15

read first When you use painters tape, you need to level your printer with the tape applied. You need to relevel if you change the tape type. Basics It's not any blue tape that printers love. There are basically two factors that make a tape useful: It has to stick during printing. Its surface has to allow the filament to stick to it. Let's look at some ...


13

Your nozzle is clearly too far from the bed. The plastic should be squashed down slightly. Some firmwares have an option where you can adjust the height of the nozzle "live" during the first layer, in Marlin this is called "babystepping". This can be very useful because you can get the height correct without having to mess with the physical leveling of the ...


12

First of all, not all hairsprays work. The chemicals in hairspray that causes the bonding is "VA/Crotonates Copolymer", it is also called "vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymer". Most commonly known as PVA, which is also a filament used as water soluble support material. This is a synthetic polymer created from monomers. When heated to a ...


11

There are several things you could try without spending much but even PLA will warp on an unheated bed. I had a Legacy Kossel that I switched to an acrylic bed and had many issues with warping and prints pulling off the bed. Some cheap things to try would be... Adding a brim to the print. Blue painters tape on the acrylic, remove the other material if ...


10

Great material but very hard to print as it does not stick easy to the build plate as it has a low friction coefficient to grip onto the heated bed. Also, the material sets quite fast, once the filament leaves the nozzle, it soon hardens so you need to be careful with retraction and Z-hop (leaving small peaks that will be hit later by the nozzle knocking ...


9

Most of the same reccomendations that apply for adhesion to a hot bed apply for a cold one. The first ones to come to mind: really dial in the nozzle height make the first layer taller than the rest (e.g.: 0.2mm if the rest of your print is 0.1mm) print the first layer very slowly print the first layer at higher temperature use a brim or a raft (on my ...


9

I think you may have used the wrong substance to clean your bed. Try using Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA). You may have left some residue behind from the soap, which is now interfering with adhesion. When that is done, ensure you've gone through the steps for bed leveling again. It's amazing how much of a difference proper bed leveling makes in adhesion. If it ...


8

This has nothing to do with the infill overlap, the image you've added looks as if the issue is related to non-bonding perimeters (it looks as if it is in between the 2nd and the 3rd perimeter). If that is the case look into this question. I've had this same issue, the problem is that if the perimeters do not touch, this is most probably caused by ...


8

What you describe is usually the result of using a too high of a part cooling fan rotational speed. Like ABS, PETG doesn't require much cooling (if needed at all that is). If you do cool too much, layers and perimeters do not bond optimally (you can get string cheese like printed parts on failure). Why should you use cooling for PETG? Cooling helps cool ...


7

Masking tape (and blue painter's tape) is coated with a wax-based release agent in order to prevent the tape sticking to itself on the roll. This release agent must be removed with an organic solvent in order to obtain good adhesion. Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol is good for this. Acetone will also work, but it is a much stronger solvent (which is not ...


7

There are multiple issues that cause this result. First, your nozzle is to far from the bed. This can be seen by the curly deposited filament on the build plate (I guess that is the brim or the skirt). Please properly level the bed and position the nozzle at a distance of a plain A4 paper as best as possible (should be doable as you have a glass sheet that ...


6

It's not a bad idea, and you should try it. But only on prints with some height, because: The goal of the heated bed is to ensure adhesion for the first few layers. Without the heat on the bottom side of the layer, the layers above will pull those layers with it as they cool, causing the warp that you see. When your bed is warmer than the layers above, ...


6

Eureka! All of the other answers and suggestions on this post were all very helpful, and would likely be the right answers 90+% of the time, but they didn't give me any relief. I spent a bunch of time watching YouTube videos about 3D printing and I started to notice a difference in size of the lines of plastic being laid down on the build plate. In the ...


6

Instead of masking tape, I would use BuildTac or some other similar surface. These are self-adhesive and come in various sizes. You can cut them down if they are too large for your bed. I'm using it on my Monoprice Select Mini with a heated bed and it works fine. I did have to experiment with the PLA I'm using in order to make sure it didn't adhere too ...


6

You should reduce the air gap option called "Raft Air Gap". Printing ABS optimally requires an enclosure of the printer, wind and draft cause temperature changes which could lead to layer separation.


