Questions tagged [heated-bed]
Use this tag for questions about the Heated Build Platform or Plate (HBP) for 3D printers.
155
questions
2
votes
1answer
33 views
Which 3D printer controller should I use?
I recently build a 3D printer from scratch and was using an Arduino Mega + RAMPS 1.4 to control it. A few weeks in I installed a heated bed to help my prints stick to the surface. The bed I bought was ...
1
vote
1answer
15 views
Prusa i3 MK2 Heated Bed Thermal Runaway Problems
I'm having an issue with my Prusa i3 MK2 MMU.
It starts printing just fine, and everything gets up to operating temp quite quickly. However, after printing the first few layers, it seems as if the ...
1
vote
2answers
88 views
Heat bed wires get hot (12 V connected to RAMPS 1.4 shield)
I'm using a 200x200 mm PCB Mk2B which connects to the MOSFET of the D8 pin on a RAMPS 1.4 shield. I used 12 V power source for heat bed so I connected positive to pin 1 and negative to both ...
1
vote
0answers
33 views
TPU Plastic leaving residue in my bed
How do I remove the residue left by TPU plastic ? I used to print with ABS plastic and while it left a little bit of residue, I could remove it with Isopropyl alcohol and then scrap it with my spatula....
2
votes
1answer
68 views
My first layer becomes solid when sections are supposed to have small separations
I've only been 3D printing for a few weeks and most of my prints seem to come out fine, but when I try to print models which require a small clearance between sections of the model, e.g. various ...
1
vote
0answers
31 views
Any experience with nylon drying on heated build platform and printing on paper?
A while a go I thought that I could try printing in Nylon on my Wanhao Duplicator i3 with full metal hotend. Boy, was I wrong: The filament was not dry and popped like foam. The platform (Buildtak) ...
1
vote
1answer
53 views
Is there any way to correct uneven bed temperature?
I'm using an Ender 3 Pro with stock heated bed & glass build surface on it (without any base of stock magnetic plate). My heated bed looks completely flat too despite of many uneven Ender 3 heated ...
1
vote
1answer
49 views
Should I remove Cmagnet base for installing glass bed?
I was using Ender-3 Pro's CMagnet bed but I switched to glass bed (because original bed is warped) and left the magnet base (not the bed itself but the glued bed which CMagned sticks) on heated bed. ...
2
votes
1answer
70 views
Bed temperature command going to 0 °C with no obvious reason when print is started
Configuration
Printrun/Pronterface
Slic3r 1.3.0
Windows 10
Arduino Mega + RAMPS 1.4
Marlin 1.1.9
Prusa i3 -- Hephestos BQ with following modifications:
450W PSU (230V to 12V)
heatbed
3D touch
led ...
0
votes
1answer
171 views
Anycubic i3 Mega incorrect Heated Bed temperature Reading
It's been about a month since I've started using my Anycubic i3 Mega and everything has been going great. But today, I left it alone to print a 3DBenchy and it suddenly stopped mid-print. I didn't see ...
0
votes
0answers
29 views
Heated build plate issues [duplicate]
My heated build plate randomly shuts down on two of my CR-10S Pro's. This happens at random points throughout the build. If I happen to be there I can restart the heating but if not , the build is a ...
2
votes
2answers
75 views
Altering the print bed temperature at different layers
I am using Cura for slicing, and OctoPrint for the actual printing.
On small pieces with roughly one square cm of surface area prints over about 6 mm have a risk of coming off at 60 °C.
...
2
votes
2answers
90 views
How can I remove my print from the bed safely
I have printed two objects with my new 3D printer (Anycubic Mega S) and everytime, my prints are stuck to my bed (sort of glued to it). I cannot remove them by hand. I have tried waiting until it ...
3
votes
1answer
71 views
Monoprice select mini V2 displaying '999' degrees for build plate temp
I have a monoprice select mini v2, and it has worked well up until now. It currently displays 999 degrees for the build plate temperature. This is a glitch, and I don't know how to fix it. Since it ...
0
votes
2answers
90 views
How to use second hotend for bed heating?
The heated bed output on my printer recently stopped working. I have an output for a second hotend. How can I reprogram this output as a heated bed output? The board is a Geeetech GT2560 rev A+.
3
votes
1answer
1k views
Ender 3 displaying wrong temperatures for hotend and bed
I've had issues with my hot end and decided to replace the whole assembly with this. After the replacement, my printer started reading about 135/185 °C for the hot end and bed are both at ...
2
votes
1answer
36 views
Warped bed - bulge vs dip?
