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Using the following:

  • Printer : Ender 3 PRO - 2019 1.1.4 non-silent board
  • Firmware : Official Creality Ender 3 PRO - BLTouch version
  • Bed : Original Creality Glass Bed
  • Nozzle : Original Stock - there isn't any upgrade
  • Filament : Porima PLA Red
  • Hotend : 210 °C
  • Bed : 60 °C
  • BLTouch : Official Creality V3.1 Smart
  • Z Offset : -3.50 mm which keeps nozzle's distance as 0.2 mm from bed while printing first layers
  • Test Model : Ender 3 Damping Feets 100 % infill - 105 % flow rate - 60 mm/s printing speed

This morning I realized that my nozzle is scraping to bed while it's printing left side to the table, I'm using a BLTouch and this shouldn't be happening right?

Any ideas what could cause this and how I can fix it?

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  • $\begingroup$ that bed is extremely unlevel... $\endgroup$ – Trish Nov 20 '20 at 14:36
  • $\begingroup$ i'm aware of that but that is the purpose of bltouch right? $\endgroup$ – Sheshman Nov 20 '20 at 16:34
  • $\begingroup$ not really: you need to level your bed, then Mesh Bed Leveling G29 can help to mitigate unevenness. But that bed is for the big part not level to the X-axis at all. $\endgroup$ – Trish Nov 20 '20 at 16:58
  • $\begingroup$ @Trish oh i see now, i thought bltouch can set nozzle's height on no matter how your bed is wrong, let me try after level my bed manually. $\endgroup$ – Sheshman Nov 20 '20 at 17:17
  • $\begingroup$ @Trish leveled my bed with old way (using piece of A4 paper) and started to print same model, seems like skirt and first layers are much better (not perfect but i'll get there), excuse my ignorance but the thing that i don't understand is if bltouch couldn't save us from leveling bed manually, then why we are paying for it? if i need to level my bed manually in time, why i need to use bltouch anyway, i'm accepting that it has limitations but it should cover you anyway. $\endgroup$ – Sheshman Nov 20 '20 at 17:55
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This left bed side issue could be caused by the poor design of the Ender 3 (portal printer single side Z lead screw and counter rolling guide post) in conjunction with the way the bed is probed and the hysteresis of the gantry. The second photo issue could well a result of an imperfection of the bed, a local bump, which cannot be filtered out with insufficient probing points or the firmware bed leveling option.

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  • $\begingroup$ Thanks for your suggestion, i'm simply removing magnetic pad and putting glass bed on to table, but when i do that i realised there are some white dots like dust which stoned by the heat of the bed, so i've tried to remove by my hand but they were so solid and hard to remove, i thought glass bed is heavy & solid, it's not like magnetic pad so it can not make bumps. Are those little dust balls could cause this kind of thing? $\endgroup$ – Sheshman Nov 20 '20 at 11:36
  • $\begingroup$ second thought : should i replace the table with a new one?. Becuase i bought this printer as second hand(i can't afford a brand new one), the store was using this printer as demo printer to show customers what ender 3 pro can capable of. $\endgroup$ – Sheshman Nov 20 '20 at 11:38
  • $\begingroup$ @Sheshman no, you need to swap your firmware to one with more probing points. $\endgroup$ – Trish Nov 20 '20 at 14:38
  • $\begingroup$ @Trish what is your choice? Marlin or TH3D? $\endgroup$ – Sheshman Nov 20 '20 at 16:35
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    $\begingroup$ TH3D is a modified version of Marlin, note that this is created for people that don't want to go through the whole configuration; it centralized most options by choosing a few options. Nite that this is not always working when you see some questions raised here. If your software configuration/compiling skills are not great or you don't want to know the fine details you are best to use TH3D. $\endgroup$ – 0scar Nov 20 '20 at 19:10

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