5

Your photo has shadows which seem to suggest that your tape layer has some wrinkles. That won't help. Try removing that tape and laying down the fabulous blue painter's tape. If you read any dedicated forum for plastic extruder printers, you'll find plenty of claims that X or Y is the best way to guarantee adhesion. Some folks swear by glass+gluestick,...


5

This is very likely caused by an uneven bed. It's probably lower in that particular corner: the nozzle is further from the bed, so the filament isn't squished down as much and therefore releases more easily from the bed. Your bed should have 3 or 4 screws that you can adjust, you should loosen the screw in the corner that is giving you trouble.


5

Options to check (in order of probability of occurenece and success): Z-calibration Maybe you should perform calibration again. It's possible that nozzle is now too close which causes the filament is spread on the heatbed, which causes that the bottom surface is "too flat". It means all separate filament tracks are spilled and they create "glass flat" ...


5

Mick (other answerer) is spot-on with his advice on how to prep the masking tape to work well as an adhesion enhancer. Additionally: what material is the surface of your printing bed, and is the bed heated? If it is, just know that you may want to try with both heat on and off if you are using tape (it works worse for me and at least a friend of mine with ...


5

I tested Kapton tape for PLA, ABS, PETG and XT. I know it works for other materials as well. What you need to keep in mind is that many materials only stick to Kapton tape well if you use a heated bed. The advantage of Kapton tape in comparison to other materials is its heat endurance and mechanical stability. It protects the glass underneath, while you ...


5

No, the bed does not look too close to the nozzle, it could well be that it is too far from the nozzle. However, the brim looks okay, but the method you follow is questionable. Using a feeler gauge of 0.2 mm is larger than the recommended paper method which is in the order of half that value (0.1 mm). You compensate this larger leveling gap with ...


5

To answer your question, it doesn't have to be blue tape! To be honest, tape is not my favorite bed adhesion solution, there are plenty other options that work better than tape. Often you'll see references to blue painters tape (of a certain brand) to be used as a bed adhesion layer because many people have good experience with that. I have tried several ...


5

A new day, a new nozzle, an old result! EDIT The success was a one off. The problem remains! Heat on the heated bed seems to differ a lot in different areas. Just using my hands to feel it since I have no IR-camera.


4

Without more information we cannot address what is causing your edges to turn up. This can depend on the model being printed, the process, the material, the bed, and the method used to bond it to the bed. As far as the initial question, a fan will most certainly ensure uneven cooling. The middle of the print is, and will remain, the warmest. If you want ...


4

I'd recommend using the "skirt" function if you're not already. The idea is to print a few perimeter layers around where your part will be, but not actually touching your part. Most slicers support this and you can choose how much skirt you want to print. This addresses the issue you mention, and it purges old filament that has spent too much time in ...


4

I have only experienced PLA "super sticking" if the print bed is allowed to cool too much. I would suggest running a mild preheat to your bed when you find a print has stuck and the bed is cool. (What you set the temp to for the preheat would depend on the filament in question but start low and work up and you may find a sweet spot/release point for your ...


4

You got a few things happening. First that temp seems low. I am printing PLA at 215.. but there are a lot of factors. Start with a simple calibration thin wall test. Which is just a wall, no body. From there your bed could be closer. Maybe. I don't think that's really the issue. Slower speed and heat will make more of a difference. That said. I take a ...


4

I've been struggling to work out what is wrong with the process where you claim to be leveling the bed OK (and the print is starting in mid air). Now I remember I had exactly the same problem with my first prints. I think you are leveling OK, but getting some binding in the Z-axis. As the head jumps to start printing, it goes up, then down (but not as far ...


4

I use a product called 3DLAC but I suppose it's regular hairspray. Makes my PLA stick to the heated bed like a charm. After cooling down the print can be removed from the bed with ease. Only today, after a few thousand prints the glass bed of my printer broke. But I suppose this is because we didn't have enough patience to let the bed cool down to room ...


4

If you can upgrade your bed to a magnetic bed with spring steel top all the problems of breaking parts loose go away, the method is you take the spring steel plate off the magnets and twist it gently to allow your part to break loose. There is a commercial product going under the name MagHold. I am not affiliated with them but really like the idea and have ...


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