Questions tagged [heated-bed]

Use this tag for questions about the Heated Build Platform or Plate (HBP) for 3D printers.

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2answers
59 views

How to use second hotend for bed heating?

The heated bed output on my printer recently stopped working. I have an output for a second hotend. How can I reprogram this output as a heated bed output? The board is a Geeetech GT2560 rev A+.
2
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1answer
26 views

Warped bed - bulge vs dip?

Theoretically what is better- a warped bed with a dip in the middle, or a bulge in the middle? (I would instinctively think that a dip would be better, since in a perfect world the glass build ...
3
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1answer
45 views

Setting up UBL for the first time on Marlin 2.x on a Prusa i3, how often should I level the bed using G29?

I used to use the Marlin 1.x software that would level the bed by probing the 4 corners of my print bed (a long time ago, it's been at least 2 years since I used my printer, wasn't able to set it up ...
3
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2answers
46 views

How to correctly clean the Lacquer from bed?

How can I correctly clean the lacquer from bed printer? I have used some ethylic alcohol (ethanol) to help cleaning But what is the best way to do it?
2
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2answers
45 views

How to switch firmware from 12 V heated bed to 110 V SSR heated bed?

According to the instructions I have read, you use the same output on the printers mainboard to control a 110 V heated bed with a solid state relay, as you do to power the 12/24 V heated bed ...
5
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1answer
52 views

Removeable Glass Bed vs. Removeable Springsteel Beds

Removeable beds are starting to get more common in low-price consumer-grade printers. There are pretty much 3 types: Unheated beds Heated beds from steel held by magnets or clips Heated glass beds ...
6
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2answers
290 views

Why doesn't PLA stick to heated bed?

I have a basic Creality Ender-3 with a black rough bed cover. I'm printing with PLA. After assembly, I printed 3 or 4 small toys sliced by Cura with basic settings. All were printed very well! ...
5
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1answer
42 views

Anet A6 ERR MAXTEMP BED error

Out of the blue my A6 printer displays a ERR MAXTEMP BED error and shows about 100 degrees on the bed even when just powered on. A quick thermistor check shows that it's working properly : about 80 ...
5
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3answers
74 views

Does voltage or current affect the time to heat a bed more?

Which of these will heat a bed fastest? A. 12 V, 10 A power supply B. 24 V, 5 A power supply C. Both A and B will be the same (only total watts matter) D. Depends on the situation ...
3
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2answers
235 views

Reasons for a PLA print not sticking to bed all the sudden?

Plastic: Same Matterhacker PLA (filament I use every day) Printer: Anycubic i3 Mega (the one I use every day) Slicer: Ultimaker Cura 4.2.1 I don't know what's causing it, I haven't changed any slicer ...
5
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1answer
82 views

Creating a heated chamber from a very large heated bed

In this instructable, a user creates a heated bed from a wooden plank, some nails, insulated copper wire, and a DC switch. He does place an aluminum bed on top of it, but for our heated chamber, we ...
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4answers
2k views

Why keep the bed heated after initial layer(s) with PLA (or PETG)?

I'm printing on an Ender 5 with the default flex/magnetic build surface. I read that PLA and PETG may sometimes be printed without any bed heating at all and also that bed heating is the main ...
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0answers
30 views

Activating heated bed through a switch, or D-pin and TIP31 transistor

Recently the connection between the heated bed and my board blew out. I was able to solder a new connector onto the board and it worked for a day, but now it seems the SMT pad has come off the board ...
1
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1answer
46 views

Fixing uplifted magnetic heatbed surface

When trying calibration prints, I printed something with 240 celcius on magnetic heatbed and when removing the object, because it sticked very hard on surface, it uplifted surface of magnetic bed. So ...
2
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2answers
309 views

Printing PLA on PEX surface - is heated bed needed?

I have a WhamBam build system on order. A magnet attaches (glues down I think) to the Aluminium printing bed (or add a glass sheet? Separate question), then PEX material on flexible steel sheet gets ...
3
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2answers
91 views

Tronxy Marlin boards (two of them) reboot when asked to heat bed

I have two Tronxy 2.0 V5 Marlin boards that reboot whenever heat is applied to the bed. The bed has been swapped (because I thought that was the problem) for a new shiny one. The thermistors, too, of ...
2
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1answer
136 views

When installing a glass bed, what do you change?

