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This might be a dumb question, but can a 60 watt heater be used on a 40 watt unit?

Simply put, I was wrong in thinking that more power was simply stuffed into the same dimensions.

It extends about 5 millimeters beyond my heating block. Can it be used in general or will it lead to some consequences?

Photo showing heating element protruding from heater block

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I'd expect the heater sticking out as pictured to cause problems -- the exposed part of the heater will tend to overheat (it's not conducting heat away into the heat block) and isn't protected by the thermistor and software PID acting as a smart thermostat.

It might be possible to install the heater in a more centered position, so less of it protrudes beyond the block, but this is likely to leave the wire end sticking out instead. I'd have to recommend either getting the correct heater, or upgrading your entire hot end to accommodate the larger heater (which involves also verifying the driver circuitry on your control board can handle 50% higher current, resetting your nozzle offsets so you don't print off the build surface on prints that run close to Ymin, and likely modifying or replacing your part cooling fan and/or its shroud).

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Can a 60 W heater be used on a 40 W unit?

Yes, you can, I used various heater cartridges with different powers ranging from 40-80 W.

Where you need to look out for is that heating is not too fast that you get overshoots such that it triggers alarms, see PID tuning 50 W cartridge in Marlin. It is best to PID tune the hotend heater once you replaced it with a new cartridge.

It extends about 5 millimeters beyond my heating block. Can it be used in general or will it lead to some consequences?

Try to center it better, do note that the heat is produced by a wound resistor wire, it usually doesn't extend all the way to the end of the heater cartridge.

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Image taken from Vsec Temperature Sensor Manufacturer

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  • $\begingroup$ I just wanted to come up with an "extension" for the heating block, I have a small supply of a copper bus. It reminds me of orc technology from the w40k universe. $\endgroup$ Commented Feb 1, 2022 at 14:46
  • $\begingroup$ Thanks for your reply. The scheme is interesting, according to it it turns out that the active zone will be 95% inside the block. $\endgroup$ Commented Feb 9, 2022 at 15:37
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One simple consequence is that you're going to have a hard time finding a sock that fits properly. If you cut one, or have one that has a hole where the heater protrudes, it will physically fit but then not do its job preventing radiative/convective heat loss and transfer to your printed part, or preventing stray material from sticking to the heater. You could make a custom one with molded RTV silicone, of course.

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    $\begingroup$ I'm wondering if it's possible to make a homemade sock out of caulk used for fireplaces, for example? $\endgroup$ Commented Feb 9, 2022 at 15:38
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    $\begingroup$ @ОлегАнатольевич: Yes, it is, but you want RTV silicone like automotive "gasket maker", and it's a pain to get it to cure and release. I've been making nozzle socks this way (prevents gunk from sticking to nozzle and prevents heat loss to fans and transfer to part). $\endgroup$ Commented Feb 9, 2022 at 16:52

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