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I have the Creality CR-10S. I replaced the glass it originally came with as it was warped and I wasn't getting any material out on 2 of the sides.

I switched to a PEI sheet and got the same results after only a few prints.

I then switched to a mirror I had cut previously, and it worked for maybe 2 days. I scrapped a print off that warped, and then the leveling was off on that. My gantry is level, my beds aren't warped, I'm leveling it to allow a standard piece of paper to have friction by the head. It's either to close and no filament is extruded or it doesn't stick at all and drags filament everywhere. If I can get good extrusion on one side, it's horrible off on the other or all corners.

Note that I have checked my gantry and it is straight as well and my the bed. Not sure what issues I have left.

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  • $\begingroup$ Hi, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Have you checked the straightness of the bed with the edge of a straight (metal) ruler? If that is completely straight, you need to find the problem in the gantry. Please check. and report by edit of the question if the bed is straight. $\endgroup$ – 0scar Mar 11 at 6:32
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    $\begingroup$ Maybe you did create a mesh in printer's EEPROM memory with a previous warped bed, and now still using these settings unconsiously? $\endgroup$ – octopus8 Mar 11 at 8:10
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    $\begingroup$ Maybe you can post an image of a leveling print, e.g. this cross hair, you get a bonus to see if it prints in the center also! $\endgroup$ – 0scar Mar 12 at 9:43
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Be sure that you have no previous bed meshes saved and automatically applied: use the commands M502, M500.

Once you have done that, try this technique:

It's about using a ruler to detect areas which are lower, and then use stickers below the glass to thicken those areas only, resulting in a much flatter surface.

If you don't want to use the blue tape (which will worsen the heat transfer, but not so much after all) you could use 0.3 mm silicone thermal tape, which is more heat conductive but it's also quite thicker than blue tape.

This other alternative consists of flattening the plate itself, but it's inevitably performed when cold, while the tape technique above can be performed at the desired temperature (since the warping may not be constant).

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  • $\begingroup$ The downside is the extra layer of air between the heated bed and the glass. Doesn't this prevent effective heat transfer? $\endgroup$ – 0scar Mar 12 at 14:26
  • $\begingroup$ @0scar well it's tape not air, but surely there is something in between. I update the answer. It's a matter of priority. $\endgroup$ – FarO Mar 12 at 15:26
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    $\begingroup$ If you insert tape, although very thin, it will create gaps on either side of the tape, air is a good insulator, hence my concerns. :-) $\endgroup$ – 0scar Mar 12 at 15:46
  • $\begingroup$ What should the mesh look like and how do I access them to see? $\endgroup$ – Jester0153 Mar 13 at 10:14
  • $\begingroup$ @0scar it is true but I think it won't matter. I found in YouTube cases where small squares of silicone thermal pads were used at corners and center. They left way bigger gaps and still it didn't matter much. $\endgroup$ – FarO Mar 13 at 18:12

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