Questions tagged [hotend]
Questions about the standard extrusion mechanism found in FDM/FFF printers.
195
questions
2
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1
answer
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How to secure silicone sleeve to my heater block?
My silicone sleeve dislodged from the heater block. Surprisingly, Prusa firmware correctly detected crash, pushed it out of the way and resumed print.
I can just print without it, but I would prefer ...
5
votes
1
answer
46
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What material is Prusa mk3s+ hotend heaterblock made of?
My heaterblock is in a poor state after the heater malfunction. Before I'll buy a spare, I want to ask what material is the original block made of? I don't see it on the product page.
Available spares ...
-1
votes
1
answer
19
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Anycubic printer gives a "hotend not heating up" error
I just bought an Anycubic 3D printer and after a few uses the screen on the printer would say "hotend not heating up".
The heat bed and hotend would not heat up all the way and would cool ...
0
votes
1
answer
47
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Changing axial fan on CR-10 smart caused temp fluctuation/heat creep
Printer: Creality CR-10 Smart
Slicer: Cura
My axial fan, which cools the heatsink, broke down. I replaced it with a cheap knock-off fan, as it was the only option available. However, this replacement ...
0
votes
0
answers
21
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Anet A6: known hotend problems?
I've got an Anet A6, modified with bed-leveling sensor etc., which has given me good service for several years. I'm not in a position to spend lots of money on anything fancier, since at present at ...
7
votes
2
answers
888
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How do I remove filament from the hotend of a direct-drive printer?
I have PrintrBot Simple Metal and over the course of today's use, I managed to get a piece of filament stuck in the hotend, just below the extruder gear. There's not really much to grab at, and my ...
2
votes
1
answer
106
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Print failure due to heater inconsistency
After encountering an issue where the original heater cartridge (~40 W) for my generic MK6 hotend was unable to reach/maintain stable temperature at ~260 °C (for PETG) I replaced it with a higher ...
2
votes
2
answers
176
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Diagnosing sudden problem with hotend temperature
I'm using a 65W heater cartridge and T-D500 type NTC thermistor. This setup has been working fine since I installed it sometime last year. Suddenly today, the temperature reading started jumping ...
1
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1
answer
163
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Ultimaker 2 Go - Converting to Use 1.75 mm Filament
I'm working on converting an Ultimaker 2 Go to use 1.75 mm filament. So far, I have replaced the bowden tube, replaced the feeder with this one: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-feeder-1-...
3
votes
1
answer
86
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What is the practical difference between different nozzle tip shapes?
Sooooo, I'm shopping for nozzles (E3Dv6 flavor), and there seems to be several shapes available, differing mainly (or even exclusively) in the size and shape of the cone coming down to the exit ...
0
votes
0
answers
61
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Ender3 Pro - Able to get hot end to 220 when setting the temperature manually, but I'm getting an E1 error when I try to run G-code
I just started having this issue today. I have a Creality Ender3 Pro with a CR Touch recently installed. I started a print this morning that failed because it was stuck at 203 °C, when it was trying ...
1
vote
0
answers
35
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Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer
I have an Ender 3 Pro with 4.2.2 controller board and BLTouch fitted, currently running Marlin Bugfix 2.0 firmware.
I needed to fit a new printer hot end and thermistor, but now the temperature is ...
0
votes
2
answers
3k
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New Ender 3 V2 Neo keeps losing nozzle and plate temperature in the middle of the print and must be turned off to stop the print
I purchased it new from Amazon in December. It started about one week ago and it just stops with a constant beep and does not allow me to do anything else except turn it off. Doesn't happen on all ...
1
vote
0
answers
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Installing a temperature probe... what kind of adhesive to use?
I am trying to install a new Dragonfly hotend on my Ender 3.
I bought some epoxy which advertised high thermal conductivity, but I've found it difficult to use. It was thick, so it was very hard for ...
1
vote
0
answers
205
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Printer hotend heating slowly and faulting
I have a CR-10max that is about 3 years old and can no longer print due to hot end faults. The hot end starts ramping up temperature but is unable to get past 150 °C, unless I turn off the hotend fan ...
2
votes
1
answer
323
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Why do we change E-steps based on the hotend?
I know why and can understand the logic of changing E-steps for a new extruder- obviously it is related to the number of turns of the stepper.
What I don't understand is how the hotend could alter the ...
1
vote
1
answer
40
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Missed hotend's thoat depth during install, is it too bad?
