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I've recently set up my Snapmaker 2.0 A350 again after moving apartments. I started by calibrating it. There was a couple of issues I'm familiar with that I could solve but one I don't know what to do about.

The corners of my CaliCat are wavy, the best I can describe them.

Printed model of CaliCat with wavy sections throughout the print

I'm using Cura as my slicer and the Snapmaker's filament. I know they're not good but I got it with the printer and want to finish it on less important jobs. My thermometer for the nozzle might be wrong, I was getting "elephant's foot" and drags marks in the bottom layer until I lowered the temperature to 180 °C. If I lower it to 175-170 °C, the prints fail. The rest of the settings are on default from Generic PLA and I'm using the Snapmaker profile that Cura came with.

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    $\begingroup$ It looks like you might have loose belts, and/or Z wobble from problems with a lead screw or how it's mounted. I'm not familiar with your printer so I'm not sure how plausible those are. $\endgroup$ Sep 7 at 18:03
  • $\begingroup$ asset.conrad.com/media10/isa/160267/c1/-/sv/002350349PI00/… This is how it looks. $\endgroup$
    – Cousken
    Sep 7 at 18:13
  • $\begingroup$ What is the Z motion system based on? I can't really tell from the picture. Are there lead screws behind the vertical beams or belts or what? $\endgroup$ Sep 7 at 19:49
  • $\begingroup$ Sadly i don't know but i will look into it and get back to you. The beams have a metal sheet to protect their insides from dust as the machine has an interchangable tool head , with the alternatives doing laser cutting and CNC. $\endgroup$
    – Cousken
    Sep 7 at 19:50
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    $\begingroup$ The defect looks like Z wobble, this can be caused by the lead screw, check the internal guide rails and rollers, see this video for assembly/disassembly. $\endgroup$
    – 0scar
    Sep 7 at 20:33
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It's worth measuring your heater-block and bed temperatures to verify that they are actually as far off as you believe.

  1. The least expensive, but most difficult way is to use the thermocouple on a multimeter that can measure temperature.

  2. Easier is to use a single point pyrometer for a non-contact measurement.

  3. The easiest, but most expensive way to measure the temperatures, is to use a thermal imager that will tell you the highest temperature within the image.

Note: This is not the final answer, but too much for a comment. Please do not let this discourage posting a final answer.

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    $\begingroup$ This is possible, but I would not expect such a severe effect from temperature variation unless the measurements are way off, to the point that it's underextruding from the temperature falling so low. $\endgroup$ Sep 8 at 12:55
  • $\begingroup$ @GitHub True, but tweaking the temperature if it's not off just complicates finding the problem. I put this as an answer because it is too long for a comment, and ill formatted in a comment. I don't expect it to be the final answer. $\endgroup$
    – Perry Webb
    Sep 8 at 13:04

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