I searched online, and found two YouTubers who shared their Ender 3 v2 printer profiles, and I've been having more or less better success with theirs than mine, possibly because I was basing mine off the Ender 3, and they were basing theirs off the Ender 3 Pro...

Would anyone here have the settings for the Ender 3 v2 for Cura, that's the printer definition, with the measurements, offsets, etc. and also maybe a few print profiles, one of my biggest problems is stringing, lots of my prints have stringing, and the new profiles helped with that, but I'd like to have some more, and also a solid baseline from which to build, and learn, and try to figure out what I'm doing wrong...

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    $\begingroup$ Ender3, Ender3v2 and Ender3Pro have the same base settings. The variance is more stiffening and different heatbeds.... $\endgroup$
    – Trish
    Dec 9, 2020 at 10:51
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    $\begingroup$ Since you mention problems with stringing specifically, it might be good to ask a question about that showing the exact prints you're getting it on. It could be related to the wrong retraction settings I mentioned in my answer, or something else. $\endgroup$ Dec 11, 2020 at 19:39
  • $\begingroup$ Since I found this board, and since people here seem pretty nice, helpful, and it doesn't seem overcrowded, I think I will do just that... Seems like a nice place to get help, and help out 😊 I don't have any on my desk right now, and it's not as bad with the settings I found from some YouTubers, but when I have another go at printing that particular part, I'll post the result, and my settings, see if anyone can help... 😀 $\endgroup$ Dec 13, 2020 at 8:30

1 Answer 1


Use the profile for any Ender 3 model, or better yet just start from scratch and put in the important properties that actually vary per machine - bed size, temperatures needed, etc.

Cura profiles for specific printers, especially the ones Youtubers are promoting, are almost always misguided if not outright wrong. They're a mix something like 5-10% settings that are actually physical characteristics of the machine, and another 5-10% dubious settings that are tradeoffs that might help avoid common problems for the machine at the expense of making other (often worse) problems, and the remaining 80-90% personal preferences of the person who made the profile. For instance, looking at Cura's base Creality profile:

  • Machine max accelerations are all wrong, at 500 mm/s². The machine can actually handle at least 3000 mm/s², and unless you've updated firmware to have Linear Advance, increasing acceleration is the only way to avoid inconsistent extrusion.

  • Z speed limit and acceleration are very low. This makes seam more severe and has no benefit.

  • Print speeds are random and differ per type (outer wall, inner wall, skin, infill, etc.) which doesn't work right on a bowden machine without Linear Advance firmware.

  • Z seam type is overridden. This is purely personal preference and has nothing to do with the type of printer.

  • Gaps filling settings are overridden. Same issue.

  • Retraction settings are botched, especially increase of window for max retraction count from 4.5 mm (default) to 10 mm, which will cause severe omission of retractions (thus stringing, oozing, and failed adhesion) in any print with thin layers and fine detail.

  • Enabling skirt. This is purely preference.

  • Lots of support settings. What's needed here is 90% of a function of the object you're printing and 10% a function of your machine's properties and there's no indication that the settings in the profile have anything to do with properties of Creality machines.

Etc. etc. etc. Most of the above dubious/wrong stuff was added fairly recently in Cura, taken from the "Creawsome" profile popular on Youtube and Reddit. Before that they had a more minimal profile that at least wasn't wrong.

The actual properties you need to set in the profile for your particular machine are:

  • Bed size/print volume
  • Heated bed
  • Filament diameter
  • Nozzle size
  • Retraction length (depends on hotend and extruder type, bowden tube length if bowden)
  • Retraction speeds (depends on extruder capability & friction in path, etc.)
  • Fan speeds (depends on how powerful your fan is)

Setting max speeds and accelerations is also useful to get more accurate print time predictions, but not necessary.

  • $\begingroup$ the 3000 m/s² are handleable but there are several points that the less stiff versions can encounter resonance. $\endgroup$
    – Trish
    Dec 12, 2020 at 12:08
  • $\begingroup$ You see that's already quite helpful, most print settings have a max speed of 50 mm/s or something like that, but the machine is pretty stiff I think. I received a new belt for the print head, and after I change it, I'll definitely up the speed. Speaking of, what kind of acceleration control, and what kind of jerk control do you have at those speeds? And what about Z and extruder speeds? And do you have any recommendation for the Z axis lead screw lube? I used a thin bearing I have from my skateboard, but I also have synthetic grease, and could get something else that might help... $\endgroup$ Dec 13, 2020 at 8:36

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