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Backstory: Like quite a lot of people here, I'm having problems with parts adhering to the build plate of a resin printer. I've tried everything that I can think of: cleaning & re-sanding the buildplate at 80 grit, levelling the plate with and without a sheet of paper between the plate and LCD, warm resin, and silicone spray on the FEP.


In the answer to this question, Michael Wooten says:

PRO TIP to improve bed adhesion: apply a thin layer of resin to the build platform before you start to print. I have not any failed prints after I started coating the plate with resin.

I was wondering if there was any clarification on this layer of resin:

  • Should it be cured, partially cured, or left alone?
  • How thick should it be?

Also, is there any known methodology? If I paint some resin onto the build plate and cure with a UV lamp, I worry that the layer won't be particularly flat. I thought about using the "cleaning" function on the printer to shine UV light through, but it would also cure area between the edge of the build plate and the tank.

Any tips on this exact method of making prints stick to the plate would be greatly appreciated!


Update:

I tried again, and it still didn't work.

I left a thin film of resin on the build plate from the previous failed print, and cured it for a minute or two until it felt tacky. The resin was still warm from last print, so I ran again (after removing the failed pancakes of course) and after a few hours I could see that nothing had printed this time either. The irritating bit is that the pancakes slide off the FEP pretty easily!

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  • $\begingroup$ As I understand Michael, that is to ensure there is no air bubble on the bed. $\endgroup$
    – Trish
    Oct 19 at 9:39
  • $\begingroup$ @Trish Oh, I was hoping it'd improve adhesion :( $\endgroup$ Oct 19 at 9:56
  • $\begingroup$ An air bubble would be no adhesion at all $\endgroup$
    – Trish
    Oct 19 at 9:58
  • $\begingroup$ @Trish yes, of course. I don't think air bubbles are a problem for me though? Some bubbles bloop out the side when the plate comes down, rises a bit, then goes down again. It's a Creality Halot One if that helps. $\endgroup$ Oct 19 at 10:20
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The whole reason to pre-coat the plate with liquid resin is to ensure, that no air bubbles are left under it and prevent contact of the plate to the resin.

A layer of cured resin throws off your 0.

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  • $\begingroup$ Is there a way of telling if air bubbles are causing the issue I'm seeing? $\endgroup$ Oct 19 at 13:41
  • $\begingroup$ a bubble would be a void if you only cure a single layer on all the bed $\endgroup$
    – Trish
    Oct 19 at 13:54
  • $\begingroup$ I've accepted this answer as it answers the question I asked. It didn't solve the problem of the prints not working because I was asking the wrong question :) $\endgroup$ Oct 21 at 9:27
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According to Uncle Jessy (see Youtube channel), you simply need to pour some liquid resin over the build plate and then leave it for a couple of minutes for the worst to drip off. No

He also recommends that the resin should be kept at a warm room temperature and that the bottle be thoroughly shaken before pouring it onto the build plate or into the resin vat.

He also recommends that resin should not be left to sit in the vat for more than a couple of days as it can settle and separate.

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