I replaced my hotend's thoat and I made a mistake I hope it's not fatal for the new install. After reassembling the hotend I left a marging of about 5mm of the throat out of the heatsink. I noticed ...
0
votes
0
answers
53
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Prusa i3 MK8 can't achieve required temperature
I've just installed a new 12 V hotend for my Prusa i3 MK8. So, now the new hotend can't achieve temperatures above 190-200 °C and it takes about 30 minutes to achieve 200 °C. The thermistor and ...
2
votes
2
answers
58
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Is a thermoplastic's glass state relevant for 3D printing extrusion?
From my understanding of FFF 3D printing, the glass state is usually used to heat the bed for better first layer adhesion. Other than that, does the extruder keep ex:PLA in a glass state for any ...
3
votes
1
answer
237
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Using 40W adapter on 30W heater cartridge?
Recently, I accidentally shorted out my heater cartridge when trying to do my first nozzle swap on my Prusa MK3S+. I just ordered a new E3D v6 Hotend with 30 W Heater Cartridge and it will be here in ...
0
votes
0
answers
221
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E1 printer halted error
I changed the hot end from the stock Creality CR-10 v2 to an e3D v6. Since it uses a type 5 thermistor, I had to change the firmware; after a quick search I found the TH3D firmware which I used, I did ...
4
votes
2
answers
605
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Changing a teflon tube inside a hotend, help with disassembly
I have an HBot 3D 1.1 printer (it's a CoreXY style printer, newer versions are produced by ZMorph). I think that a filament guide tube inside the hotend got damaged, resulting in decreased diameter, ...
0
votes
1
answer
702
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Creality CR-6 SE heatblock replacement
Recently I broke the threads inside the heatblock of my CR-6 SE by tightening the nozzle too much (it seemed not deep enough). No problem - bought a new hotend extruder kit for around 35 euros.
I put ...
1
vote
0
answers
740
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Pros and cons of the two(+?) kinds of bimetal heatbreaks
I just replaced my PTFE-lined heatbreak with a Slice Engineering Copperhead, and am mostly happy with the results, but in the process of buying it and learning not to jam it, I came across with ...
2
votes
2
answers
557
views
Are there any nozzles shorter than volcano but longer than MK8?
I have a semi-diy hotend setup on my MOOZ-2 (an obscure chinese printer). It requires that the total nozzle length (including threading) is longer than 15 mm. So far, I've been using Volcano nozzles ...
1
vote
1
answer
166
views
PID fails too hot temperature with new hotend on Tevo Tornado
I am new to 3D printing. I had a big issue with the full hotend: thermocouple broke, the fan broke, plastic everywhere... (I don't really know why as hundreds of prints were good before)
Anyway, I ...
2
votes
1
answer
161
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Hotend melting mount
I have an old custom 3D printer that I bought a new hotend for since the old one broke, and apparently, I made a mistake.
The old hotend had insulation on it that prevented it from melting the ...
2
votes
1
answer
448
views
Program Creality v2.2 board to use HEATER1 transistor for HEATER0
My CR10-S5 with Creality v2.2 mainboard recently suffered from the hotend heater transistor (MOSFET) failing short. After taking a look at the board, I tried to be clever and use the ...
0
votes
1
answer
771
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Hot end temperature keeps dropping on my Creality CR-10 S4
I have a Creality CR-10 S4.
What causes a "runaway please reset"?
I changed the heating element and the thermistor. When I heat the hot end, the temperature drops down to about 165 °C and I ...
2
votes
0
answers
184
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Anycubic i3 Mega layers don't stick together/are too thin
My Anycubic i3 Mega suddenly stopped printing properly. As you can see on the images attached, the printed filament seems to be too thin which causes the layers to not stick together.
I already:
...
3
votes
2
answers
2k
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Ender 3 hot end heater "stuck on"
Forgive this long-winded post, but I thought it would be helpful to include the back story leading up to a very scary situation on my Ender 3.
I was printing a job and everything started out fine just ...
3
votes
3
answers
2k
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Filament Jamming in Hotend. Why?
This has me stumped. I had been printing normally until this happened. Below is an expurgated version of my headache over two days. Some help would be appreciated.
Printer is Hypercube Evolution (...
5
votes
1
answer
11k
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When do you need a silicone sock? What problem does it solve?
I'm returning to 3d printing and there's all sorts of new things going on. One of which is a silicone sock. I suspect it's part of the engineering where you want to keep certain parts hot, and ...
