New answers tagged adhesion
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Heating the bed didn't help much, but Someone suggested using the flush cutters which pryed it up just enough... to get the bigger chunk off.
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Heat up your bed to the print temperature; maybe even as hot as 100 °C. This will soften the ABS and make it easier to scrape off. It will distort a print to remove it this way, but is good for cleaning.
Less preferred method: Acetone will dissolve ABS but may be rough on your PEI, even causing it to lose its bond. It also evaporates very quickly and is ...
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Try using some halogen bulbs (for example car healights) with a heat resistant shiny reflector to increase the temperature of the printed part without having to increase the air temperature. You can easily reach 90 °C with 4 bulbs (one per corner, pointed to the center).
And until you find a good print settings, I would still stick with 110-120% line width.
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From your description and particularly the photos, the source of your layer splitting is an extrusion problem at the particular location, likely an indirect result of the geometry (making it mostly repeatable when the same geometry is printed again). Some possible causes for this include:
Too much material lost to oozing in model interior just prior to this ...
answered Jul 18 at 17:53
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These are more like backups for when the part gets stuck, but you could try spraying that part where it meets the bed with liquid computer duster. The shrinkage from cooling usually helps to release the part from the bed. You could also try heating the bed very hot to save the bed at the expense of the part.
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The layer adhesion with Polymax PETG at 260 °C was great so I didn't go any higher.
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I got a roll of Hatchbox PETG and the prints are fantastic. Small test prints don't break along the layers even at higher fan speeds. The problem was the Polymax PETG. I took a look at the TDS for it and the impact strength on standing samples was only 29% of the standing ones. I believe the Polymax PETG just has inherent layer adhesion problems.
Please ...
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