Most of the same reccomendations that apply for adhesion to a hot bed apply for a cold one. The first ones to come to mind:
really dial in the nozzle height
make the first layer taller than the rest (e.g.: 0.2mm if the rest of your print is 0.1mm)
print the first layer very slowly
print the first layer at higher temperature
use a brim or a raft (on my ...
This definitely sounds like a problem with your wiring if you have a genuine Anet A6, the genuine A6 comes with a 12864 full graphic display. For sure, you are missing 1 flat ribbon cable (see below). Maybe this is causing the LCD not to light up and the SD card not functioning. As the "fan 2" is working, the board is powered by the power supply (this fan is ...
Your question is based on an incorrect premise. Just because the specifications list "minimum layer height: 0.1mm" does not mean the printer is unable to print thinner layers. It just means that the manufacturer is willing to guarantee that printing 0.1mm layers is possible, or that - for whatever reason - the marketing department decided to list 0.1mm in ...
I'm not familiar with the Anet A6 specifically, but as many other things in a 3D printer, the minimum layer height is co-determined by a number of factors. For the Z-axis the factors I am aware of are:
The number of steps in the stepper motor
The geometry of the lead screw
The tolerance with which the lead screw has been machined
The microstep settings
Skynet3D is an obsolete fork of Marlin Firmware that was created because the displays of the Anet printers have a different layout in terms of pin assignment. When the code stabilized, the fork of Marlin merged into the main code base. Configuration files for the Anet A8 and A6 have been added, see here for the A6, so when you flash Marlin to your board, be ...
The UK uses 230 V mains voltage. The 220 V designation is from the past, Europe is now using 230 V. You do not have to worry about the frequency.
You should place the switch to 220 V and plug the cord into the socket. The printer should start immediately booting (cycling) the printer firmware, the LCD should light up and the cold end ...
The Anet A6 does not have a power switch. To power the printer you need to put the power cord into the socket. To "safely power off" the printer you need to pull the plug from the socket. You can even pull the plug during usage when it appears to go wrong (e.g. when the nozzle is digging into the bed). The printer runs a continuous running program/...
I am sorry to inform you, but your picture looks like your hotend has a broken heatbreak. The heatbreak is the screw that connects the heater block with he coldend.
Your first picture clearly shows that the tp 2 or 3 windings of the screw are ripped off. Probably from tightening the nut against the codend carriage and this way applying tremendous force - ...
I'm posting the answer here hoping that will help anyone that encounters a similar issue. A post on another site indicated that these boards are known to be problematic.
After some digging, I came up with the schematics of this part of the mainboard :
I'm not an electronics genius, but clearly it's not the capacitor; so that leaves the pull-up resistor or ...
You shouldn't calibrate the steps/mm for the X, Y, and Z axes. Just use the default settings which are based on the theoretical values for the given belts/leadscrews/threaded rods.
The mistake is in assuming that the error in the dimensions of the 20x20x20 calibration cube are purely due to the steps/mm setting. Due to a variety of reasons (inconsistent ...
If the printed material moves with the nozzle, you might have several problems at hand, e.g.:
nozzle to bed distance and
Nozzle to bed distance needs to be the thickness of a plain A4 or Letter paper. This needs to be at the same distance (when pulling the sheet of paper you need to feel a little drag) at the complete area of the ...
With marlin firmware:
source here: filiament sensor config
#define FIL_RUNOUT_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the sensor.
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_FIL_RUNOUT // Uncomment to use internal pullup for filament runout pins if the sensor is defined.
What you are after is a small common mod called... filament guide (as your question title!).
The first one to pop up in my google search was this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:346736 which in turn is a make of this model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2242903
Also, a couple of tricks that help on my printers (YMMV):
manually straighten the ...
Many printers have a problem with inserting filament into the extruder. Cutting it at an angle is a huge help. It is also very possible that you have a cog or a bad extruder nozzle.
This link could be of some help: Extruder is not feeding.
This is a shot in the dark, but the vast majority of problems with a heating bed stopping to work is usually at the cables/connectors interface.
This is because in printers like the A6, the cable/connector is subject to constant mechanical stress, and - since metal fatigue is a thing - either the solder or the cable core cracks.
You should make good use of ...
