Questions tagged [heated-bed]
Use this tag for questions about the Heated Build Platform or Plate (HBP) for 3D printers.
146
questions
0
votes
1answer
23 views
Anycubic i3 Mega incorrect Heated Bed temperature Reading
It's been about a month since I've started using my Anycubic i3 Mega and everything has been going great. But today, I left it alone to print a 3DBenchy and it suddenly stopped mid-print. I didn't see ...
0
votes
0answers
28 views
Heated build plate issues [duplicate]
My heated build plate randomly shuts down on two of my CR-10S Pro's. This happens at random points throughout the build. If I happen to be there I can restart the heating but if not , the build is a ...
2
votes
2answers
60 views
Altering the print bed temperature at different layers
I am using Cura for slicing, and OctoPrint for the actual printing.
On small pieces with roughly one square cm of surface area prints over about 6 mm have a risk of coming off at 60 °C.
...
2
votes
2answers
76 views
How can I remove my print from the bed safely
I have printed two objects with my new 3D printer (Anycubic Mega S) and everytime, my prints are stuck to my bed (sort of glued to it). I cannot remove them by hand. I have tried waiting until it ...
3
votes
1answer
24 views
Monoprice select mini V2 displaying '999' degrees for build plate temp
I have a monoprice select mini v2, and it has worked well up until now. It currently displays 999 degrees for the build plate temperature. This is a glitch, and I don't know how to fix it. Since it ...
0
votes
2answers
66 views
How to use second hotend for bed heating?
The heated bed output on my printer recently stopped working. I have an output for a second hotend. How can I reprogram this output as a heated bed output? The board is a Geeetech GT2560 rev A+.
2
votes
1answer
179 views
Ender 3 displaying wrong temperatures for hotend and bed
I've had issues with my hot end and decided to replace the whole assembly with this. After the replacement, my printer started reading about 135/185 °C for the hot end and bed are both at ...
2
votes
1answer
30 views
Warped bed - bulge vs dip?
Theoretically what is better- a warped bed with a dip in the middle, or a bulge in the middle?
(I would instinctively think that a dip would be better, since in a perfect world the glass build ...
3
votes
1answer
84 views
Setting up UBL for the first time on Marlin 2.x on a Prusa i3, how often should I level the bed using G29?
I used to use the Marlin 1.x software that would level the bed by probing the 4 corners of my print bed (a long time ago, it's been at least 2 years since I used my printer, wasn't able to set it up ...
3
votes
2answers
54 views
How to correctly clean the Lacquer from bed?
How can I correctly clean the lacquer from bed printer?
I have used some ethylic alcohol (ethanol) to help cleaning
But what is the best way to do it?
2
votes
2answers
47 views
How to switch firmware from 12 V heated bed to 110 V SSR heated bed?
According to the instructions I have read, you use the same output on the printers mainboard to control a 110 V heated bed with a solid state relay, as you do to power the 12/24 V heated bed ...
6
votes
2answers
101 views
Removeable Glass Bed vs. Removeable Springsteel Beds
Removeable beds are starting to get more common in low-price consumer-grade printers. There are pretty much 3 types:
Unheated beds
Heated beds from steel held by magnets or clips
Heated glass beds ...
6
votes
2answers
303 views
Why doesn't PLA stick to heated bed?
I have a basic Creality Ender-3 with a black rough bed cover. I'm printing with PLA.
After assembly, I printed 3 or 4 small toys sliced by Cura with basic settings. All were printed very well!
...
6
votes
1answer
45 views
Anet A6 ERR MAXTEMP BED error
Out of the blue my A6 printer displays a ERR MAXTEMP BED error and shows about 100 degrees on the bed even when just powered on.
A quick thermistor check shows that it's working properly : about 80 ...
5
votes
3answers
74 views
Does voltage or current affect the time to heat a bed more?
Which of these will heat a bed fastest?
A. 12 V, 10 A power supply
B. 24 V, 5 A power supply
C. Both A and B will be the same (only total watts matter)
D. Depends on the situation
...
3
votes
2answers
278 views
Reasons for a PLA print not sticking to bed all the sudden?
Plastic: Same Matterhacker PLA (filament I use every day)
Printer: Anycubic i3 Mega (the one I use every day)
Slicer: Ultimaker Cura 4.2.1
I don't know what's causing it, I haven't changed any slicer ...
