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I have an Ender 3 Pro with a magnetic bed. Recently, I've come across an issue I've never had before. The printer bed is higher on the front and back edges, along the Y-axis. It's okay in the middle of the bed from left to the right, but when I start moving the Y-axis nozzle gets closer to the bed. I've drawn a picture of the close areas approximately. Red areas are the areas in which the nozzle starts touching the bed.

Red areas are the areas which nozzle starts touching the bed.

I'm not used to fixing problems on my printer, but I tried loosening side screws to check bends on extrusions. I've tried it several times but it didn't solve the problem. Then I've removed the bed to tighten the screws on the part moving on the Y-axis. It didn't work either. I'm not sure if I did things correctly but I assume that I did. I also think that the bed may be warped, but I'm not sure because it wasn't not a long time ago. What could cause this problem?

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  • $\begingroup$ Welcome to 3D Printing Stack Exchange! Please be sure to take the tour and read over the FAQ to better understand how Stack Exchange sites work -- but this is a pretty good first question! $\endgroup$
    – Zeiss Ikon
    Jun 23 at 17:12
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A bend in the frame extrusion won't affect the bed this way on an Ender 3 -- the bed rides on a carriage with (IIRC) four V-groove wheels, similar to the Z and X axis carriages. If your bed is the same front and back, but that's higher (relative to the nozzle) than the middle, it's because the bed itself has a curve. This is more common (in my experience) with the right and left edges high relative to the middle, but the mechanism is the same.

First, preheat the bed and let it stay hot for ten minutes or longer, then check again. Mine flattens out almost completely when the temperature is fully equalized; if this does the trick, you'll just need to remember to preheat the bed several minutes before starting each print.

If that doesn't fix the problem, then either you'll need to shim up the center of the bed by an appropriate amount (tissue paper or typing paper work, though they tend to get thinner over time), or you'll need to install a rigid build surface (the Creality polymer coated glass one costs barely more than a spool of basic filament). Do be aware that a glass build plate will raise your build surface, and may require adjusting the Z-stop to prevent dragging the nozzle even with the adjusting springs fully compressed.

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