# Tag Info

5

According to Anycubic this printer uses the E3D V5 type hotend as can be seen from the linked video of the AnyCubic Mega: The brass nozzle you see is fully compatible with the E3D v6 nozzle and can be found on those typical auction and Chinese websites by looking for "E3D nozzle". They are also available from E3D directly, the designer/creator of the E3D ...

4

The proper answer could be not related to Fusion, as you already noticed. I suppose the issue is that the Ultrabase surface (or any other glass surface you have installed) was not cleaned during the first month? So it should be cleaned from grease and possibly dust. The general cleaning method is to use isopropyl alcohol (IPA) from time to time (btw. I am ...

4

All printers will have some fluctuation and it's not a concern. This is similar to the fluctuation you'll see in your home temperature around the thermostat setting. There are a couple reasons. One is that the feedback loop (thermistor to control board to heater to extruder block) will always have some lag. Another is that most systems have built-in "...

4

Normally, such patterns are caused by too close printing to the bed (nozzle to bed distance too small), but considering the not fully flattened out extrusion lines (on glass I get a mirror shine fully closed surface) this does not seem to be the reason; you could try to increase the gap a little, in Ultimaker Cura this is very easily done with the Z Offset ...

3

Let's look at the factors that can help us get support parts printed and removed: access dimensions/size bonding debonding access Support structure has to be accessed to be removed. Tree support could help in this. An alternative would be soluable support, which is still accessible if buried deep in a part - as the solvent would be all that needs to access ...

3

Keeping the print bed clean as mention in other answers is key. Dish soap (without any additives) and water to wash away oils from your hands the printer itself is the first step. Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) is also good to keep the bed clean between prints, but when you run into adhesion problems, wash with soap first. IPA in many cases just move the oils ...

3

You retraction settings may be too high. Direct drive extruders require less retraction than Bowden style extruders. Typical retraction settings for direct drive are 1.5mm at 50mm/s and for Bowden, 4mm at 50mm/s. The speed usually makes more of a difference than distance beyond a certain point. You can get away with smaller retraction settings if you ...

3

One method that works at our makerspace and also has worked for a user on another 3d printing forum is to use a 50:50 mix of water and denatured alcohol. While the print bed is warm, apply some to the perimeter of the print at the bed surface. Allow it to cool, try to remove the print. If it does not work, reheat the bed and repeat until you are able to ...

2

There are 3 general factors about print adhesion you always have to keep in mind: Have a sufficient surface for the print to stick. A pyramid printed on the tip can't print properly. Check the leveling of your bed occasionally and relevel the bed. By removing prints, one can easily unlevel it over time without noticing it. Clean your print bed from ...

2

There are a few issues that could cause this. Roughness in your z-axis lead screw as pointed out by @TheLamestUsername is a leading contender I would say. I'd also extended that answer to include checking the belts for your X and Y axes as well as making sure that the rods the gantry slide on are smooth since the fault appears to be in about the same X-Y ...

2

From your images can be seen that: Your nozzle is too far from the bed (the lines are not touching), so you either need to level with a less thick paper or allow for more friction between the paper and the nozzle. There is also a plugin for Cura to set a Z-offset. You need to enable Combing mode = Not in Skin and possibly fine tune your retraction settings. ...

2

Try disabling the "Union Overlapping Volumes" option on Mesh Fixes section. Worked for me.

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First, you should change the nozzle diameter setting, not just the line width setting, in Cura. Both are involved in determining extrusion. Line width can be less than or greater than nozzle size, but setting it much larger or smaller is not going to work well. I suspect your main problem, though, is print speed. The area of the 0.25 mm nozzle orifice is ...

2

If there are 2 slots for temperature measurements, you don't need to solder anything, just plug the thermistor from one into the other and switch pins in the firmware. This board is basically a RAMPS 1.4 board, it includes the pins_RAMPS.h header file, so in order to switch the T0 with the T1 temperature port, you need to change: // // Temperature Sensors // ...

1

If part of the print is only attached to the buildplate through support structures, and it keeps coming off, the support structures are either not adequately adhering to the print, or they're geometrically insufficient, in the sense that they only attach at small points around which the print sitting on top can tilt like a lever with forces from the printing ...

1

A "hack" I used was to print with a raft. I decreased the width of the raft in Cura so I'm not printing with excess plastic and the raft ensures my print always sticks. Another thing to look at is to look at the print speed, a slightly slower speed might help with the build plate adhesion. This is something I noticed from printing with a raft For ...

1

I have had good luck using dental floss. If you can get it under the edge of the print, then you can pull it all the way through and prints come off easily.

1

So it looks like I finally resolved that issue. I compiled a complete new firmware based on the Marlin bugfix branch. Before I was working on the sources provided in the Bigtreetech GitHub. I started from scratch and put all the settings I needed into the Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h. Now all rings are gone. Either there was really a bug or ...

1

The plastic looks ok. If you get the tools and pins to work on the connector, you could replace problem pins. Many of us build our own cables. If we verify the connector is Molex, you might need calipers to measure dimensions to get the correct size. You won't need expensive ones. I've seen digital calipers from \$10 to \$20. Have you already verified ...

1

I recently had similar problem with my Prusa i3 MK2.5. It was not able to maintain the set tempereature. I measured the heater catridge (which was new) and its resistance was correct (about 4 ohms). So I changed the hotend MOSFET on the stock board with no result. So I changed the heater catridge for the older one and the issue was gone. Since you have ...

1

Heating PLA even to 60°C will make it pliable and may affect dimensional accuracy; 100°C is likely to make that severe. Being stuck to the bed and thus constrained by it might help some, but I think it's a bad idea. If your PLA is hard to remove, you probably have bed leveling issues. PLA should remove easily after cooling from reasonable print-time bed ...

1

I would recommend using an actual CAD/CAM program, such as Autodesk Fusion 360, instead of using a 3d model program. Not only will this be able to directly export you finished model to Cura, and the models are made in a way that works with a 3d printing slicer, there will be more help around 3D printing for it. Although it is slightly difficult to use to ...

1

The first value, which is in your pictures 179 and 184 °C, is the measured value. The 0 °C value is the set value. It looks like the temperature reading from the hotbed is not working correctly. So there are two possible issues: The cable on the backside leading to the hotplate might be damaged. This seems to be a common issue with this printer. ...

1

I had a similar problem some time ago. The problem in my case was, that in the slicer I had a minimum layer time, which was pausing the printer until that time had passed. I can't remember the name of the settings and I'm not at home right now, but the slicer can either print full speed and pause or it can slow down, to maintain a minimum layer time. I guess ...

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What worked well for me in avoiding stringing is to increase the travel move speeds significantly, disable Z-hop and to decrease printing temperature

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Definition: Sparse layer fill (called stuttering by the OP) Why a sparsely filled support structure... (at the support bottom) Support structures are added by Ultimaker Cura as the first part of the layer before it progresses to the rest of the print object. The bottom part of the support structure is definitely showing under extrusion, as if there was not ...

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