Questions tagged [heated-bed]

Use this tag for questions about the Heated Build Platform or Plate (HBP) for 3D printers.

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30 views

Heat bed is not perfectly flat, should I change it? [closed]

My Longer LK4 heat bed is not perfectly flat and is not perfectly smooth anymore since I scratched it a little while removing prints. Should I replace it with a new one?
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1answer
323 views

Why is glass a widely recommended option for the print bed?

Glass is really bad at transferring heat. Therefore using it with heated bed seems to be a strange solution since it will not be transferring heat from bed to the print. However every article I see ...
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1answer
29 views

How can I extend silicon hotbed wires safely?

I'm in the middle of building a D-Bot printer, and have run into a bit of an issue when it comes to the heat bed wires. The heated bed is an aluminum plate with a silicon heater attached to it, and ...
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1answer
29 views

How is a Thermistor supposed to be installed between Heated Bed and the Glass?

opposed to what the title of this question might impose, I'm not new to 3d printing itself and have operated more than one printer for years, however, I feel dumb with installing the Thermistor on ...
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3answers
63 views

Thermal Stress Cracking During Heat-Up on Glass Heated Bed

About two months ago, I added a heated bed to my custom 3D printer in order to print larger ABS parts for my research project. The heated bed (the PCB kind) was not new, but taken from an old printer ...
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2answers
87 views

The filament is almost impossible to remove

Most people complain about the filament not sticking on build plate but mine is vice versa. At first it used to be very good. When I removed the magnetic bed the project would come off easily but for ...
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1answer
35 views

Use fixation holes instead heated bed

I think that heated bed have some disadvantages - they arent always reliable, they consume additional electrical power. I can imagine one way how HB can be replaced - in some flat surface - glass or ...
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20 views

RAMPS 1.4 LED 2 blinking when trying to heat up bed

On my i3 clone I've been trying to add the Anycubic i3 Ultrabase to my RAMPS 1.4 board and after adding the necessary configurations in the Marlin firmware I can heat up the bed. The issue is that it ...
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28 views

Duplicator I3 Mini V2 bed heating

My Duplicator I3 Mini V2 is having adherence problems. The heated bed will not stay heated once printing starts. What am I doing wrong?
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1answer
39 views

Diagnosing why the left side of a print detaches from the board

I have and Ender 3 Pro, which I'm enjoying except for an intractable problem. No matter how carefully I level the nozzle and tighten the X belt, using this great guide, the prints seem to be tilting ...
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1answer
26 views

Levelling issues

I just got a Dremel 3D20. I unpacked the machine, and raised the bills platform as documented to setup the spool. Then I tried to level the surface and was able to adjust the left and right knobs but ...
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30 views

100k Thermistor not reading properly

I am working with a Flashforge Creator Pro Mighty Motherboard for my home built large 3D printer and the heat bed I purchased uses a 2 wire 100k thermistor, while the board uses a 4 pin connection. I ...
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2answers
188 views

Is a heated bed an essential component for printing (difference between Creality Ender 3 or Anycubic Mega Zero)?

I have two options - to buy either the Ender 3 or the Mega Zero. I'm heading towards Ender 3 because the Mega Zero doesn't have a heated bed. My question is, how is a printer without a heated bed (...
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1answer
49 views

Which 3D printer controller should I use?

I recently build a 3D printer from scratch and was using an Arduino Mega + RAMPS 1.4 to control it. A few weeks in I installed a heated bed to help my prints stick to the surface. The bed I bought was ...
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1answer
51 views

Prusa i3 MK2 Heated Bed Thermal Runaway Problems

I'm having an issue with my Prusa i3 MK2 MMU. It starts printing just fine, and everything gets up to operating temp quite quickly. However, after printing the first few layers, it seems as if the ...
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2answers
161 views

Heat bed wires get hot (12 V connected to RAMPS 1.4 shield)

I'm using a 200x200 mm PCB Mk2B which connects to the MOSFET of the D8 pin on a RAMPS 1.4 shield. I used 12 V power source for heat bed so I connected positive to pin 1 and negative to both ...
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0answers
48 views

TPU Plastic leaving residue in my bed

How do I remove the residue left by TPU plastic ? I used to print with ABS plastic and while it left a little bit of residue, I could remove it with Isopropyl alcohol and then scrap it with my spatula....
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1answer
86 views

My first layer becomes solid when sections are supposed to have small separations

I've only been 3D printing for a few weeks and most of my prints seem to come out fine, but when I try to print models which require a small clearance between sections of the model, e.g. various ...
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1answer
259 views

Any experience with nylon drying on heated build platform and printing on paper?