I have an Anet A8 clone printer with a heated aluminum print bed. I'm considering purchasing a glass bed to add on top of the aluminum. When adding a glass bed on top: How would I go about installing ...
2
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1answer
40 views

Long prints shifting with Ultimaker 2

I am currently using Ultimaker 2+ to print some big parts with PLA. As long as the printing lasts for less than 15 hours (that's what I observed by experience, approximately), there are no problems. ...
2
votes
1answer
265 views

Minimum MOSFET rating for MK3 heatbed

My printer (Prusa i3 Mk3 rework clone, with a 200 x 200 MK3 ALU-heatbed, RAMPS 1.4) has a car relay for heated bed control. It works just fine using bang-bang on Marlin, but I would like to replace it ...
2
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2answers
290 views

Will this MOSFET allow the heat bed to run at a different voltage than the control board

I am currently running my Tronxy X5s with a MKS Gen L board. So far I have not ran the heat bed over 50 degrees C since I have only printed with PLA so far. I plan to try PETG and/or ABS in the near ...
2
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1answer
48 views

Premium heated bed upgrade options?

The stock heated bed which came on my Creality printer is significantly warped beyond any simple leveling with the screws. Lets say I want to upgrade the stock bed to a premium heated bed, does such a ...
1
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1answer
63 views

Magnetic heatbed options - can I trim these to size?

I'm looking at options for removable heatbed surfaces for my Prusa Mk2 clone, which has a MK42 bed, 250x210mm I have a removable spring steel plate at the moment, but it is not dependably flat - ...
4
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6answers
3k views

Creality CR-10S Pro 3D printer heated bed turns off after first few layers: normal?

When I run prints on my Creality CR-10S Pro 3D printer (using Ultimaker Cura as slicer), I set the heated bed to around 70 °C for PETG. after the first few layers, the heated bed set point ...
1
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1answer
111 views

How to level bed after applying glue stick for bed adhesion

I'm pretty new to printing PETG, and my Creality Ender 3 now has a glass print bed. I've done some research, and it looks like a pretty bad idea to try and print PETG on a pure glass surface for fear ...
2
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1answer
65 views

Adhesion problem when printing calibration test

Here is my first attempt at printing a "Bed Leveling Calibration test". It obviously didn't come out as I would have hoped, but what can you say just looking at this picture? Is it possible to tell ...
5
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3answers
190 views

How to clean up my build plate for a new build surface?

My ender3 came with a BuildTak-clone surface, and as I was a little too vigorous in getting the print off the bed (I had failed to level right and printed a bit too tight to the bed, resulting in ...
2
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0answers
123 views

Bed leveling compensation not working! [closed]

I have a DIY 3D printer that uses a probe as z min limit and bilinear bed leveling. The problem is that bed leveling compensation sometimes doesn't work. This is in my starting scripts in Simplify3d: ...
2
votes
1answer
1k views

How to remove exess filament from bed after removing model

Recently got an Anycubic I3 Mega Printer and I've been playing with what it can do, but after a model is done it leaves residue on the build plate behind that is bugging me. Do I NEED to remove it? If ...
3
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2answers
1k views

Evidence of a warped build plate?

The first layer is very patchy indeed. I've calibrated the build plate pretty accurately but even if it was a badly calibrated build plate I don't think it would have this effect. It doesn't seem to ...
1
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2answers
266 views

Silicone spray as a release agent?

I've just printed my very first part and it did not want to come loose from the build plate, it fact, it just broke instead. I can heat the bed up again and work it off, but I wondered if a release ...
3
votes
1answer
298 views

Heatbed PID vs Bang-Bang - which one is more stressing on components?

I recently switched from Bang-Bang to PID controlled bed heating. The stock firmware pulsed On/Off with about 5 seconds each cycle. Now with PID, my bed keeps its temperature much more stable, the ...
2
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2answers
759 views

RAMPS board - no power to heatbed

I'm setting up my first 3D Printer, a Prusa i3 MK2 clone. When I try to heat the bed, nothing happens. Then Marlin throws this error after a while: ...
1
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2answers
1k views

Proper wire gauges for extending all CR-10S wires

I want to extend all my CR-10S wires. I have two long wire types: 22 and 18 AWG wires. I've done some research and found the following: Extruder heating element: 22 AWG or lower. Extruder thermistor ...
4
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1answer
334 views

Bed heating from Pronterface works, but not from LCD menu nor from SD print

Running my Ultrabase (glass plate) through a MOSFET on an stock A8 board with Marlin 1.1.8. When I do PID tune through Pronterface (by using the M303 E-1 C8 S70 ...
6
votes
1answer
544 views

Upgrading to silicone heat bed, will it burn my house down?

