Questions tagged [heat-management]

Managing temperatures in 3D printers. This includes hotends, heated beds, heated chambers, cooling elements and cooling of electronics.

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Suggestions for heat element and temperature sensor for heating a brass printer table (dim 25x25x10mm)

I am searching for a way to heat a printer table of brass with approx. measurements 25x25x10 mm. We want to be able to control the heat from 50 °C-100 °C with preferable 1 °C steps. One idea we had ...
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Hotend melting mount

I have an old custom 3D printer that I bought a new hotend for since the old one broke, and apparently, I made a mistake. The old hotend had insulation on it that prevented it from melting the ...
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5 votes
3 answers
1k views

60 watt heater into 40 watt heatblock

This might be a dumb question, but can a 60 watt heater be used on a 40 watt unit? Simply put, I was wrong in thinking that more power was simply stuffed into the same dimensions. It extends about 5 ...
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Hot end temperature keeps dropping on my Creality CR-10 S4

I have a Creality CR-10 S4. What causes a "runaway please reset"? I changed the heating element and the thermistor. When I heat the hot end, the temperature drops down to about 165 °C and I ...
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2 votes
1 answer
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Print Nozzle Type vs Heat Requirement

I recently went to a stainless steel nozzle for printing. What I found is it required significantly more heat to print PLA than I was used to. I'm not sure if the PLA itself (a brand I'd never used ...
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Has anyone had success printing PMMA filament using Lulzbot products?

The title of this post more or less says it all. I am having a heck of a time getting PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate) to print on my Lulzbot Mini 2 (which uses all of the standard/default attachments). ...
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CR6-SE fails to heat hotend to set point

TL;DR - Please help me rebuild my CR-6 SE so that I can move on Here's a link to the latest issue that I had to make proof of in a video: CR6-SE failed Basically, it's failing to reach/maintain ...
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Which 3D printer to print heat-resistant material?

I need to print a rotor for a DC motor I'm designing. In the process of testing the behaviors of the motor performances, I would need a material that will not deform at a temperature range between 100 ...
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Hotend functioning inconsistently. PID completed normally, heating to quickly or not at all on print start up

I have a Xvico X1 printer which I had previously installed an SKR 1.3 on running Marlin, which was functioning normally. For Christmas I got a BLTouch, a heated bed and a Raspberry Pi for it, so I ...
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128 views

Safe, cheap, heated enclosure solution for New England garage

Hopefully this isn't against the rules as it may fall under "opinion" more than a concrete answer, but I'll ask anyway. I live near Boston and it gets cold here. My Ender 3 Pro is out in a ...
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255 views

How to set multiple draft shields in Prusaslicer?

Draft shields helped me a lot to get some usable prints out of ABS on a non-enclosed printer with a small printing bed, but I noticed that the shield cracks (it is affected by the issue that would ...
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Retuning a very delicate and tricky print after print failure

I recently leveled my bed on my Monoprice Select Mini v2 and tried printing this object with family: Pentagonal Hexacontahedron Bracelet by mathgrrl - Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:...
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3 votes
2 answers
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preventing my printer nozzle from getting too dull, from nothing but PLA filament

I had a new Extruder tip on my Ender 3 3D printer. the tip looked like the left tip in the below image. After I have been using it for about 5 months, the tip got dull/flat, like the tip on the right ...
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Got "Heating failed" error while heat catridge is working

I bought an Anet A8 Plus in January. Everything worked pretty well until one week ago. When I tried to print something, I got a "Heating Failed" error, as the hotend didn't get hot. I've ...
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CR-10 heating problem

I've been happily printing on my CR-10 for a couple of months but now there is an issue. As soon as I turn it on the hot-end begins heating. I have replaced the heater and the thermistor but the ...
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E3D High Precision Heater difference

Does anybody know an exact difference between E3D High Precision Heater vs a standard one? I mean technical characteristics not only about its naming. Or maybe somebody has both of them and did some ...
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Problem printing bigger models in the Ender 5

In all the bigger prints I print on my Ender 5 with PETG I have problems with warping and raft detachment during printing. I have a glass bed and I'm using Ultimaker Cura 4.6.1 standard printing ...
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2 votes
1 answer
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Displayed temperature jumping while printing for a long time

I have a Felix Tec 4 (Single Extruder) and at the moment I print for a relatively long time compared to my other prints. Recently I noticed that after a few hours of continuous printing the displayed ...
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Issue with the new heating cartridge of my 3D printer

Recently I had an issue with my heating cartridge, and I decided to change it. For my Anet A8, I needed a 12 V 40 W one. I ordered it but I received a 15 mm length instead of 20 ...
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201 views

Printer froze mid print, stepper motor driver and MCU extremely hot afterwards. MCU seems dead now (?)

