How about the Ultimaker clips? Ultimaker uses 2 mm heat bed and 4 mm glass, that should be within reach by bending the clips a bit. They have quite a low profile/footprint.
These clamps are very cheap and can be found on those typical auction or Chinese sites.
Alternatively, you can also tape the glass to the aluminium bed using kapton tape if ...
You should run the fan at what you expect it to be at the majority of the time it is printing. If you tune at 100% fan and never use a fan then it will be too aggressive, if you tune at 0% fan and use the fan then you will struggle to maintain/reach temperature.
It's okay to leave the filament in the hot end, as long as you let it cool down with the hot end cooling fan running.
That's not an issue, you can simply leave it in the hot end. The only "end of print" clogs usually occur when leaving the hot end hot for a while - allowing the filament to drip out - and then retract the filament without ...
None of the answers address your question to solve it! The only sensible contribution comes from a comment of @TomvanderZanden.
For the sensor to stay within the limits of the bed (considering the offset of the sensor and the size of the hotend carriage) you need to define where the sensor (plus carriage) may go to (to keep the sensor also on the bed, you ...
As you just flashed your own Marlin, you probably have the marlin.ino and its associated files in the Arduino IDE set for your Processor and board and know how to work with them to some degree. This is just the short version where to find what you need to change the bed size, if the marlin.ino is based on the marlinfw-release.
The 5V is derived from the 12V supply by a linear regulator (L7805CD, DPAK package with 100 C/W thermal resistance). The maximum you can draw from it (without overheating the regulator) is around 200mA. Considering the electronics on the board are already using some power, the maximum would be around a 150mA fan but this would have the regulator running near ...
The answer by fred_dot_u is fine for small prints with relative low cost or batch producing, where a single part is needed several times. But if you print something big or unique it's not cost effective. Slowing down the complete print is also not very time efficient.
In Cura there an option called Mininum layer time, which addresses this problem:
This is the throat block for direct drive extrusion, Anet8 is a cheap clone of Prusa printers, so it's easy to find parts for Anet printers.
This is one extruder kit that may help your needs, 1 Unidades Impresora 3D makerbot MK8 Extrusora De extrusión de Aluminio Bloque de DIY Kit para Reprap i3. This is a link for Aliexpress - of course there are other ...
I had a similar problem last week where the thermostat's heat shrink was being melted by the block and the two wires were touching. I fixed this by securing the thermistor and putting a thermal insulator between the block and the wires. I also put a small piece of heat shrink between the wires to insulate them so they will never touch. Thank you and I hope ...
Why don't you download one of the many casings that are found on Thingiverse that house the Anet electronics board and take measurements from those cases.
I measured it from my own casing I designed a while ago:
Hole distances are 86.3 mm and 91.3 mm (center to center)
I have the Anet A8, I confirm the threads are Tr8x8(p2). This is explained as "Tr" for trapezoidal thread followed by the nominal diameter in mm. The digits after the "x" denotes the lead of the screw (how much does the nut advance per revolution). The value between the brackets "p2" denotes the pitch. This means that the screw has 8 (lead) / 2 (pitch) = 4 ...
This is a known problem of the Anet A8 display, it is caused by electrical interference. Pressing the middle button will refresh the display.
This is prone to happen when doing long prints.
There are some reported successes of people inserting ferrite beads or toroidal rings.
No, this is not a firmware issue, this is a hardware issue.
Basically, your setup is the following:
The overhang of the bed, assuming the bearings are in the center, equals (300-105)/2 = 97.5 mm on each side. So the distance from the leftmost bearing face (when bed is at y = 0 mm) to the center of the Y rods assembly equals 300 - 97.5 = 202.5 mm. Knowing this distance for the other side of the center to the right ...
Too bad you broke the acrylic plate (nice temporary fix though), but you can easily print a replacement part once your machine is up and running.
