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That's my first 3d printer. I'm using Repetier Host as the brand recomends, and set all the configuration as the recommended one. I decided to print one STL file but the result is not the best one. That's what I was trying to print: handle and that's what I've got. cr*p print Here you have a video of the impression. it is a G2S pro rostock mini

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From the video it is very clear there is a major problem with bed adhesion.

It also looks like you are printing on bare metal (aluminium?) which I never saw anybody doing. I must admit I don't know it is impossible or simply very rare, but the first thing I would try in your case is covering the bed in painter's tape and wipe it with some alcohol. This is a surefire method to get good adhesion with PLA, which - from the temperatures shown in the video I assume is what you are using.

If you haven't tried this before, you should know that:

  • some brands of tape work well even without being wiped with alcohol
  • you may need to readjust your nozzle height after having applied the tape

Unless you have already done this, I would also suggest to print some test cubes and possibly some stress tests as your first prints, in order to check that the basics (extrusion rate, dimensional accuracy...) are working correctly, as well as getting familiar with the limitats of your printer.

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    $\begingroup$ Printing on a bare metal surface is perfectly fine. Just keep it clean. But the reason why its not working here is because the bed leveling is terrible. You can see in the video that the nozzle goes from very close to the bed to very far from the bed during the print. Also it is printing WAY to fast for it to adhere properly. Slowing down and doing a proper bed level will most certainly fix this problem :) $\endgroup$ – Granny Feb 12 '18 at 14:28
  • $\begingroup$ @Granny - thank you for the input, from your comment it seems printing on metal is similar to printing on glass (i.e.: unforgiving material). I would argue that for a beginner it is advisable to get printing with the help of some surface prepping: much less frustration while you get to learn the ropes and appreciate what "perfectly level" means. :) $\endgroup$ – mac Feb 12 '18 at 15:57
  • $\begingroup$ @Granny, I agree with you, I still need to do a better calibration. thanks for your help $\endgroup$ – Hola Soy Edu Feliz Navidad Feb 12 '18 at 21:28
  • $\begingroup$ @mac I myself started printing almost 1 year ago, I just sat down for 15 min when i got the printer trying different amount of friction on the a4 paper until i had just the right squish. You don't have to be a advanced "3D printerer" to get the perfect bed leveling. If you know the perfect amount of friction, bed leveling is a easy, no matter what surface you are on :) $\endgroup$ – Granny Feb 13 '18 at 7:33
  • $\begingroup$ @Granny - yes, but I'm not the one having adhesion problems here! ;) $\endgroup$ – mac Feb 13 '18 at 8:12
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I would suggest buying Buildtak, which is a high-quality adhesion surface. This surface is almost guaranteed to make your prints stick to your bed. If Buildtak is outside of your budget, I would suggest using a relatively high grade painters tape combined with either purple gluestick or hairspray applied to your bed before each print.

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  • $\begingroup$ Just buildtak or painting tape will not solve his problem. The main problem here is that his nozzle is too far away from the bed so its not getting good bed adhesion. You can make your prints stick on mostly anything if your bed is properly level. $\endgroup$ – Granny Feb 13 '18 at 13:06
  • $\begingroup$ Than an elongated nozzle should help. You can buy them from Amazon. I don't believe that the name of it is actually "elongated nozzle", but looking up 0.2 mm nozzle and scrolling through, there will be some that are vertically larger than others. That should fix the problem. $\endgroup$ – TECTEC3 Studios Feb 13 '18 at 13:10
  • $\begingroup$ Why would buying a different nozzle be easier than just properly leveling the bed? Or is the printer that he has not equipped with a bed that can be manually leveled? $\endgroup$ – Granny Feb 13 '18 at 13:13
  • $\begingroup$ If the bed is auto-levelling then he needs to buy a nozzle from the supplier of the printer he has so that it will be the same size. If his bed can be levelled, than I don't know why he would even post this question in the first place. $\endgroup$ – TECTEC3 Studios Feb 13 '18 at 14:05
  • $\begingroup$ He posted the question because he is a beginner. And why would he need a new nozzle if he has auto bed leveling? I have auto bed leveling on all my printers of different kinds and they all have a feature where you can calibrate the z-offset. No need to buy a new nozzle at all. $\endgroup$ – Granny Feb 13 '18 at 14:07

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