A strange problem occured while 3D printing. I've been printing for a long time now, and I consider myself fairly expeienced. normally, with every problem I've encountered with my printers (Anet, ...
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1 vote
2 answers
511 views

CR10 V2 under extruding and heating up too quickly

The heater cartridge on my CR10 V2 broke so I ordered a new one(12V). After replacing it the new one heats of very quickly past the target temperature and the slowly decreases to the target. Once it ...
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PID tuning 50 W cartridge in Marlin

Recently I decided to upgrade my Geeetech A10 (GT2560 v3.0 board) with E3D Chimera, Marlin 2.0.3 and more powerful 50 W heater cartridge. I wired everything up and tried to PID tune the hot end, ...
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2 votes
1 answer
618 views

How is heat creep characterized?

I have a Delta printer with Bowden extruder and all-metal hotend. When I start printing, the hotend gets often jammed. It seems to be independent of the print I am currently doing. Retraction does not ...
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1 answer
459 views

Prusa i3 MK2 Heated Bed Thermal Runaway Problems

I'm having an issue with my Prusa i3 MK2 MMU. It starts printing just fine, and everything gets up to operating temp quite quickly. However, after printing the first few layers, it seems as if the ...
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Prints coming out very stringy

So these past few days I have been 3D printing again with my Ender 3 with PETG and 0.4 mm nozzle and while I have been using the same setting as usual I am seeing an unusual amount of stringing ...
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779 views

Heat bed wires get hot (12 V connected to RAMPS 1.4 shield)

I'm using a 200x200 mm PCB Mk2B which connects to the MOSFET of the D8 pin on a RAMPS 1.4 shield. I used 12 V power source for heat bed so I connected positive to pin 1 and negative to both ...
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3 votes
1 answer
573 views

Chamber heating using hysteresis in Marlin

Is anyone using hysteresis with their chamber in Marlin? I have read bang-bang with hysteresis is possible when using a bed heater. I would like to do that for chamber heating. I have some lamps that ...
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What are the variables for PID control? How to use M301? How to use this command to switch from PID to bang-bang?

I'd like to have the 12V PID output of an old Printrboard hotend control a relay that attaches to a 120V crockpot for something I'm making. I have everything working fine using a relay, but because ...
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4 votes
1 answer
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Makerbot Replicator 2X - restarts after heating

Really need some help. Let me run you through as much as possible. I have a Replicator 2x. I've owned this for around 2 weeks now (used). after some teething issues I've been printing really well all ...
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394 views

Two 12 V heater elements in series in a dual hotend

I have ordered a dual hotend Chimera and it came with 2x 12 V heater elements (in my rush I forgot to order the one with 2x 24V). Is it possible to run these 12 V heater elements in series? ...
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Creating a heated chamber from a very large heated bed

In this instructable, a user creates a heated bed from a wooden plank, some nails, insulated copper wire, and a DC switch. He does place an aluminum bed on top of it, but for our heated chamber, we ...
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2 votes
2 answers
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Power consumption of filament extrusion

I'd like to calculate the power lost through the filament being extruded (or in other words, at how many Watts I'd have to run an ideal heater that loses heat ONLY through filament so that it stays at ...
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3 votes
1 answer
3k views

Heater cartridge with 7.2 ohms - 12 or 24 V?

I have a heater cartridge here that measures 7.2 Ω. At 12 V that would amount to 20 W At 24 V that would amount to 80 W The cartridge itself is 2 cm long Could ...
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3 votes
2 answers
402 views

Bed and nozzle temperature jumping

During my last print I noticed this jumpy behavior during heat up (blue is bed, red is hotend): So I am wondering about the jumps. What could cause this? I do not think that it is a defunct sensor (...
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2 answers
680 views

Replicator 2x getting too hot with silent stepper drivers

I equipped my Makerbot Replicator 2x with silent stepper drivers TMC2100. According to the product page I reduced Vref from 127 (factory default) to 25 in the printer settings as well as in my start G-...
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3 votes
6 answers
17k views

Clogging due to heat creep: buy new cooler or new hotend?

