Timeline for Material for autoclave-able part
Current License: CC BY-SA 4.0
19 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| May 22, 2020 at 15:45 | answer | added | user21307 | timeline score: -2 | |
| May 26, 2019 at 14:07 | comment | added | Alex Szatmary | @T.M. I do have a spool of PETG that I haven’t even tried. Good tip. | |
| May 26, 2019 at 14:04 | comment | added | T. M. | Either of those would work too. It looks like you tested with PLA and it warped some but not too bad. Did you test PETG? The glycol is supposed to keep the PET from crystallizing and it may work for you. I’m curious if you have a chance to try it. | |
| May 25, 2019 at 2:43 | vote | accept | Alex Szatmary | ||
| May 22, 2019 at 4:10 | comment | added | Alex Szatmary | I'm also considering 3D printing a mold that could accommodate a material suitable for autoclaving or using another fab method altogether, such as CNC milling. | |
| May 22, 2019 at 4:03 | answer | added | Alex Szatmary | timeline score: 7 | |
| May 22, 2019 at 2:40 | comment | added | Trish | Anything that prints that hot also needs an enclosure. | |
| May 22, 2019 at 2:16 | history | edited | Trish |
edited tags
|
|
| May 21, 2019 at 23:22 | history | edited | Alex Szatmary | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
Specified type of printer
|
| May 21, 2019 at 23:08 | comment | added | T. M. | I don’t have the expertise others here do but the e3d v6 can reach high temps especially if it has a higher temp pt100 thermocouple and compatible heater block. The bigger problem would be the heated bed that might not be hot enough. Also if you autoclave at 121C, there must be some filament in the middle between that and peek that can handle that temperature. | |
| May 21, 2019 at 20:50 | comment | added | Alex Szatmary | @T.M. I was afraid that the problem was that if I wanted something temperature resistance, I'd need to be able to print at higher temperatures than my printer can accommodate. I have a Prusa i3 MK3s which used an E3D v6 hotend. | |
| May 21, 2019 at 19:49 | comment | added | Alex Szatmary | @CrossRoads I edited my question to correct it: the problem isn't that these materials melt at 121ºC, it's that they soften and warp at below that temperature. | |
| May 21, 2019 at 19:48 | history | edited | Alex Szatmary | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
clarified that the issue is softening, not melting
|
| May 21, 2019 at 18:54 | comment | added | CrossRoads | Huh. I haven't tried doing any heat tests with the few pieces we've printed, will have to look into that for durability. | |
| May 21, 2019 at 18:51 | comment | added | dandavis | @CrossRoads: I had PLA wine charms that "melted" in the dishwasher, which doesn't even get to boiling... | |
| May 21, 2019 at 16:17 | comment | added | CrossRoads | Doesn't PLA need >180C to melt? My spool from MG Chemical is labelled 200-210C. 121C is way below that. digikey.com/products/en/maker-diy-educational/… I don't see any under 185C as the lowest temp. I've only been 3D printing about a week (after solving several assembly issues), but I would think 60C below the lowest material extruding temperature would be okay. ABS is even higher, I recall 230 being the lowest extrudable temp. | |
| May 20, 2019 at 23:49 | comment | added | T. M. | What do you consider common filaments? This PEEK filament specifically lists its resistance to autoclaving up to 250C. 3dxtech.com/carbonx-carbon-fiber-peek-3d-printing-filament The other PEEK and PEKK filaments there also list high continuous use temperatures and glass transition temps. It takes nozzle temperatures in the 400C range and bed temp above 130C, but it you want high temperature resistance you're going to need to be able to print at fairly high temperatures. | |
| May 20, 2019 at 22:25 | review | First posts | |||
| May 21, 2019 at 4:33 | |||||
| May 20, 2019 at 22:21 | history | asked | Alex Szatmary | CC BY-SA 4.0 |