1
vote
3
answers
134
views
How do I make the layers stick together more and warp less?
I have a Chiron from Anycubic and I have had some leveling issues in the last few weeks, however, I believe that I have sorted that. The layers attached to the base plate or the raft now come out very ...
1
vote
1
answer
2k
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K-Thermistor vs Ender 3 Stock Thermistor: Problem with bad reads
I have changed my hotend on my Ender 3 v2 with Dragonfly BMS.
In effect, because I wanted to reach higher temperatures, I also changed the thermistor with one that is 3mm wide and does not have the ...
3
votes
2
answers
598
views
Does abrasive filament require a special hotend?
I know that you need a special nozzle to extrude abrasive filament (carbon fibre, copper, ...). I do have such a nozzle (coated steel) and am printing carbon fibre and copper filament. Last time I ...
0
votes
2
answers
322
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OctoPrint suddenly no longer able to heat up hot end / extruder
My OctPrint and Monoprice Maker Select IIIP (A Wanhao i3 Duplicator Plus clone) were working fine, but suddenly today the hot end won't heat up anymore. I tried disconnecting the OctoPrint USB and ...
0
votes
1
answer
98
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Alunar Prusa i3 hot end replacement options
I had a print fail a while back and the filament covered the hot end. I attempted to replace the nozzle to fix the no filament issue but it looks like the unit has a cheap Chinese heater block that I ...
3
votes
1
answer
713
views
Anycubic i3 Mega no fans
I am having a bit of a nightmare trying to work out what is happening to the fans on my Mega Pro.
First off, the part cooling fan stopped working, then not long after the extruder fan also stopped ...
0
votes
2
answers
133
views
Hotend temperature goes to infinity after few layers
I have a "classic" home built 3D printer, Arduino Mega, RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin 2.0.
It worked, was put in storage, and now I am trying to get it running again.
During all of the testing ...
2
votes
1
answer
10k
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How to define bed dimensions in Marlin for custom carriage / hot end?
How would I begin measuring my hotend / carriage dimensions in Marlin to prevent my hotend from slamming into the frame?
I see in Marlin the 'define bed size' parameters
...
3
votes
0
answers
200
views
Silicone socks for nozzle only?
Is there a readily available silicone sock that goes just over the nozzle, to supplement an existing sock around the heat block body? I've seen a product for the E3D V6 that goes around the entire ...
0
votes
1
answer
89
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I think my extruder is hosed
I put a new glass bed on my Ender 3. After playing with the baby-steps and bed temperature I thought I had it ready to go. I started to print some rocket kits for the Cub Scouts and the job didn't ...
1
vote
1
answer
710
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3D printer clog. Nozzle keeps getting screwed in crooked
My 3D printer has got a clog, and i think it is because the nozzle hole has just recently started to only screw in crooked. I’m not sure how this happened. I have tried with multiple nozzles, but ...
1
vote
2
answers
276
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Hotends where heatbreak is not load-bearing?
Having started with an Ender 3, it just seemed natural to me that the heatbreak should not be load-bearing; Creality's stock hotend has 2 bolts holding the heat block to the heat sink, which of course ...
2
votes
2
answers
1k
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PLA Jamming- is the heat break too hot or too cold?
I’m getting nothing but jams with a new BCN3D Sigma R19 printer, printing PLA at 195 °C, two brands (BCN’s own brand and Monoprice orange). 6.5 mm retraction, as used in BCN’s PLA profile. Using their ...
1
vote
2
answers
222
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Way to add identity to an all metal hot end
Is there any convention on how to mark an all metal hotend to distinguish it from a hotend with a PTFE tube in the heatbreak? Once assembled for a German Riprap 3D printer, they look exactly the same ...
4
votes
2
answers
884
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E3D Clone heatbreak / nozzle leak issue
I've built a custom machine based on the AM8 (Anet A8 upgrade). I've got an E3D V6 clone hotend in, seems like a decent clone. I've replaced the heat break, heat block, and nozzle several times but ...
1
vote
2
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1k
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How does direct drive conversion allow higher print temperatures?
I have an Ender 3, currently in stock Bowden extruder configuration.
I want to be able to print nylon and TPU, both of which require temperature too high for the tolerance of the PTFE Bowden tube (as ...
4
votes
1
answer
1k
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Hotend is oozing out the sides and getting in the way of my print
My Ender 3 just started having this problem a couple of months ago. Prior to that the amount of excess filament showing up on the hotend was very minimal, but now it is oozing so much out of the top ...