Questions tagged [hotend]

Questions about the standard extrusion mechanism found in FDM/FFF printers.

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Prusa i3 MK8 can't achieve required temperature

I've just installed a new 12 V hotend for my Prusa i3 MK8. So, now the new hotend can't achieve temperatures above 190-200 °C and it takes about 30 minutes to achieve 200 °C. The thermistor and ...
2 votes
2 answers
55 views

Is a thermoplastic's glass state relevant for 3D printing extrusion?

From my understanding of FFF 3D printing, the glass state is usually used to heat the bed for better first layer adhesion. Other than that, does the extruder keep ex:PLA in a glass state for any ...
3 votes
1 answer
104 views

Using 40W adapter on 30W heater cartridge?

Recently, I accidentally shorted out my heater cartridge when trying to do my first nozzle swap on my Prusa MK3S+. I just ordered a new E3D v6 Hotend with 30 W Heater Cartridge and it will be here in ...
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38 views

E1 printer halted error

I changed the hot end from the stock Creality CR-10 v2 to an e3D v6. Since it uses a type 5 thermistor, I had to change the firmware; after a quick search I found the TH3D firmware which I used, I did ...
4 votes
2 answers
278 views

Changing a teflon tube inside a hotend, help with disassembly

I have an HBot 3D 1.1 printer (it's a CoreXY style printer, newer versions are produced by ZMorph). I think that a filament guide tube inside the hotend got damaged, resulting in decreased diameter, ...
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0 answers
16 views

CR-10s hotend temp drops after a while and alarms. I already did PID tuning and that worked

My printer started getting thermal errors after a while of great printing. Doesn't always happen, but the temp looks very stable the whole time, then it just starts dropping. The hotbed is still ...
0 votes
1 answer
226 views

Creality CR-6 SE heatblock replacement

Recently I broke the threads inside the heatblock of my CR-6 SE by tightening the nozzle too much (it seemed not deep enough). No problem - bought a new hotend extruder kit for around 35 euros. I put ...
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1 vote
0 answers
216 views

Pros and cons of the two(+?) kinds of bimetal heatbreaks

I just replaced my PTFE-lined heatbreak with a Slice Engineering Copperhead, and am mostly happy with the results, but in the process of buying it and learning not to jam it, I came across with ...
2 votes
2 answers
389 views

Are there any nozzles shorter than volcano but longer than MK8?

I have a semi-diy hotend setup on my MOOZ-2 (an obscure chinese printer). It requires that the total nozzle length (including threading) is longer than 15 mm. So far, I've been using Volcano nozzles ...
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1 vote
1 answer
73 views

PID fails too hot temperature with new hotend on Tevo Tornado

I am new to 3D printing. I had a big issue with the full hotend: thermocouple broke, the fan broke, plastic everywhere... (I don't really know why as hundreds of prints were good before) Anyway, I ...
2 votes
1 answer
52 views

Hotend melting mount

I have an old custom 3D printer that I bought a new hotend for since the old one broke, and apparently, I made a mistake. The old hotend had insulation on it that prevented it from melting the ...
0 votes
1 answer
208 views

Program Creality v2.2 board to use HEATER1 transistor for HEATER0

My CR10-S5 with Creality v2.2 mainboard recently suffered from the hotend heater transistor (MOSFET) failing short. After taking a look at the board, I tried to be clever and use the ...
0 votes
1 answer
432 views

Hot end temperature keeps dropping on my Creality CR-10 S4

I have a Creality CR-10 S4. What causes a "runaway please reset"? I changed the heating element and the thermistor. When I heat the hot end, the temperature drops down to about 165 °C and I ...
1 vote
1 answer
103 views

Anycubic i3 Mega layers don't stick together/are too thin

My Anycubic i3 Mega suddenly stopped printing properly. As you can see on the images attached, the printed filament seems to be too thin which causes the layers to not stick together. I already: ...
3 votes
2 answers
1k views

Ender 3 hot end heater "stuck on"

Forgive this long-winded post, but I thought it would be helpful to include the back story leading up to a very scary situation on my Ender 3. I was printing a job and everything started out fine just ...
3 votes
3 answers
507 views

Filament Jamming in Hotend. Why?

This has me stumped. I had been printing normally until this happened. Below is an expurgated version of my headache over two days. Some help would be appreciated. Printer is Hypercube Evolution (...
3 votes
1 answer
4k views

When do you need a silicone sock? What problem does it solve?

