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1

Yes you can edit many parameters in Cura that may help with your problem. However, I believe an easier fix to this problem may be to either apply some glue or masking tape to the bed before you try to change Cura settings since the problem only occurs with just one filament type..


0

If your having first layer adhesion issues: Please try one (or more) of the following (Start with #1), and remember that all of them are equally important! Make sure your bed is level (Maybe use a leaving stick (or whatever those bubble things are called)) Be sure the bed is clean (I recommend glass cleaner 1-3 squirts and then a light scrub of a paper ...


-1

Please try one (or more) of the following: Change the temperature of your heated bed (50 - 60 °C) Check your nozzle height (0.15 - 0.25 mm is what I use) Make sure your bed is level (Maybe use a leaving stick (or whatever those bubble things are called)) Use adhesion. Start with painter's tape (least damaging, easy to remove), then use a glue stick or ...


2

PLA is a forgiving filament, you can even print such filament without a heated bed. Although there are differences in quality between brands, PLA shouldn't need a raft to be printed. Hatchbox filament is not considered as a low quality type of filament; it is economical and has been around since 2013. A raft is a structured platform that is specifically used ...


2

It is unlikely this is a filament material issue since many of us have used Hatchbox PLA without this issue. This is a first layer adhesion issue. Your bed may not be clean, or the bed may have had an adhesion layer you cleaned off. Your nozzle may be too high on the first layer. Your bed my not be level. Glue sticks can help adhesion. Glue sticks ...


1

I like the idea of printing a holder, for the part-it holds the part laterally and indexes the new printing. I would maybe model it and slice it separately. Then model and slice the text as a first layer thing. It is important the slicer doesn’t think the text is floating in the air, or it will interpret it as a bridge, and do weird stuff. Don’t use skirt ...


2

I have not done this, but I believe this is the best method and I want to test it at some point soon: Model a negative for the footprint of the part you want to adhere to the bed, in the orientation you want to adhere it, with just a few mm of height, and clearance suitable for your printer (probably around 0.25 mm) in the XY plane, and print that with thick ...


1

Adherence is the 3D printer's worst enemy. I use painter's tape, but I heard that you can if you need to remove and re-stick it back, heat the part lightly with a lighter and re-stick it back to the bed. Never tried but I'm guessing you would need to cool the bed, heat the part, and stick it back then reheat the bed and continue to print. Glue sticks can ...


2

There could be multiple reasons for this happening, the most probable cause would be that the bed isn't leveled properly, if you have an auto leveling bed I'd suggest that you give that a run through, I also found it personally helpful with mine (Ender 5 Plus) that if I did the manual leveling, so the four corners, then go and do the auto leveling. Another ...


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