5
votes
1answer
88 views
Creating a heated chamber from a very large heated bed
In this instructable, a user creates a heated bed from a wooden plank, some nails, insulated copper wire, and a DC switch. He does place an aluminum bed on top of it, but for our heated chamber, we ...
8
votes
4answers
2k views
Why keep the bed heated after initial layer(s) with PLA (or PETG)?
I'm printing on an Ender 5 with the default flex/magnetic build surface.
I read that PLA and PETG may sometimes be printed without any bed heating at all and also that bed heating is the main ...
1
vote
0answers
37 views
Activating heated bed through a switch, or D-pin and TIP31 transistor
Recently the connection between the heated bed and my board blew out. I was able to solder a new connector onto the board and it worked for a day, but now it seems the SMT pad has come off the board ...
1
vote
1answer
86 views
Fixing uplifted magnetic heatbed surface
When trying calibration prints, I printed something with 240 celcius on magnetic heatbed and when removing the object, because it sticked very hard on surface, it uplifted surface of magnetic bed.
So ...
3
votes
2answers
409 views
Printing PLA on PEX surface - is heated bed needed?
I have a WhamBam build system on order. A magnet attaches (glues down I think) to the Aluminium printing bed (or add a glass sheet? Separate question), then PEX material on flexible steel sheet gets ...
3
votes
2answers
102 views
Tronxy Marlin boards (two of them) reboot when asked to heat bed
I have two Tronxy 2.0 V5 Marlin boards that reboot whenever heat is applied to the bed. The bed has been swapped (because I thought that was the problem) for a new shiny one. The thermistors, too, of ...
2
votes
1answer
189 views
When installing a glass bed, what do you change?
I have an Anet A8 clone printer with a heated aluminum print bed. I'm considering purchasing a glass bed to add on top of the aluminum. When adding a glass bed on top:
How would I go about installing ...
3
votes
1answer
43 views
Long prints shifting with Ultimaker 2
I am currently using Ultimaker 2+ to print some big parts with PLA. As long as the printing lasts for less than 15 hours (that's what I observed by experience, approximately), there are no problems.
...
2
votes
1answer
276 views
Minimum MOSFET rating for MK3 heatbed
My printer (Prusa i3 Mk3 rework clone, with a 200 x 200 MK3 ALU-heatbed, RAMPS 1.4) has a car relay for heated bed control. It works just fine using bang-bang on Marlin, but I would like to replace it ...
3
votes
2answers
321 views
Will this MOSFET allow the heat bed to run at a different voltage than the control board
I am currently running my Tronxy X5s with a MKS Gen L board. So far I have not ran the heat bed over 50 degrees C since I have only printed with PLA so far. I plan to try PETG and/or ABS in the near ...
2
votes
1answer
48 views
Premium heated bed upgrade options?
The stock heated bed which came on my Creality printer is significantly warped beyond any simple leveling with the screws. Lets say I want to upgrade the stock bed to a premium heated bed, does such a ...
1
vote
1answer
73 views
Magnetic heatbed options - can I trim these to size?
I'm looking at options for removable heatbed surfaces for my Prusa Mk2 clone, which has a MK42 bed, 250x210mm
I have a removable spring steel plate at the moment, but it is not dependably flat - ...
5
votes
6answers
3k views
Creality CR-10S Pro 3D printer heated bed turns off after first few layers: normal?
When I run prints on my Creality CR-10S Pro 3D printer (using Ultimaker Cura as slicer), I set the heated bed to around 70 °C for PETG. after the first few layers, the heated bed set point ...
2
votes
1answer
131 views
How to level bed after applying glue stick for bed adhesion
I'm pretty new to printing PETG, and my Creality Ender 3 now has a glass print bed. I've done some research, and it looks like a pretty bad idea to try and print PETG on a pure glass surface for fear ...
2
votes
1answer
71 views
Adhesion problem when printing calibration test
Here is my first attempt at printing a "Bed Leveling Calibration test".
It obviously didn't come out as I would have hoped, but what can you say just looking at this picture?
Is it possible to tell ...
5
votes
3answers
243 views
How to clean up my build plate for a new build surface?
My ender3 came with a BuildTak-clone surface, and as I was a little too vigorous in getting the print off the bed (I had failed to level right and printed a bit too tight to the bed, resulting in ...
2
votes
0answers
137 views
Bed leveling compensation not working! [closed]
I have a DIY 3D printer that uses a probe as z min limit and bilinear bed leveling. The problem is that bed leveling compensation sometimes doesn't work.