I'm returning to 3d printing and there's all sorts of new things going on. One of which is a silicone sock. I suspect it's part of the engineering where you want to keep certain parts hot, and ...
0 votes
3 answers
118 views

How do I make the layers stick together more and warp less?

I have a Chiron from Anycubic and I have had some leveling issues in the last few weeks, however, I believe that I have sorted that. The layers attached to the base plate or the raft now come out very ...
1 vote
1 answer
2k views

K-Thermistor vs Ender 3 Stock Thermistor: Problem with bad reads

I have changed my hotend on my Ender 3 v2 with Dragonfly BMS. In effect, because I wanted to reach higher temperatures, I also changed the thermistor with one that is 3mm wide and does not have the ...
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2 votes
2 answers
287 views

Does abrasive filament require a special hotend?

I know that you need a special nozzle to extrude abrasive filament (carbon fibre, copper, ...). I do have such a nozzle (coated steel) and am printing carbon fibre and copper filament. Last time I ...
0 votes
2 answers
196 views

OctoPrint suddenly no longer able to heat up hot end / extruder

My OctPrint and Monoprice Maker Select IIIP (A Wanhao i3 Duplicator Plus clone) were working fine, but suddenly today the hot end won't heat up anymore. I tried disconnecting the OctoPrint USB and ...
0 votes
1 answer
67 views

Alunar Prusa i3 hot end replacement options

I had a print fail a while back and the filament covered the hot end. I attempted to replace the nozzle to fix the no filament issue but it looks like the unit has a cheap Chinese heater block that I ...
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3 votes
1 answer
483 views

Anycubic i3 Mega no fans

I am having a bit of a nightmare trying to work out what is happening to the fans on my Mega Pro. First off, the part cooling fan stopped working, then not long after the extruder fan also stopped ...
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0 votes
2 answers
113 views

Hotend temperature goes to infinity after few layers

I have a "classic" home built 3D printer, Arduino Mega, RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin 2.0. It worked, was put in storage, and now I am trying to get it running again. During all of the testing ...
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2 votes
1 answer
5k views

How to define bed dimensions in Marlin for custom carriage / hot end?

How would I begin measuring my hotend / carriage dimensions in Marlin to prevent my hotend from slamming into the frame? I see in Marlin the 'define bed size' parameters ...
2 votes
0 answers
121 views

Silicone socks for nozzle only?

Is there a readily available silicone sock that goes just over the nozzle, to supplement an existing sock around the heat block body? I've seen a product for the E3D V6 that goes around the entire ...
0 votes
1 answer
75 views

I think my extruder is hosed

I put a new glass bed on my Ender 3. After playing with the baby-steps and bed temperature I thought I had it ready to go. I started to print some rocket kits for the Cub Scouts and the job didn't ...
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1 vote
1 answer
387 views

3D printer clog. Nozzle keeps getting screwed in crooked

My 3D printer has got a clog, and i think it is because the nozzle hole has just recently started to only screw in crooked. I’m not sure how this happened. I have tried with multiple nozzles, but ...
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0 votes
2 answers
205 views

Hotends where heatbreak is not load-bearing?

Having started with an Ender 3, it just seemed natural to me that the heatbreak should not be load-bearing; Creality's stock hotend has 2 bolts holding the heat block to the heat sink, which of course ...
2 votes
2 answers
689 views

PLA Jamming- is the heat break too hot or too cold?

I’m getting nothing but jams with a new BCN3D Sigma R19 printer, printing PLA at 195 °C, two brands (BCN’s own brand and Monoprice orange). 6.5 mm retraction, as used in BCN’s PLA profile. Using their ...
1 vote
2 answers
151 views

Way to add identity to an all metal hot end

Is there any convention on how to mark an all metal hotend to distinguish it from a hotend with a PTFE tube in the heatbreak? Once assembled for a German Riprap 3D printer, they look exactly the same ...
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3 votes
2 answers
579 views

E3D Clone heatbreak / nozzle leak issue

I've built a custom machine based on the AM8 (Anet A8 upgrade). I've got an E3D V6 clone hotend in, seems like a decent clone. I've replaced the heat break, heat block, and nozzle several times but ...
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1 vote
2 answers
628 views

How does direct drive conversion allow higher print temperatures?

