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This is a specific model for a specific reason. It's shaped like a cylinder and has a recessed bottom. I'm using a Flashforge Adventurer 3 with Flashforge filament. I tried Sunlu silver/silk PLA+ but my Flashforge didn't like it, so I took the recommendation to use Flashforge filament. It worked just fine, but when I put water in it, it has leaks.

I was printing at 210 with a plate temp at 50. Like I stated, I was excited except for the fact that it's not watertight.

Since I'm new at this process, my first thought was there must be a food grade spray, or close to food grade, that could seal the model after I touch it up.

Does anyone know if there is one available? Or are there settings that I need to address?

Thanks in advance for any comments.enter image description here

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  • $\begingroup$ Plastic coating sprays are a thing, though probably far from food safe. $\endgroup$ – Ezra Dec 12 '20 at 15:30
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There are several ways to ensure water tightness:

Thicker walls

I have experienced that 3 walls and 5 tops/bottoms with an outer shell of Concentric while the core is lines become watertight enough that leakage is almost none.

Lacquer

The oldest known method to seal a piece of porous material is a lacquer, followed by glaze. Glazes require to be burned at some thousand degrees, so are out, but lacquers are simple and easy. Basic clear acrylic lacquer can be used to seep into all the cracks and crannies and then harden out. It's easy to apply and cheap from home depot. Polyurethane lacquers also work. If you look to use it for food, ask if the lacquer is food rated in home depot.

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  • $\begingroup$ Thanks so much for your input. One more quick question, should I use acrylic or polyurethane? $\endgroup$ – Bro. Paul Dec 13 '20 at 17:24
  • $\begingroup$ @Bro.Paul both are good, but I prefer acrylic. $\endgroup$ – Trish Dec 13 '20 at 20:44
  • $\begingroup$ Thanks Trish. The project tests continue. $\endgroup$ – Bro. Paul Dec 14 '20 at 23:43

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