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I am new to 3D printing and have an Ender 5 Pro.

I have manually leveled the bed by setting the nozzle gap to 0.1 mm (via feeler gauges) and then printing a calibration print and manually adjusting the bed height as it prints. I can get perfect calibration prints using both a glass bed and a PEI bed, printing with a bed temp of 75 °C and a nozzle temp of 210 °C:

enter image description here

I’m now trying various other prints without success, as the print doesn’t adhere. See this example of a 1 mm thick bookmark, which I am printing with a brim to try and help :

enter image description here

I’m not sure what the experts here can ascertain from this failed print without all the slicing parameters. I’m a bit suspicious that the print appears to clump and I’m wondering if the soft extruded material is sticking to the PLA already laid down and if so, if I can address that?

I actually seemed to have more success with the original flexible bed with several successful prints.

The G-code for the calibration target: https://pastebin.com/Brc8R8Cs

and for the bookmark: https://pastebin.com/9AXaqiMw

I had to remove a lot of the G-code for the bookmark due to its size, so hopefully I've left the important stuff in.

I started printing by loading the models in CURA, slicing and exporting to an SD card. I didn't;t create a new project for each print and it took me a while to realise I was losing the slicing parameters I'd used each time, making it difficult or impossible to go back and just change one set of parms. I'm now creating a separate project, so hopefully from now on I can just tweak one or 2 parms.

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    $\begingroup$ Share links in comment to both the G-codes to see if we can see something interesting, if so, we'll paste it in the question, else we mention that there is nothing to see and delete the comments. You could use e.g. PasteBin website. $\endgroup$
    – 0scar
    Oct 19 at 11:26
  • $\begingroup$ Are you slicing with the exact same parameters? $\endgroup$ Oct 19 at 11:39
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    $\begingroup$ Are you using any adhesives, i.e. glue stick, blue tape, hair spray? I personally have found my calibration prints to stick without problem but actual model prints will necessitate using an adhesive. $\endgroup$
    – agarza
    Oct 19 at 16:31
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    $\begingroup$ In the images the initial z-height looks to high. The extrusions don't look pressed down and aren't sticking together. $\endgroup$
    – Perry Webb
    Oct 19 at 17:42
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    $\begingroup$ I've looked into the files to conclude both print at the same heights. What I cannot see is the print speed of your product (that part is cut out), it might be too high for the filament to adhere properly. Thanks for sharing the codes! $\endgroup$
    – 0scar
    Oct 20 at 16:16
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Well I got a perfect print as follows:

  1. Loaded the .stl file.
  2. Set Cura to use the 'Good' profile downloaded from CHEPCLUB (recommended by a friend).
  3. Used Pritt-stick Scotch (glue stick) on the bed.

I was quite loath to use glue stick, as I thought heated beds etc didn't need it, but if that's what it takes then...

I even bought an enclosure a few days ago as the room the printer was in if fairly cool.

I'll try the exact same print without the glue and see if that works but at least I know know that I can get a perfect print and that a good calibration print isn't the be-all and end-all.

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    $\begingroup$ Pritt (Henkel) sticks are not made (since 2000) of the ingredients (PVP) that are known to help in adhesion: "Known materials to be used for glue sticks are PVA or PVP. However, the Henkel company is as of 2000 not using PVP in Pritt anymore but makes use of natural starch." $\endgroup$
    – 0scar
    Oct 20 at 16:21
  • $\begingroup$ @0scar Turns out I’m actually using a Scotch glue stick $\endgroup$
    – Steve Ives
    Oct 20 at 19:37
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    $\begingroup$ If I absolutely need adhesion... I use Ponal Express, which is a white wood glue containing PVA. $\endgroup$
    – Trish
    Oct 21 at 13:12
  • $\begingroup$ So is the 'glue not needed with a heated bed' thing a myth, or is it down to luck/filament/bed/phase of the Moon etc? $\endgroup$
    – Steve Ives
    Oct 22 at 15:20
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First, heat the bed to printing temperature, let it "soak" for a few minutes, and then re-do your bed levelling.

Thermal expansion can mess with the level.

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    $\begingroup$ I'm pretty sure the bed was hot as a perfect calibration print was obtained after several attempts, so the heating had been on for 15-20 minutes. The one in the photo was one from 'cold' i.e. switch the printer on and immediately do the print, so I don't think that's an issue in this case. $\endgroup$
    – Steve Ives
    Oct 19 at 18:33
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    $\begingroup$ Upvoted for the suggestion although it wasn't the cause in this case. $\endgroup$
    – Steve Ives
    Oct 23 at 10:16
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For a good adhesion the print bed should be free of any oil or fat. Wipe the print bed with pure alcohol just befor the start of printing.

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  • $\begingroup$ And what about dust? $\endgroup$
    – 0scar
    Oct 30 at 12:27
  • $\begingroup$ Thanks Uwe - I'm getting reliable adhesion at the moment with a layer of glue on the bed but part of me thinks this shouldn't be necessary. I'm wary of changing what works, but I can always re-apply glue, so this weekend I'll thoroughly clean and degrease the glass bed and see how that goes. $\endgroup$
    – Steve Ives
    Nov 5 at 9:48

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