Theoretically what is better- a warped bed with a dip in the middle, or a bulge in the middle?
(I would instinctively think that a dip would be better, since in a perfect world the glass build ...
3
votes
1answer
183 views
Setting up UBL for the first time on Marlin 2.x on a Prusa i3, how often should I level the bed using G29?
I used to use the Marlin 1.x software that would level the bed by probing the 4 corners of my print bed (a long time ago, it's been at least 2 years since I used my printer, wasn't able to set it up ...
3
votes
2answers
64 views
How to correctly clean the Lacquer from bed?
How can I correctly clean the lacquer from bed printer?
I have used some ethylic alcohol (ethanol) to help cleaning
But what is the best way to do it?
2
votes
2answers
73 views
How to switch firmware from 12 V heated bed to 110 V SSR heated bed?
According to the instructions I have read, you use the same output on the printers mainboard to control a 110 V heated bed with a solid state relay, as you do to power the 12/24 V heated bed ...
7
votes
2answers
222 views
Removeable Glass Bed vs. Removeable Springsteel Beds
Removeable beds are starting to get more common in low-price consumer-grade printers. There are pretty much 3 types:
Unheated beds
Heated beds from steel held by magnets or clips
Heated glass beds ...
6
votes
2answers
400 views
Why doesn't PLA stick to heated bed?
I have a basic Creality Ender-3 with a black rough bed cover. I'm printing with PLA.
After assembly, I printed 3 or 4 small toys sliced by Cura with basic settings. All were printed very well!
...
6
votes
1answer
67 views
Anet A6 ERR MAXTEMP BED error
Out of the blue my A6 printer displays a ERR MAXTEMP BED error and shows about 100 degrees on the bed even when just powered on.
A quick thermistor check shows that it's working properly : about 80 ...
5
votes
3answers
84 views
Does voltage or current affect the time to heat a bed more?
Which of these will heat a bed fastest?
A. 12 V, 10 A power supply
B. 24 V, 5 A power supply
C. Both A and B will be the same (only total watts matter)
D. Depends on the situation
...
3
votes
2answers
644 views
Reasons for a PLA print not sticking to bed all the sudden?
Plastic: Same Matterhacker PLA (filament I use every day)
Printer: Anycubic i3 Mega (the one I use every day)
Slicer: Ultimaker Cura 4.2.1
I don't know what's causing it, I haven't changed any slicer ...
4
votes
1answer
133 views
Creating a heated chamber from a very large heated bed
In this instructable, a user creates a heated bed from a wooden plank, some nails, insulated copper wire, and a DC switch. He does place an aluminum bed on top of it, but for our heated chamber, we ...
10
votes
4answers
4k views
Why keep the bed heated after initial layer(s) with PLA (or PETG)?
I'm printing on an Ender 5 with the default flex/magnetic build surface.
I read that PLA and PETG may sometimes be printed without any bed heating at all and also that bed heating is the main ...
1
vote
0answers
37 views
Activating heated bed through a switch, or D-pin and TIP31 transistor
Recently the connection between the heated bed and my board blew out. I was able to solder a new connector onto the board and it worked for a day, but now it seems the SMT pad has come off the board ...
1
vote
1answer
281 views
Fixing uplifted magnetic heatbed surface
When trying calibration prints, I printed something with 240 celcius on magnetic heatbed and when removing the object, because it sticked very hard on surface, it uplifted surface of magnetic bed.
So ...
3
votes
2answers
596 views
Printing PLA on PEX surface - is heated bed needed?
I have a WhamBam build system on order. A magnet attaches (glues down I think) to the Aluminium printing bed (or add a glass sheet? Separate question), then PEX material on flexible steel sheet gets ...
3
votes
2answers
169 views
Tronxy Marlin boards (two of them) reboot when asked to heat bed
I have two Tronxy 2.0 V5 Marlin boards that reboot whenever heat is applied to the bed. The bed has been swapped (because I thought that was the problem) for a new shiny one. The thermistors, too, of ...
2
votes
1answer
329 views
When installing a glass bed, what do you change?
I have an Anet A8 clone printer with a heated aluminum print bed. I'm considering purchasing a glass bed to add on top of the aluminum. When adding a glass bed on top:
How would I go about installing ...
3
votes
1answer
45 views
Long prints shifting with Ultimaker 2
I am currently using Ultimaker 2+ to print some big parts with PLA. As long as the printing lasts for less than 15 hours (that's what I observed by experience, approximately), there are no problems.
...
