This is filament leakage. It's generally due to the nozzle and heat break not being correctly tightened against each other (if you've ever disassembled or upgraded the hotend you'd have needed to do this).
Presuming that you can heat the hotend and (carefully -- extrusion temperature is close to that of a medium-hot oven!), peel off most of the mess, and get it disassembled, you should then be able to finish cleaning up and correctly reassemble.
You need to install the heat break into the heat block, heat to 20 °C or so above your highest printing temperature, then tighten the nozzle against the heat break. If the nozzle bottoms against the heat block before coming tight, you'll need to back it out, screw the heat break in another turn or two, and tighten the nozzle again. Let everything cool, then reheat and retighten the nozzle.
N.B. Do NOT use teflon tape, pipe dope, or anything else on the threads of either nozzle or heat break: these threads need to have metal to metal contact for heat transfer, and the seal is between the nozzle face and heat break face, not the threads in any case.
After everything is cooled again, you can finish reassembling the heat sink (if you had it off during the nozzle installation), silicone sock (which should replace the kapton taped insulation wadding your photo shows), shroud and fan -- and you should then find you've stopped the melted filament leaking around the heat break threads as in your photo.
And no parts needed!