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Recently I broke the threads inside the heatblock of my CR-6 SE by tightening the nozzle too much (it seemed not deep enough). No problem - bought a new hotend extruder kit for around 35 euros.

I put everything back together and it worked for some time. But then the real problem started - PLA is squeezing out of the heatblock below (probably through the threads of the nozzle) and above (on the metal tube). I'm pretty sure that the PTFE tube was deep enough in the hotend and the nozzle was placed correctly.

enter image description here enter image description here

That's especially bad as it clogs the screws fixing the thermal sensor and heating element in position as well as the ones connecting the heatblock to the heatsink (red) (the 4 screw holes around the nozzle on picture 2).

I managed to remove the screws of the thermal sensor and heating element, but I'm unable to remove the elements themself from the latest heatblock. I'm also unable to remove the metal tube (throat?) screwed into the heatblocks of the old and the current one, as I have nothing to grap to.

enter image description here

I already have original Creality replacement blocks, but no idea how to continue.

Questions

  1. Is there a chance to remove the metal tubes?
  2. Are there other ideas how to resolve the problem without buying a new hotend-kit?

Any help is appreciated!

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  • $\begingroup$ see edited answer $\endgroup$
    – Perry Webb
    May 23 at 18:09

1 Answer 1

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It appears that you tightened the nozzle up against the heater block. You want the nozzle to tighten and form a seal with the heat break. Otherwise material with seep between the heater block and heat break. Thus, material comes out the top of the heater block. You want to tighten the nozzle against the heat break at your highest operating temperature of the hot end. The following is the full procedure. Once you have plastic material in the threads, you will need to heat up the heater block to remove or install threaded parts in the heater block.

How to replace the nozzle in my hotend assembly?

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  • $\begingroup$ Thank you for the hint. I never had issues with the nozzle and leakage - maybe I screwed the nozzle deeper into the block. Last time by doing so I damaged the threads in the block so that little metal flaks fell out the block after removing the nozzle. But there is still the question how to remove the heatbrake - any ideas? $\endgroup$
    – nioerd
    May 25 at 8:48
  • $\begingroup$ Usually, you need to heat up the heat block so that the plastic in the threads is liquid instead of a solid gluing the heat break to the heat block. $\endgroup$
    – Perry Webb
    Jun 22 at 22:23
  • $\begingroup$ Ok - I will try heating up the block. But how should I turn the round heatbreak? I tried with a pipe wrench but nothing moved at all. Heating up the loose block should not be a problem, but working on the hot block is difficult because of the short cables. Any hints here? $\endgroup$
    – nioerd
    Jun 25 at 18:12
  • $\begingroup$ Avoid grabbing the threads with a wrench. The neck on the heat break is easy to break. You shouldn't need to turn it hard. You need the plastic to be liquid. $\endgroup$
    – Perry Webb
    Jun 25 at 21:43

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