2
votes
1answer
304 views
Minimum MOSFET rating for MK3 heatbed
My printer (Prusa i3 Mk3 rework clone, with a 200 x 200 MK3 ALU-heatbed, RAMPS 1.4) has a car relay for heated bed control. It works just fine using bang-bang on Marlin, but I would like to replace it ...
3
votes
2answers
394 views
Will this MOSFET allow the heat bed to run at a different voltage than the control board
I am currently running my Tronxy X5s with a MKS Gen L board. So far I have not ran the heat bed over 50 degrees C since I have only printed with PLA so far. I plan to try PETG and/or ABS in the near ...
2
votes
1answer
51 views
Premium heated bed upgrade options?
The stock heated bed which came on my Creality printer is significantly warped beyond any simple leveling with the screws. Lets say I want to upgrade the stock bed to a premium heated bed, does such a ...
1
vote
1answer
84 views
Magnetic heatbed options - can I trim these to size?
I'm looking at options for removable heatbed surfaces for my Prusa Mk2 clone, which has a MK42 bed, 250x210mm
I have a removable spring steel plate at the moment, but it is not dependably flat - ...
5
votes
6answers
4k views
Creality CR-10S Pro 3D printer heated bed turns off after first few layers: normal?
When I run prints on my Creality CR-10S Pro 3D printer (using Ultimaker Cura as slicer), I set the heated bed to around 70 °C for PETG. after the first few layers, the heated bed set point ...
2
votes
1answer
173 views
How to level bed after applying glue stick for bed adhesion
I'm pretty new to printing PETG, and my Creality Ender 3 now has a glass print bed. I've done some research, and it looks like a pretty bad idea to try and print PETG on a pure glass surface for fear ...
2
votes
1answer
80 views
Adhesion problem when printing calibration test
Here is my first attempt at printing a "Bed Leveling Calibration test".
It obviously didn't come out as I would have hoped, but what can you say just looking at this picture?
Is it possible to tell ...
5
votes
3answers
406 views
How to clean up my build plate for a new build surface?
My ender3 came with a BuildTak-clone surface, and as I was a little too vigorous in getting the print off the bed (I had failed to level right and printed a bit too tight to the bed, resulting in ...
2
votes
0answers
166 views
Bed leveling compensation not working! [closed]
I have a DIY 3D printer that uses a probe as z min limit and bilinear bed leveling. The problem is that bed leveling compensation sometimes doesn't work.
This is in my starting scripts in Simplify3d:
...
3
votes
2answers
3k views
How to remove exess filament from bed after removing model
Recently got an Anycubic I3 Mega Printer and I've been playing with what it can do, but after a model is done it leaves residue on the build plate behind that is bugging me. Do I NEED to remove it? If ...
5
votes
2answers
2k views
Evidence of a warped build plate?
The first layer is very patchy indeed. I've calibrated the build plate pretty accurately but even if it was a badly calibrated build plate I don't think it would have this effect.
It doesn't seem to ...
1
vote
2answers
370 views
Silicone spray as a release agent?
I've just printed my very first part and it did not want to come loose from the build plate, it fact, it just broke instead.
I can heat the bed up again and work it off, but I wondered if a release ...
3
votes
1answer
397 views
Heatbed PID vs Bang-Bang - which one is more stressing on components?
I recently switched from Bang-Bang to PID controlled bed heating. The stock firmware pulsed On/Off with about 5 seconds each cycle. Now with PID, my bed keeps its temperature much more stable, the ...
2
votes
2answers
1k views
RAMPS board - no power to heatbed
I'm setting up my first 3D Printer, a Prusa i3 MK2 clone.
When I try to heat the bed, nothing happens. Then Marlin throws this error after a while:
...
1
vote
2answers
2k views
Proper wire gauges for extending all CR-10S wires
I want to extend all my CR-10S wires. I have two long wire types: 22 and 18 AWG wires. I've done some research and found the following:
Extruder heating element: 22 AWG or lower.
Extruder thermistor ...
5
votes
1answer
472 views
Bed heating from Pronterface works, but not from LCD menu nor from SD print
Running my Ultrabase (glass plate) through a MOSFET on an stock A8 board with Marlin 1.1.8. When I do PID tune through Pronterface (by using the M303 E-1 C8 S70 ...
6
votes
1answer
562 views
Upgrading to silicone heat bed, will it burn my house down?
I'm looking into upgrading my heated bed and replacing it with a silicone bed. I know nearly nothing about electronics, so I would like someone more knowledgeable to confirm if what I have theorized ...