Sadly, I am not able to "repair" my 3D printer. Every time, I want to print something that takes a bit longer to print, the extrusion stops at some point during the print (the first few layers are ...
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5 votes
7 answers
10k views

Creality CR-10S Pro 3D printer heated bed turns off after first few layers: normal?

When I run prints on my Creality CR-10S Pro 3D printer (using Ultimaker Cura as slicer), I set the heated bed to around 70 °C for PETG. after the first few layers, the heated bed set point ...
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1 vote
1 answer
313 views

Unable to hit hot end temperature with part cooler on

I'm unable to use the parts cooler I printed. Every time I turn it on, the hot end temp drops too low, and for some reason the PID can't seem to get it back up: This is a test to simulate the issue. ...
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5 votes
3 answers
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Getting E1 Thermal Runaway errors, even after replacing the heating element on Tevo Tarantula

Earlier today I successfully completed a small print (less than 1 hour) on our Tevo Tarantula. When it came time to print the next one, I started preheating for PLA and got an "E1 Thermal Runaway" ...
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2 votes
1 answer
213 views

Anet A8 won't print properly

I recently bought the Anet A8 from Gearbest. Everything so far seems in order, but one big problem. No matter which filament I used (PLA and ABS), the result is always like this: In the picture ...
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4 votes
3 answers
822 views

Which capacitor to change on CR-10S S500 motherboard?

I have a CR-10S 500 and want to change a capacitor on it to improve and solve temperature issues. This capacitor that needs to be changed should be labeled as "C4" as mentioned on this post but it's ...
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3 votes
1 answer
250 views

Reprap RAMPs over heating issues

So I've got a couple problems, to begin I'm using the RAMPs 1.4, generic Arduino mega with Marlin, generic stepper motor drivers, a generic power supply. Nothing is special or even out of the ordinary....
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5 votes
2 answers
817 views

Insulate hotend on Makerbot Smart Extruder

Simple question: how do you reinsulate the MakerBot Smart Extruders? Backstory: I work at the library. We've recently replaced the MakerBot (extruder connection issues followed by software ...
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3 votes
1 answer
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German RepRep Neo can't heat the extruder

The printer stopped heating the extruder in the middle of the print and I noticed it getting cooled down. After a few seconds, I heard a ticking noise near the filament (which could probably mean the ...
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6 votes
2 answers
6k views

Proper way to power down a FDM printer

I just got my first 3D printer today, QIDI X-ONE[2], and so far so good with the setup and getting my 1st print. I wanted to power off the printer, but I don't see any instructions on how to properly ...
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5 votes
6 answers
10k views

My extruder does not reach the set temperature

Anet A8 with Cura. First time use. The extrusion temperature is set at 190 °C for PLA but the temperature never quite gets that hot, e.g. 189.2 °C. So the printer never prints. The bed temperature is ...
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5 votes
4 answers
2k views

Weird ripping and warping of ABS print

I print my ABS at: 240 °C; with a bedtemp of 80 °C; 5 % rectilinear infill; 0.25 mm layer height; 2 solid layers top and bottom; Fan is completely disabled; 0.25 mm extrusion width; 50 mm/s ...
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8 votes
5 answers
4k views

Heated Bed vs Heated enclosure for large scale printer

I'm /relatively/ new to 3d printing (I'm getting pretty good prints from my Wanhao di3 plus, but haven't done any DIY kits or anything) and materials engineering is probably the furthest thing from my ...
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4 votes
4 answers
3k views

How can I insulate my thermistor?

I have had many problems with my heat shrink for the thermostat on my Anet A8 melting from the heat block. Is there a way I can insulate my wires from heat but still have enough room to put the ...
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4 votes
1 answer
163 views

Delta Kossel 3d Printer Heatsink issues

I feel stupid for asking, but could it cause issues if the Heat sink/Heater block/Extruder tip can spin freely in a Kossel Delta 3d printer? I went to remove the extruder tip the other day, and ...
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