Let's look at the graphs. First: you should swap firmware for one that has Thermal Runaway, as, as it is, running about 15 minutes with 28 K less than the printer is ordered to work at is a clear indication that there is no Thermal runaway protection in place - it should have tripped over that long ago! But there is more!
But this graph ...
The right-hand coordinate system is the most used system on printers. So, when facing the front of the printer, the most common arrangement using a is:
X+ will move the print head to the right
Y+ will move the print head away from you (towards the back of the printer)
For a Delta printer, when facing the printer, the Z pillar/tower should be at the back, ...
It might be a good idea to verify that there is a minimum amount of backlash in your system. With the hotend cold, home the printer, and then using your fingers try to move the effector in all six directions (up, left, right, forward, back) and note if there is any play. There should be as close to zero as possible.
If there is any play, then figure out ...
I assume you just assembled it.
Check the grub-screws in your pulleys at the top (remove blue covers). They are often too loose or even lost, causing a slipping belt.
After that, check your belt-tension, not too loose not too tight and the same for the three towers.
Also check that the wheels are not tightened too much.
It is actually best to break ...
A few tenths of a millimeter are pretty common for 3D printed parts; these are related to the printer hardware. These inaccuracies can be exaggerated by over- or under-extrusion; e.g. if too much filament is extruded, it increases the outer dimensions (and decreases the inner dimensions of holes).
The images show some signs of over-extrusion, maybe a little ...