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When I am printing objects that have a lot of surface area on the first layer parts of that layer will rise up causing there to be gaps in the first layer. Here are two pictures. The first one was printing with a raft and the second one was without a raft.RaftNo Raft I am printing on 3M Painters tape, extruder temperature at 200, bed temperature at 60. I am using Hatchbox PLA Filiment.

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  • $\begingroup$ Possible duplicate of Can't get print to stick, no matter what I try $\endgroup$ – Tom van der Zanden Mar 5 '17 at 21:18
  • $\begingroup$ I am able to get the print to stick onto the bed but it peals up during the infill. The rafts will print perfect, but the middle of the first layer is the problem $\endgroup$ – Loanb222 Mar 5 '17 at 22:15
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    $\begingroup$ Still, it looks like you are simply too far from the bed - albeit slightly closer than in the potential duplicate question. $\endgroup$ – Tom van der Zanden Mar 6 '17 at 6:54
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    $\begingroup$ Too high a print speed for the infill. $\endgroup$ – Sean Houlihane Mar 6 '17 at 7:51
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You got a few things happening. First that temp seems low. I am printing PLA at 215.. but there are a lot of factors. Start with a simple calibration thin wall test. Which is just a wall, no body.

From there your bed could be closer. Maybe. I don't think that's really the issue. Slower speed and heat will make more of a difference. That said. I take a piece of paper and calibrate it so there just a little, but not too much, friction.

Make sure you are printing at 30% speed for first layer.

Last use a glue stick.

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Do things in this order

1) Make sure your bed surface is appropriate. (PET tape, or elmers glue on glass. must be applied every 3 to 4 prints in used area)

2)Make sure extruder temperature is not too low or too high. Generally I'll start at the minimum recommended manufacturer's range for your specific filament + 5 degrees. Then bed temp around 55c to 60c.

3) Your bed calibration might be off. Bed calibration should be performed at standard operating temperatures. I.e. turn everything on as if you are about to print and wait to heat up and then make sure your nozzle is almost touching your bed surface (however not actually touching. Alternatively you can use a normal sheet of paper and test that way.

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  1. Too far from the surface for the first layer. Filament doesn't look flat enough
  2. Possible slight under-extrusion (should be verified after fixing first issue)
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In contrast to the other suggestions here, I would like you to try to slightly increase the distance from the bed.

The logic here is that the "thin walls" you are seeing during the first layer is is due to excessive extrusion as part of a too close bed leveling. The hypothesis is that the excessive plastic will "nudge" the previous laid down plastic, which will loosen it from the bed.

In my experience, this issue only occurs when printing large, connected first layers - situations where the excessive plastic builds up with nowhere to go.

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I am having the same issue. I saw one similar post describe this as "baconing" and said it comes from over extrusion. Looking at the filament coming out I could imagine that if there is too much filament for the given travel speed, then it would buckle up. I tried decreasing the extrusion percentage. The Makerbot slicing program doesn't have a setting for that so I did multiple test prints and raised the filament diameter from the default 1.77 to 1.84 in the end, which is about at 20% decrease in the extruder output. I also slowed the prints speed. Both factors seemed to improve the quality, so over extrusion and speed both seem to be contributing factors, but the problem still hasn't gone away completely. It's happening with white Makerbot brand filament on large layers but not with green Makerbot brand and small layer heights (I haven't yet tried green coarse or white fine). I measured the white filament diameter with calipers and it is the proper 1.75mm, I'm just forcing it to extrude less by putting 1.84mm into the slicer settings.

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