This is in my starting scripts in Simplify3d:
...
3
votes
2answers
2k views
How to remove exess filament from bed after removing model
Recently got an Anycubic I3 Mega Printer and I've been playing with what it can do, but after a model is done it leaves residue on the build plate behind that is bugging me. Do I NEED to remove it? If ...
4
votes
2answers
1k views
Evidence of a warped build plate?
The first layer is very patchy indeed. I've calibrated the build plate pretty accurately but even if it was a badly calibrated build plate I don't think it would have this effect.
It doesn't seem to ...
1
vote
2answers
304 views
Silicone spray as a release agent?
I've just printed my very first part and it did not want to come loose from the build plate, it fact, it just broke instead.
I can heat the bed up again and work it off, but I wondered if a release ...
3
votes
1answer
319 views
Heatbed PID vs Bang-Bang - which one is more stressing on components?
I recently switched from Bang-Bang to PID controlled bed heating. The stock firmware pulsed On/Off with about 5 seconds each cycle. Now with PID, my bed keeps its temperature much more stable, the ...
2
votes
2answers
862 views
RAMPS board - no power to heatbed
I'm setting up my first 3D Printer, a Prusa i3 MK2 clone.
When I try to heat the bed, nothing happens. Then Marlin throws this error after a while:
...
1
vote
2answers
1k views
Proper wire gauges for extending all CR-10S wires
I want to extend all my CR-10S wires. I have two long wire types: 22 and 18 AWG wires. I've done some research and found the following:
Extruder heating element: 22 AWG or lower.
Extruder thermistor ...
5
votes
1answer
359 views
Bed heating from Pronterface works, but not from LCD menu nor from SD print
Running my Ultrabase (glass plate) through a MOSFET on an stock A8 board with Marlin 1.1.8. When I do PID tune through Pronterface (by using the M303 E-1 C8 S70 ...
6
votes
1answer
550 views
Upgrading to silicone heat bed, will it burn my house down?
I'm looking into upgrading my heated bed and replacing it with a silicone bed. I know nearly nothing about electronics, so I would like someone more knowledgeable to confirm if what I have theorized ...
10
votes
6answers
5k views
Clamps / clips for glass on heatbed
I'm looking for clamps to fix the glass on my heatbed. After some search I found that some people use clamps printed of PLA. Can I use PLA clamps for a heated heatbed (~60 °C)?
I also tried ...
6
votes
3answers
3k views
Will a glass bed warp as it is heated?
I purchased a glass bed to use with my still-in-transit Ender 3. Since the bed came in before the printer, I pulled it out and used a flat edge ruler to see how flat the glass surface is.
It appears ...
5
votes
3answers
175 views
Build plate cools during print
I am using a Flashforge Creator Dual Extrusion 3D Printer with RepG (ReplicatorG), and tonight a print completely detached from the build plate.
I reset everything and watched it closely. It is a ...
4
votes
1answer
2k views
Anet A8 Hotbed Not Heating Correctly
For my Anet A8 I replaced the stock power supply 12V/20A with a eTopxizu 12V/30A, plus I added a fused 250V/10A power switch and mosfet. The issue that I am having involves the hotbed, it has no ...
6
votes
2answers
12k views
How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)
When I print large prints close to (but not exceeding) the maximum dimensions of the heated build platform on my Anet A8, the brim or skirt or the print itself is printed outside the heated bed, while ...
5
votes
4answers
311 views
Heatbed with zones?
Waiting for a heatbed to get up to 85˚C for a relatively small part got me wondering why beds aren't hardware/G-code configurable for what area is heated? I'm sure it would be an increase in parts ...
7
votes
1answer
2k views
POM filament not sticking to the build plate?
In the creation of the process of printing my own bearings to reduce noise, minimize play/tolerances and size the bearings to the actual size of the application, I obtained a spool of Polyoxymethylene ...
4
votes
1answer
366 views
Adhesion problem (heat bed or extruder issue)
I am having an issue with the transition from the first layer to the second. It seems that the first layer isn’t staying put on the hot bed and the extruder is dragging it around creating a ball of ...
5
votes
2answers
440 views
Heated Bed not heating on original Prusa i3. Using a Ramps 1.4 EFB
So as the title said my heated bed stopped heating mid print.
I'm pretty confident the bed itself is not the problem as I've ran continuity tests from the wires and a resistance check (which showed ...