A while a go I thought that I could try printing in Nylon on my Wanhao Duplicator i3 with full metal hotend. Boy, was I wrong: The filament was not dry and popped like foam. The platform (Buildtak) ...
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1answer
166 views

Is there any way to correct uneven bed temperature?

I'm using an Ender 3 Pro with stock heated bed & glass build surface on it (without any base of stock magnetic plate). My heated bed looks completely flat too despite of many uneven Ender 3 heated ...
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1answer
64 views

Should I remove Cmagnet base for installing glass bed?

I was using Ender-3 Pro's CMagnet bed but I switched to glass bed (because original bed is warped) and left the magnet base (not the bed itself but the glued bed which CMagned sticks) on heated bed. ...
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1answer
102 views

Bed temperature command going to 0 °C with no obvious reason when print is started

Configuration Printrun/Pronterface Slic3r 1.3.0 Windows 10 Arduino Mega + RAMPS 1.4 Marlin 1.1.9 Prusa i3 -- Hephestos BQ with following modifications: 450W PSU (230V to 12V) heatbed 3D touch led ...
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1answer
470 views

Anycubic i3 Mega incorrect Heated Bed temperature Reading

It's been about a month since I've started using my Anycubic i3 Mega and everything has been going great. But today, I left it alone to print a 3DBenchy and it suddenly stopped mid-print. I didn't see ...
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30 views

Heated build plate issues [duplicate]

My heated build plate randomly shuts down on two of my CR-10S Pro's. This happens at random points throughout the build. If I happen to be there I can restart the heating but if not , the build is a ...
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2answers
198 views

Altering the print bed temperature at different layers

I am using Cura for slicing, and OctoPrint for the actual printing. On small pieces with roughly one square cm of surface area prints over about 6 mm have a risk of coming off at 60 °C. ...
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2answers
119 views

How can I remove my print from the bed safely

I have printed two objects with my new 3D printer (Anycubic Mega S) and everytime, my prints are stuck to my bed (sort of glued to it). I cannot remove them by hand. I have tried waiting until it ...
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1answer
127 views

Monoprice select mini V2 displaying '999' degrees for build plate temp

I have a monoprice select mini v2, and it has worked well up until now. It currently displays 999 degrees for the build plate temperature. This is a glitch, and I don't know how to fix it. Since it ...
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2answers
157 views

How to use second hotend for bed heating?

The heated bed output on my printer recently stopped working. I have an output for a second hotend. How can I reprogram this output as a heated bed output? The board is a Geeetech GT2560 rev A+.
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1answer
2k views

Ender 3 displaying wrong temperatures for hotend and bed

I've had issues with my hot end and decided to replace the whole assembly with this. After the replacement, my printer started reading about 135/185 °C for the hot end and bed are both at ...
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1answer
46 views

Warped bed - bulge vs dip?

Theoretically what is better- a warped bed with a dip in the middle, or a bulge in the middle? (I would instinctively think that a dip would be better, since in a perfect world the glass build ...
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1answer
405 views

Setting up UBL for the first time on Marlin 2.x on a Prusa i3, how often should I level the bed using G29?

I used to use the Marlin 1.x software that would level the bed by probing the 4 corners of my print bed (a long time ago, it's been at least 2 years since I used my printer, wasn't able to set it up ...
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2answers
85 views

How to correctly clean the Lacquer from bed?

How can I correctly clean the lacquer from bed printer? I have used some ethylic alcohol (ethanol) to help cleaning But what is the best way to do it?
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2answers
114 views

How to switch firmware from 12 V heated bed to 110 V SSR heated bed?

According to the instructions I have read, you use the same output on the printers mainboard to control a 110 V heated bed with a solid state relay, as you do to power the 12/24 V heated bed ...
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1answer
450 views

Removeable Glass Bed vs. Removeable Springsteel Beds

Removeable beds are starting to get more common in low-price consumer-grade printers. There are pretty much 3 types: Unheated beds Heated beds from steel held by magnets or clips Heated glass beds ...
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2answers
872 views

Why doesn't PLA stick to heated bed?