You need to do two or three things:
Print a holder or bracket for the probe, if your probe did not come with one, and looking at the eBay item listing, it doesn't appear to include a bracket. There are a number of designs out there, take a look at thingiverse, for example:
Installing the BLtouch on Anet A6 - This one includes a PDF guide.
Anet A6 Autolevel ...
look for MK8 or V6 nozzles that are for 1.75mm filament.
but to answer your question the exact threading is M6 x 1mm thread pitch
both MK8 and e3d v6 nozzles use m6 x 1mm pitch
Source: manual measurement of both my brass mk8 and stainless steel v6 nozzle
Welcome to 3d Printing!
as this is a first day of the printer there could be a list of items...
First thing first: disconnect all peripherals, so we can test mainboard.
Before connecting PSU we can connect mainboard via usb and see if it starts (I will probably use a power bank in that case to avoid burning USB (worse case scenario)).
Then you can use cura ...
@Oscar was correct, so long as the switch is set at 220 V, the printer will turn on. I am adding this answer to help anyone else who has a similar problem.
I strongly recommend that you buy a multimeter if you have any power supply issues, as this helped me to figure out what was wrong.
There were three issues that needed to be rectified before my printer ...
Assuming you are using a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.1 layers are very close to the edge of what you can do. As @PR90 said, a Z adjustment will probably help.
My process for this:
If you have a heated bed, preheat before levelling.
set a large brim on the print, slow-ish first level (about 40mm/s)
start with the bed levelled normally, and start the print
wait for ...
You likely need to re-calibrate the Z-height of your nozzle. The reason that a lot less plastic is coming out of the nozzle at 0.1mm is that the actual gap is likely smaller than 0.1mm. This makes the print bed act essentially like a partial "lid" on the nozzle which occludes the outflow of molten plastic.
Simplify3D has information on their website ...
The A6 3D Printer
Installation Instruction shows that there is an endstop, part 2-7-2, page 4, included in the kit:
It needs to be fitted as shown on page 8:
Page 36 shows the correct length of the wires, which should prevent the wires being pulled out of the sensors/switches:
Page 38 shows where the Z-axis endstop is attached to the controller board:
There is no such thing as a software endstop for the 3D printer. When you power a printer the print head can be located at every X, Y, Z position (usually, Z is at the print height of your last print, X is at the minimum X, and Y is at an arbitrary location determined by the last print).
This is exactly why we need endstops, either mechanical, optical or ...
Fresh 3M blue painter’s tape coated in a watered down solution of Elmer’s white glue works wonders - even when cold - for PLA.
The tape needs to be re-applied and coated for each print for it to really stick, but it beats every other print surface I have tested for PLA other than PEI @ 70 °C. I’m guessing it has something to do with microscopic ...
Also check your speed settings.
1st layer should always be printed 50% of the normal speed, if not less. (my choice is 20mm/s)
If your overall printing speed is really fast, collision with already printed lines may be the issue. You can try either slow down movement/print or avoid/retract over peripherals.
Any hairspray containing neodecanoate copolymer ...
This picture shows the correct wiring for a British 13A mains plug:
The green/yellow wire must always be connected to the earth terminal (at the top of the plug). This is most important, and will prevent electrocution if something goes wrong.
The brown (live) wire should be connected to the fuse, and the blue wire to the remaining terminal. It is true that,...
The manual appears to be available here, Installation Instruction_Anet A6 3D Printer - Elektor
However, according to this comment from Hard copy of the build guide?, there is a mistake in the PDF of the manual, with respect to the heatbed, and as such, it is better to follow the videos:
I find it is better to use the 3 videos:
3D Printer Instruction--Anet ...
Eventually it was a mixture of things that sort of solved this.
Setting the Z-offset a bit more tight helped some
Probing with more gridpoints helped
Instead of using glue, I used painterstape. Way easier to refresh and easier to take prints off. I wanted to try kapton tape, but painterstape was good enough for now.
Manually leveling the bed to a better ...
So the new silicone buffers raised the bed by 5 mm? When this happens, you should raise the endstop also with 5 mm. Else the printer will go down to the Z endstop that is effectively 5 mm below the level of the bed. I guess the buffers cannot be compressed by 5 mm, so you need to move the endstop up to the level your buffer compression is in reach of.