I'm looking into upgrading my heated bed and replacing it with a silicone bed. I know nearly nothing about electronics, so I would like someone more knowledgeable to confirm if what I have theorized ...
10
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6answers
4k views

Clamps / clips for glass on heatbed

I'm looking for clamps to fix the glass on my heatbed. After some search I found that some people use clamps printed of PLA. Can I use PLA clamps for a heated heatbed (~60 °C)? I also tried ...
6
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3answers
3k views

Will a glass bed warp as it is heated?

I purchased a glass bed to use with my still-in-transit Ender 3. Since the bed came in before the printer, I pulled it out and used a flat edge ruler to see how flat the glass surface is. It appears ...
4
votes
3answers
159 views

Build plate cools during print

I am using a Flashforge Creator Dual Extrusion 3D Printer with RepG (ReplicatorG), and tonight a print completely detached from the build plate. I reset everything and watched it closely. It is a ...
3
votes
1answer
1k views

Anet A8 Hotbed Not Heating Correctly

For my Anet A8 I replaced the stock power supply 12V/20A with a eTopxizu 12V/30A, plus I added a fused 250V/10A power switch and mosfet. The issue that I am having involves the hotbed, it has no ...
6
votes
2answers
10k views

How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)

When I print large prints close to (but not exceeding) the maximum dimensions of the heated build platform on my Anet A8, the brim or skirt or the print itself is printed outside the heated bed, while ...
5
votes
3answers
264 views

Heatbed with zones?

Waiting for a heatbed to get up to 85˚C for a relatively small part got me wondering why beds aren't hardware/G-code configurable for what area is heated? I'm sure it would be an increase in parts ...
6
votes
1answer
2k views

POM filament not sticking to the build plate?

In the creation of the process of printing my own bearings to reduce noise, minimize play/tolerances and size the bearings to the actual size of the application, I obtained a spool of Polyoxymethylene ...
4
votes
1answer
334 views

Adhesion problem (heat bed or extruder issue)

I am having an issue with the transition from the first layer to the second. It seems that the first layer isn’t staying put on the hot bed and the extruder is dragging it around creating a ball of ...
5
votes
2answers
422 views

Heated Bed not heating on original Prusa i3. Using a Ramps 1.4 EFB

So as the title said my heated bed stopped heating mid print. I'm pretty confident the bed itself is not the problem as I've ran continuity tests from the wires and a resistance check (which showed ...
7
votes
4answers
886 views

How do skirts aid print bed adhesion?

In cura one of the options under "build plate adhesion" is "skirt", which seems to simply print a loop around, but not touching, my print. How is this supposed to help my prints stick to the bed?
4
votes
4answers
2k views

Speeding up the heating of the heated bed

Currently I am using a 12 volts, 20 amperes power supply (Model S-240-12) The stepper motors and the extruder need 5 amp, and the heated bed build plate needs 11 amp. Technically you only need to ...
5
votes
1answer
80 views

Monoprice i3 clone heat shuts off printing abs

I have the Monoprice Select 3D Printer (i3 clone). I'm trying to print ABS. I set the temperature to 230°C for the extruder and 110°C for the bed. I can see the printer warming up to those ...
6
votes
3answers
198 views

Can I have a glass bed with only the center heated?

I have a 15x15 cm heating resistor from my current printer (printing area: 12x12 cm). I would like to switch to a glass bed and to rework my printer to increase the printing area to 20 cm (22x22 cm ...
4
votes
1answer
153 views

Print slipped away

I try to configure my 3D Printer properly. I printed this boat model https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2763854 (with a scaling of 0.6):The quality of the print looks nice but at the last roof the ...
7
votes
2answers
976 views

Mains powered heatbed safety

I'm building a 40x40x40cm corexy and I am quite impatient so I want the heated to reach the target temperature as fast as possible, so I ordered a Keenovo silicone heater It is a 220VAC 1200Watt bed, ...