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I bought an Anet A6-L printer (after some research I discovered that this is not a genuine Anet A6) and assembled it. The first time I plugged it in, the fan (fan 2, I believe) is the only thing that turns on. Also, the LCD screen (LCD2004 5 button display) only had 1 cord, and 1 jack for the cord to plug in on the back of the screen, but 2 openings on the motherboard. The fan turns on for around 30 seconds, then turns off. I have the anet A6 printer, with the V1-5 motherboard. I have everything else (fans, motors, hotbed, power) plugged into the right ports. I haven't plugged in the micro SD (TF) card yet, I turned it on to test it.

I am using a modified part that replaces the windpipe/fan duct (white) and redirects the airflow around it and inwards from a ring around the tip, but that is the only modification I have made. I have not messed with the power supply (other than wiring it in). Same with the motherboard. I tested it also without the modification for the fan duct but it still has the same problem.

Screen Top

Screen bottom

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  • $\begingroup$ Welcome to 3dPrinting.SE! $\endgroup$ – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 Dec 1 '18 at 18:15
  • $\begingroup$ I am having almost the same problem w/ an Anet A6-L,I ordered an A8 but this is what came to me. I am positive it is missing one larger ribbon cable that connects between the 16 pin terminals on the display board & the main board has an empty 10 pin connection point. The instructions supplied via PDF show two ribbon cables side by side but that is clearly not this unit. It came from LOEE in Lexington Ky via Amazon. It came with the Level sensor and no instructions on where to hook it up.Amazon is sending me another unit. If it comes with the cable then fine but if not they are both going back. $\endgroup$ – tim kieffer Dec 29 '18 at 21:31
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This definitely sounds like a problem with your wiring if you have a genuine Anet A6, the genuine A6 comes with a 12864 full graphic display. For sure, you are missing 1 flat ribbon cable (see below). Maybe this is causing the LCD not to light up and the SD card not functioning. As the "fan 2" is working, the board is powered by the power supply (this fan is using the constant power feed of the supply of the board). What you are actually describing as a boot sequence is the actual boot sequence of a printer. Once you power the printer, the fan that is cooling the cold end of the extruder should start spinning and keep spinning while the part cooling fan usually spins up but then powers down to standstill. While this is happening, the LCD should come alive and show the boot screen and finally the printer menu. If your screen is not showing any light, this implies that your screen is either broken, not powered or wrongly connected.

You could connect the printer over USB and control the printer from an external program, e.g. Pronterface, OctoPrint, Repetier-host, etc. and see if the printer works (then you know that the display is broken).

From a search on AliExpress I found that there are auto leveling printers sold with the Anet A6 branding that differ from the standard Anet A6 as written in Chinglish:

Different Auto leveling A6 and Normal A6:

1.The auto-leveling version uses a proximity sensor to detect the aluminum print bed where the normal version of the printer uses a micro-switch to detect the end of travel for the Z-Axis movement (vertical limits).

2.Auto leveling A6-L work with LCD2004 screen, A6 work with LCD12864 screen

The second remark from the quote above suggests that there is a 2004 LCD version that is only used by the Anet A6-L version (probably because they need a free pin for the auto leveling sensor). Such a display only has a single connection socket and needs to be connected to a single socket on the Anet printer board (named "LCD", not "J3")

Note that automatic bed levelling is not magic, and a little more complicated to start with, if you order a printer without an auto bed levelling sensor, you will be able to update to one later. E.g. from here:

It uses the "LED pin" which is an unused pin on the A8 (using the stock 5 button 2004 LCD). That is the third wire counted from below (where the red marker is on the cable). I simply spliced the cable and cut that wire. This will be the servo signal (yellow).


If you have an Anet A6 adapted for auto levelling with a 2004 display

When the LCD does not light up, this could be caused by incorrect placement of the flat cable, be sure to use the correct socket on the printer board and take care of the orientation. Once you have checked this, and it does not work and you are in the possession of a multimeter, you could measure the voltage over the "VSS" and the "VDD" pin; also look into the voltage over the "VSS" and the "VE" (see pin layout below). If there is power, but no light, the LCD is probably defective. You could try to hook up a computer to the board using a USB cable and use a program like Pronterface to interface with the printer to see if it works at all, the display is not required for printing (e.i. if you can access the printer over USB).

