17, 2017 at 17:48 | |||||
| May 17, 2017 at 14:47 | answer | added | Tom van der Zanden | timeline score: 4 | |
| May 17, 2017 at 14:40 | answer | added | Davo | timeline score: 1 | |
| May 17, 2017 at 14:26 | history | edited | Greenonline♦ | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
Fixed typos
|
| May 17, 2017 at 14:14 | comment | added | tjb1 | Sorry, I read footnote 1 and missed the "not". Now that we are talking about those that melt I have other comments! Last time I looked I believe it was hard to find one that could handle hotend temperatures so mounting near the heater is not going to be possible, maybe further up the heat break but then you need to experiment. Most fires I believe come from the wiring, either at the bed or controller and that would be difficult to catch with a fuse unless it's already on fire. You would be better off using a smoke detector and shutting the power off and maybe a fuse near the hotend. | |
| May 17, 2017 at 12:17 | history | edited | Greenonline♦ | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
Added explanation
|
| May 17, 2017 at 11:16 | comment | added | tjb1 | I've had a thermistor fail on a 24v printer that had a cartridge heater and it got hot enough to burn the kapton tape before I noticed it. My point here is I don't think watching or working with the current is a good way to go. Most heaters we use are capable of burning something by just leaving them on with the 5a they get. Sure you can find the right heater that won't exceed your temperature with full amperage and unlimited time but then the initial heat up will be terrible. | |
| May 17, 2017 at 7:12 | history | edited | Greenonline♦ | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
Constitutes - fancy word
|
| May 17, 2017 at 5:54 | history | asked | Greenonline♦ | CC BY-SA 3.0 |