Probe positioning is defined in the Marlin configuration as:
* +-- BACK ---+
* | |
* L | (+) P | R -- probe (20,20)
* E | | I
* F | (-) N (+) | G -- nozzle (10,10)
Cura has some settings for the support structure which may help. Somewhere in the full Preferences menu is a setting for "gap at top" or equivalent wording. If you increase that gap slightly, the support material will be less strongly bonded to the part. Be careful, since a huge gap could lead to bridging problems.
Special characters like Ä Ö or Ü in the stl-filename resulted in Ultimaker Cura creating a comment of the filename in the g-code that read like
This apparently could not be parsed by the Anet A8, leading to an error and halt.
The UK uses 230 V mains voltage. The 220 V designation is from the past, Europe is now using 230 V. You do not have to worry about the frequency.
You should place the switch to 220 V and plug the cord into the socket. The printer should start immediately booting (cycling) the printer firmware, the LCD should light up and the cold end ...
That looks like horrible underextrusion. Either the extruder steps/mm are way off, but more likely is that your nozzle is clogged (because I wouldn't expect the steps/mm to be this far off). It's also possible that the temperature you're printing at is inappropriate for the filament you're using. Also, make sure that the fan that is cooling the heatsink of ...
Sorted. Repetier Server was hijacking my com port. Uninstalled it and Repetier host worked fine. As I have no desire to monitor or control prints remotely I have no use for the server software.
Hope that helps others.
I had the same issue. Hot-end temperature reading stuck at 209 degrees even with hot-end thermistor disconnected or swapped with bed thermistor on the Anet A8 mainboard.
After ordering and swapping the AtMega1284p (using jtagice3 and hot-air soldering station) and the 4.7 Kohm resistor (which measured 2.06Kohm on the board and 4.7kohm off the board) to no ...
It could be as Carl Witthoft said, that the thermistor is broken. But it looks like the PID is not calibrated correctly. It probably can reach higher T's but stops, because the P portion is not high enough.
Anyways, before printing use a software of your choice (Repetier, Pronterface...) and perform a PID tuning specified here:
I was having the same issue as you and know what you are talking about and there is a file that you should print that will help you (I have printed this).
While the file says for the Anet A6, I think the extrude are the same on the Anet A8. It goes under the gear and bearing and guides the filament to the hole. Should work well for you.
Other things that ...
*75 is the checksum value, (a method for verifying the integrity of the transmitted information).
RepRap wiki gcode : checksum
There is probably an option to not use/disable checksum generation in repetier/slicers, however this may only be advantageous for use with code run from the sdcard as it is extra processing (and probably less relevant when not ...
Several things to consider:
Nothing is perfectly flat. It is flat within a tolerance. The bed you have now is flat to within a tolerance. If you want a flatter bed, you are going to have to specify how flat.
As @mac mentioned, aluminum is bendable; so, what once was flat can be made un-flat and the other way around. Note: Your problem may not be your ...
I recently went to the same issue on my CoreXY printer (culprit was uneven belt tension in the 2 belts), but you have a Prusa style printer like my first Anet A8 printer.
If you just found out (because you are printing large models now) but always had this issue it could be frame related. You should check your printer and try to fix the geometry that is ...
You can use G92 to change the coordinates the machine "thinks" it's at. If just after homing, you apply
the machine now thinks it's at X = -10, while in reality it's at X = 0. This results in everything thereafter behaving as if it is shifted in the positive X direction by 10 mm (since if you then commanded a move to X = 1 the machine would move ...
The picture is not very clear so this can be related to either:
Overextrusion at the bottom layer (slicer setting) or an incorrect bed leveling (bed to nozzle distance too small), or
this could be the effect called "elephant foot" that is primarily caused by printers with a heated bed. This issue is related to unbalanced printing parameters: heat bed ...
I used a different heat break with a PFTE lining inside. After that it ran smoothly.
Probably what was happening was that my filament was getting too hot and started to stick on the full metal heat break.