Typical 2004 LCD pin layout


If you have a genuine Anet A6

It is advised to install an extra flat ribbon cable and check all the wires, please do check for correct polarity and correct installment.

Please do note the the installation of the Anet A6 LCD display (see this movie and the screenshot from this video below) requires 2 flat ribbon cables to function properly.

LCD screen installation Anet A6

2 ribbon cables inserted in printer board


Sidemark on fan ducts:
Both the stock and most ring type ducts are not aerodynamically designed fan ducts. The stock fan converges too much, this narrowing of the duct causes extra pressure build-up which these fans are not able to handle, so they stall, causing a reduced flow output of the fan. The (semi) circular fan ducts usually also have a design problem. The (semi) circular ones all (but one that I have seen) have the same deficiency that the main passage area does not decrease when the duct loses air through a slot/ejector; this means that the velocity in the main ring decreases after each bleed slot! Note that these fans move air and do not build up a high pressure difference that is large enough to overcome the friction of those designs.

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  • $\begingroup$ Oscar, My screen only came with one flat ribbon cable. It also only has one port for it on the screen, but 2 ports on the motherboard. The image shows a different screen than I have. The screen I have has 5 buttons in a + shape. The one in the image has 2 buttons and a selection disc. My printer is an A6-L printer with auto leveling if that helps. $\endgroup$ – Jase Kaeberlein Dec 1 '18 at 21:35
  • $\begingroup$ @JaseKaeberlein Please update your question to include such vital information, even add pictures. It sounds that you have an Anet A6 clone with a 5 button display. To be sure add if you have a 2004 LCD or a full graphical one with the jog dial, I suspect that you have the first. $\endgroup$ – 0scar Dec 1 '18 at 23:12
  • $\begingroup$ I'll update my answer tomorrow, thanks for the additions! It appears you do not have a genuine Anet A6. $\endgroup$ – 0scar Dec 1 '18 at 23:55
  • $\begingroup$ odd: on Aliexpress, there is a version as "2017 Anet A6-L" that claims to exist in 2 versions with the LCD 2004 screen as 5-button, the LCD 12864 as button dial. LCD 2004 is the cheaper model. $\endgroup$ – Trish Dec 2 '18 at 10:05
  • $\begingroup$ I have done some research, and have confirmed that it is not a genuine A6. The instructions and motherboard say A6, as does the amazon recipt and seller. However, the frame is an A8 frame, as is the screen. I belive we are going to return the printer, and get it from a different seller. Thank you for your help. $\endgroup$ – Jase Kaeberlein Dec 3 '18 at 2:35
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I also ordered an A8, but was sent a A6-L, after doing my homework, I am very happy. The A6-L is an upgraded A8. It uses same board as A6 but has a A8 display (5 button), that's why people have extra LCD spot. The A6-L is a better frame (full front), better carriage set up ( horizontal vs vertical, resulting in better weight distribution and allowing for higher builds ). As far as fans go, the cooling fan only comes on when printing and told to (there is a setting in menu (make sure fan is on, as well as check cura settings for when and how much fan should come on). The Auto leveler that comes with it says to plug into Z limit switch, ( basically it replaces the z-switch all together). Thingaverse has better fan/sensor holders you can print. Remember Google/YouTube is your friend. I found out after lots of searching.

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    $\begingroup$ please cite your sources. $\endgroup$ – Trish Jan 3 at 15:23
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    $\begingroup$ Please edit your answer, and include the links that your searches revealed, as they could prove useful in backing up your claims, as it sounds a bit strange that the A6-L is an upgraded A8, as an A8-L would be the logical model number, for an upgrade. Also, please quote (or summarise) the relevant parts, in case of link death. Thanks. $\endgroup$ – Greenonline Jan 3 at 16:48

protected by 0scar Jan 10 at 13:23

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