I have a basic Creality Ender-3 with a black rough bed cover. I'm printing with PLA. After assembly, I printed 3 or 4 small toys sliced by Cura with basic settings. All were printed very well! ...
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1answer
109 views

Anet A6 ERR MAXTEMP BED error

Out of the blue my A6 printer displays a ERR MAXTEMP BED error and shows about 100 degrees on the bed even when just powered on. A quick thermistor check shows that it's working properly : about 80 ...
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3answers
105 views

Does voltage or current affect the time to heat a bed more?

Which of these will heat a bed fastest? A. 12 V, 10 A power supply B. 24 V, 5 A power supply C. Both A and B will be the same (only total watts matter) D. Depends on the situation ...
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2answers
1k views

Reasons for a PLA print not sticking to bed all the sudden?

Plastic: Same Matterhacker PLA (filament I use every day) Printer: Anycubic i3 Mega (the one I use every day) Slicer: Ultimaker Cura 4.2.1 I don't know what's causing it, I haven't changed any slicer ...
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1answer
184 views

Creating a heated chamber from a very large heated bed

In this instructable, a user creates a heated bed from a wooden plank, some nails, insulated copper wire, and a DC switch. He does place an aluminum bed on top of it, but for our heated chamber, we ...
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4answers
6k views

Why keep the bed heated after initial layer(s) with PLA (or PETG)?

I'm printing on an Ender 5 with the default flex/magnetic build surface. I read that PLA and PETG may sometimes be printed without any bed heating at all and also that bed heating is the main ...
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0answers
38 views

Activating heated bed through a switch, or D-pin and TIP31 transistor

Recently the connection between the heated bed and my board blew out. I was able to solder a new connector onto the board and it worked for a day, but now it seems the SMT pad has come off the board ...
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1answer
661 views

Fixing uplifted magnetic heatbed surface

When trying calibration prints, I printed something with 240 celcius on magnetic heatbed and when removing the object, because it sticked very hard on surface, it uplifted surface of magnetic bed. So ...
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2answers
865 views

Printing PLA on PEX surface - is heated bed needed?

I have a WhamBam build system on order. A magnet attaches (glues down I think) to the Aluminium printing bed (or add a glass sheet? Separate question), then PEX material on flexible steel sheet gets ...
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2answers
220 views

Tronxy Marlin boards (two of them) reboot when asked to heat bed

I have two Tronxy 2.0 V5 Marlin boards that reboot whenever heat is applied to the bed. The bed has been swapped (because I thought that was the problem) for a new shiny one. The thermistors, too, of ...
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1answer
542 views

When installing a glass bed, what do you change?

I have an Anet A8 clone printer with a heated aluminum print bed. I'm considering purchasing a glass bed to add on top of the aluminum. When adding a glass bed on top: How would I go about installing ...
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1answer
48 views

Long prints shifting with Ultimaker 2

I am currently using Ultimaker 2+ to print some big parts with PLA. As long as the printing lasts for less than 15 hours (that's what I observed by experience, approximately), there are no problems. ...
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1answer
337 views

Minimum MOSFET rating for MK3 heatbed

My printer (Prusa i3 Mk3 rework clone, with a 200 x 200 MK3 ALU-heatbed, RAMPS 1.4) has a car relay for heated bed control. It works just fine using bang-bang on Marlin, but I would like to replace it ...
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2answers
499 views

Will this MOSFET allow the heat bed to run at a different voltage than the control board

I am currently running my Tronxy X5s with a MKS Gen L board. So far I have not ran the heat bed over 50 degrees C since I have only printed with PLA so far. I plan to try PETG and/or ABS in the near ...
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1answer
56 views

Premium heated bed upgrade options?

The stock heated bed which came on my Creality printer is significantly warped beyond any simple leveling with the screws. Lets say I want to upgrade the stock bed to a premium heated bed, does such a ...
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1answer
96 views

Magnetic heatbed options - can I trim these to size?

I'm looking at options for removable heatbed surfaces for my Prusa Mk2 clone, which has a MK42 bed, 250x210mm I have a removable spring steel plate at the moment, but it is not dependably flat - ...