I have an Ender 3, currently in stock Bowden extruder configuration. I want to be able to print nylon and TPU, both of which require temperature too high for the tolerance of the PTFE Bowden tube (as ...
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3 votes
1 answer
350 views

Hotend is oozing out the sides and getting in the way of my print

My Ender 3 just started having this problem a couple of months ago. Prior to that the amount of excess filament showing up on the hotend was very minimal, but now it is oozing so much out of the top ...
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1 vote
1 answer
260 views

Random hot-end temperature spikes

I've been having issues with thermal runaways lately due to random temperature spikes on my Ender 3. I figured it was out of calibration so I did a PID tune and still had issues. I then replaced the ...
1 vote
0 answers
555 views

What volumetric extrusion rates can the Ender 3's stock hotend achieve?

With a fully stock Ender 3, the limiting factor is almost surely the extruder, not the hotend, so I'm asking from a standpoint of having an upgraded extruder (mine is direct drive) but stock hotend. I'...
2 votes
2 answers
1k views

Heater cartridge extension wiring

I recently bought a Titan Aero hot end which came with a 24 V 30 W heater cartridge from E3D. I'd like to use this but the cable length is only 1 meter long and I need it to be 2 meters. The ends ...
1 vote
1 answer
2k views

Will a Micro Swiss extruder and hotend speed up prints on my Ender 3 Pro?

Long story for hopefully a simple yes/no answer: I have a lightly modified Ender 3 Pro (BLTouch, glass bed, beefier bed springs and nobs, led lights) and I daydream about someday getting an "...
1 vote
0 answers
631 views

Levelling issue with Anycubic Chiron [closed]

I can't get anything from my printer since I change filament (I always use PLA from SUNLU). I changed the nozzle, redo the leveling... Every time now, the nozzle seems way to close to the bed and the ...
1 vote
1 answer
80 views

Wrench drops temperature of heater block when tightening nozzle

I've noticed when heating up the hotend to maximum operating temperature to tighten the nozzle against the heat break, after putting a wrench on the heater block, the temperature of the heater block ...
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1 vote
2 answers
2k views

CR6-SE fails to heat hotend to set point

TL;DR - Please help me rebuild my CR-6 SE so that I can move on Here's a link to the latest issue that I had to make proof of in a video: CR6-SE failed Basically, it's failing to reach/maintain ...
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3 votes
2 answers
325 views

How to print at low temperatures (filament melting at about 70 °C)?

I'm using Cura to slice prints from a biodegradable polyester called PCL (Polycaprolactone). I need to print @ ~70 °C but extruder does not run until nozzle reaches 175 °C. Which setting to change so ...
0 votes
1 answer
534 views

Fixing temperature Issues on I3 Mega / Where to find spare part

I have an old Anycubic i3 Mega printer which started having issues keeping the hotend-temperature. The peak at the start of the diagram was when I was touching the cable on top of the hotend: It also ...
0 votes
0 answers
123 views

How to install E3D Volcano to CR-10 mini?

I have E3D Volcano and want to upgrade my CR-10 mini. Found instructions how to change E3D Hotend for CR-10, but can't find any with CR-10 mini. Could I use same instruction that was made for CR-10? ...
1 vote
1 answer
286 views

Anet E10 - Print above 270 °C or "maxtemp" error

Hoping to determine the reason for my inability to print over ~270 °C on my Anet E10. To date all operation has been fine. Attempting to move to a configuration that supports above 250 °C up to ~300 °...
0 votes
0 answers
180 views

Hotend functioning inconsistently. PID completed normally, heating to quickly or not at all on print start up

I have a Xvico X1 printer which I had previously installed an SKR 1.3 on running Marlin, which was functioning normally. For Christmas I got a BLTouch, a heated bed and a Raspberry Pi for it, so I ...
0 votes
1 answer
77 views

Is it practical to build a separate hotend temperature controller to assemble hotends without taking up printer time?

One could make such a controller with 3D printer parts and building a case for them, but is it significantly less than just buying a compatible low-cost printer. The intent is to heat up the all-...
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0 votes
1 answer
894 views

Dead thermister or dead board on Ender 5?

I have a base model Ender 5 with the silent v4.2.7 board. Earlier this week during an overnight print, I came in to find it unfinished and powered off. I turned it back and it complained about an ...
0 votes
1 answer
110 views

What technics are you using to seal between the throat tube and nozzle?

Thinking this over, the best place to seal the hotend is between the throat tube and nozzle. What are the advantages/disadvantages of an integrated nozzle and throat to make this seal? Does a throat ...
  • 2,158
0 votes
2 answers
355 views

What happens if you use high temperature PTFE tape with the heater block?

High temperature PTFE tape is rated up to 550°F, which is 288°C. I'm wondering if it would be useful for components on the hot end to prevent oozing. Has anyone tried it?
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