6
$\begingroup$
  • Plastic: Same Matterhacker PLA (filament I use every day)
  • Printer: Anycubic i3 Mega (the one I use every day)
  • Slicer: Ultimaker Cura 4.2.1

I don't know what's causing it, I haven't changed any slicer settings to my knowledge, I haven't changed anything on the printers end, and I'm using the same filament I've always used. But for some reason, the first layer is simply not sticking. At first I noticed when doing a print the nozzle seemed a little higher than normal for the first layer, but then it started having problems where 0 % of the filament would stick to the bed and it would all just come off and turn into a mess. I've checked and checked, but I see no reason the printer would just start doing this now all the sudden when it's worked perfectly for a year now.

EDIT: Something I've noticed since posting this is that older sliced models seem to print just fine, which means there's something about the newser slicer settings that's causing it. I don't know what I would have changed though and/or how to restore to my original settings.

Improve this question
$\endgroup$
14
  • 2
    $\begingroup$ Did you re-level your bed? $\endgroup$
    – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
    Commented Sep 6, 2019 at 22:35
  • $\begingroup$ Sure sounds like the nozzle height has been increased a little, or the bed has lowered a little. $\endgroup$
    – CrossRoads
    Commented Sep 7, 2019 at 1:38
  • $\begingroup$ @Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 I did not, however after trying to do so I found lowering it made things worse, and lifting it up had no effect until it got high enough to where the extruder just knocked the filament off the bed. $\endgroup$
    – Ultra Gamer
    Commented Sep 7, 2019 at 2:44
  • $\begingroup$ @CrossRoads I didn't change anything, I don't know how that would have happened, but after trying to re-align the bed to a better position it did not help (See my response to Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 for more information on that). I don't know how my nozzle height would have changed, but if it did how do I re-calibrate that? $\endgroup$
    – Ultra Gamer
    Commented Sep 7, 2019 at 2:46
  • $\begingroup$ Please add an image and optionally a link to a video recording for us to see what is actually happening. Is this a nozzle to bed distance problem, or an adhesion problem. Do you use an adhesive agent between bed and filament? $\endgroup$
    – 0scar ♦
    Commented Sep 7, 2019 at 7:43

2 Answers 2

Reset to default
3
$\begingroup$

There are 3 general factors about print adhesion you always have to keep in mind:

  • Have a sufficient surface for the print to stick. A pyramid printed on the tip can't print properly.
  • Check the leveling of your bed occasionally and relevel the bed. By removing prints, one can easily unlevel it over time without noticing it.
  • Clean your print bed from fingerprints and grease every so often. Fats are good separators between the print and the bed. Getting them off with Isopropyl alcohol or other solvents can restore print surfaces in an instant.

In this specific case, there are some hints that make the general things less of an issue though: Old sliced items print fine, newer not. This hints that you changed something in the print settings. Among the settings that are good for adhesion, check your old G-code for the following three:

  • Bed temperature. I use 60 °C bed temperature for PLA and have good results on bed adhesion. Others print with 50 °C. However, going too low can make the plastic not stick well anymore.
  • Extrusion temperature. When the plastic extrudes, it has to be molten enough to push out enough and cold enough to solidify within moments and stick to the surface of the bed. If it is too hot, it would be dragged along, if it's too cold it doesn't get to stick either. I use 190-200 °C for PLA.
  • The first layer height might be different. I usually use 0.2 mm for this setting, no matter what the actual layer height is, and get good adhesion and not too much trouble with tiny unevenness.
  • The reason might be a mechanical issue, in that the Z-endstops (in an Anycubic i3, there are two, hidden in the frame sides) might have bent, moved or misaligned over time. Check its positioning. If the mount is broken, there are replacement part designs.
Improve this answer
$\endgroup$
8
  • $\begingroup$ 1. This is nothing new, I follow that all the time and I guarantee that's not the problem. 2. I've tried that already as noted in my original post 3. Ok, I can try that, I don't think it would happen so suddenly and everywhere on the bed at once though. These are good general tips, and I will be looking into them more to see the cause but I'm 99% sure that's not the problem due to it being so sudden, what other reasons do you know of? $\endgroup$
    – Ultra Gamer
    Commented Sep 8, 2019 at 7:14
  • $\begingroup$ @UltraGamer With painters tape, it can be a problem that the tape is slick.The last addition makes me thinkng though... $\endgroup$
    – Trish
    Commented Sep 8, 2019 at 7:51
  • $\begingroup$ I'm not using painters tape though, because the bed is glass, usually, there are no problems with it sticking to the bed at all. You did add another 3 reasons though, I've checked the first 2 and they are fine, I don't think I changed any slicer settings but I am going to try to reset it to see if that improves it. What is Z-endstop though and how can I re-position it? $\endgroup$
    – Ultra Gamer
    Commented Sep 8, 2019 at 18:53
  • $\begingroup$ @UltraGamer the z endstop is the physical limit switch that triggers "here is Z=0" $\endgroup$
    – Trish
    Commented Sep 8, 2019 at 19:09
  • $\begingroup$ Where is that located on the printer? $\endgroup$
    – Ultra Gamer
    Commented Sep 8, 2019 at 19:11
0
$\begingroup$

This seems like a long-shot, but I've noticed at this time of year many 3D prints fail. We noticed 4 printers all went dead and had massive non-stick issues last year about this time. Turns out it was mostly around changes in temperature and humidity - the outside temperature changed inside AC settings/wind-flow, etc.

So, you might think through some of the meta-causes of where the printer is, and if temp/air/humidity might be just enough chaos to not make the material stick. Right in September, I start putting a light layer of glue down on the glass bed under each print or increasing the use of rafts...

Improve this answer
$\endgroup$
3
  • $\begingroup$ Ok, That could be it considering it is in the garage, Do you have any idea why most of the older sliced models work though? $\endgroup$
    – Ultra Gamer
    Commented Sep 9, 2019 at 0:47
  • $\begingroup$ I’ve found that when it’s colder outside I slow down my print speed, especially on the first few layers. Maybe those older slicers had lower speeds? $\endgroup$
    – JayCrossler
    Commented Sep 10, 2019 at 1:04
  • $\begingroup$ After looking at the gcode, nothing appears to have changed on the speed side, anything else? $\endgroup$
    – Ultra Gamer
    Commented Sep 10, 2019 at 16:15

You must log in to answer this question.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged .