Polarity matters, sometimes. Be especially mindful of the wires from your power supply to the board, as getting those the wrong way around will definitely cause damage. Heated beds and extruders are not polarity sensitive, and can go in either way. Fans are polarized, but will probably survive if you get them backwards - they just won't run. Stepper motors ...
Look up Arduino Ramps 1.4
Following the programing is all done for you in the firmware. That said you can edit it. Just open the firmware files -- it is compiled when you upload them. Generally however one usually sticks to the preferences header alone..
Over all you are ...
The motherboard definition in configuration.h should be written like:
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_GEN_L
actually the word MOTHERBOARD was missing and there is no need to write 53 //MKS GEN L at the end.
The number definition is declared in boards.h - you just confused the two files, indeed you should not forget to define the motherboard constant itself....
For direct low-level printer control from a terminal, without specific software, I found the following solution with full credit thanks to user: http://stackexchange.com/users/6463673/meuh
Sharing here as may be of use to other users in the 3d Printing community, and I was unable to source a "complete" solution to this elsewhere.
Create a custom ...
A Delta printer requires constant complex calculations to produce straight lines while printing. The firmware, therefore, spends most of its time figuring out the step and timing sequence, and only the little remaining time between interrupts and these calculations is given to the user interface.
Marlin doesn't document any configuration parameters that ...
I'd say polarity and voltage are the biggest things -- about all you can do is double- and triple-check everything; then check again....
Be very careful about where you feed in 12V power (mainly for heaters and fans), vs. 5v (for the Arduino).
In many cases I found it unclear which way +/- went going out from the board (the inputs on my boards were at ...
Take a look at Ryan's answer to my question. I believe the MightBoard is based on the Mega 2560, so it is possible that some of the other components could have been damaged. If you look at the comments below Ryan's answer, we discussed the possibility of the processor itself being damaged. I had attempted this fix on two different MightBoards and they both ...
While Star Wind's answer is best as far as addressing what was not asked, but was probably the intent of the question, for educational purposes:
To control the printer you need an microcontroller (most popular are Arduino) which will interface with the motor drivers. Microcontrollers cannot output the current needed to control the motors, so motor drivers (...
It sounds a bit like you are having (additional) grounding issues1. Are your MacBook and the RAMPS using the same ground, i.e. are they using the same mains circuit?
If you are using the same power strip, then the next thing to check would be that the PSU on the printer correctly grounded (at the bottom of the unit).
From David Crocker's superlative blog, ...
you can use screen for that. Open a terminal window and type screen /dev/ttyUSB0 115200 The general form is screen serialdevice baudrate You will then see everything that the printer sends. Everything you type will be send to the printer.
Have you tried plugging in the plugging the Z and/or Y end stops into the X position? This could tell you if it's actually the end stops or the board.
EDIT: Also, if the Z and/or Y end stops seem to work just fine in the X position, ensure you have the X position filled and try the other end stops in the Z & Y positions. It may be a case where having ...
I don't know that printer. But Arduino has a feature that a USB connection causes a reset. The Idea is that this helps when doing software update as the Arduino Boot loader will be active for one second after that reset.
This can be disabled, but needs hardware modification.
I found the issue. When the hotend and bed are at temps for PLA everything works fine but at temps for ABS the Z offset would get all messed up. After a bunch of testing I was able to track it down to a single gcode statment G1 Z15.0 F6000
At the higher temps my Z stepper skips steps at that feed rate.
The "Custom FDM printer" machine settings I used for ...
Movement of the steppers is controlled by the jerk and acceleration settings. Both are controlled/set in the Marlin configuration file.
* Default Max Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s
* (Maximum start speed for accelerated moves)
* Override with M201
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
If you check the Mightyboard RevE files on Thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16058/#files) you will find the schematics and PCB files (.sch and .brd) for the version of the board used in Replicator 1s and (with some minor mods) most clones. The Atmega 1280 IO header section is a bunch of breakout pins for debug functions. There are eight sets of ...
Ensure that firmware has proper thermistor configuration. For details see this video tutorial.
Verify that your thermistor works properly. Measure voltage on it. It should be around 5V on this particular board.
There is possibility that the board is defective. Replace it.
Temperature sensor possibilities for Marlin firmware:
// -2 is ...
It's not quite as simple as you would suggest.
You can't just recompile Marlin for another device. You'd need to rewrite large parts of it. It may be compatible with the Arduino IDE, but that doesn't mean you can just run firmware intended for the AtMega2560 on it. All the timings (e.g. those of the pulses sent to the stepper motors) would be off, if you ...
so points to that case:
how are you going to sync master/slave?
adding more steppers to master (even only for pushing control to slave) will limit speed in the whole system (this is mainly one of the reasons why we shall go to 32-bit platforms to print faster).
As marlin will give you a good grasp to convert g-code into steppers movement, then if you are ...
I actually thought the problem is in the electronic circuit but the problem is the baud rate. I initially took the baud rate as 115200 but later. after someone's suggestion, I changed it to 250000 and now it's fine.
So basically you just replaced everything except for the LCD (the LCD testing is described a little further). If the LCD is not working then, this could imply that either your LCD is broken, or one of the new parts is not functioning as expected, or you have not connected things correctly.
Are you sure the firmware flash went okay? You could test the ...
I found many ways to re-task extruder steppers to
behave like cartesian-like controls:
If your application does not require contemporary movement of
all axes, you can enable multiple extruders setting the EXTRUDERS
define in Marlin's Configuration.h.
Then you can select which extruders will be set as E
variable in G1 commands, by sending T0, T1 and so on.
The easiest way to know how powerful the PSU should be is to download from https://github.com/rcarlyle/StepperSim the Excel workbook which simulates the power absorbed by the stepper motor. Input the motor specifications, check in the graph the max speed at which you plan to run it, check the absorbed power, add 20% for the various losses. Once you know the ...
If the trouble was just a short between 5 V and ground, the board probably would restart whenever you pushed the button, with all kind of power sources.
The fact that the Arduino restarts only when powered from RAMPS makes me wonder another cause for this problem.
It's well known that most of Arduino clones don't have a good voltage regulator onboard. This ...
The resistance of the heated bed being too high can not have caused the MOSFET to burn out. Only a too low resistance could cause that.
Keep in mind that measuring relatively low resistances (such as the one of your heated bed) is difficult, and if you just used a regular multimeter it might indicate a wrong value (e.g. due to the resistance of the test ...
Not answering the question directly which pins you can use I would like to propose an alternative solution for your problem, to explain why you should not use RX/TX pins.
An alternative solution includes the use of a small single board computer like the Raspberry Pi (RPi) which is connected over USB with the printer board. E.g. the latest range of RPi (...
to help you to solve this problem - please see my checklist
are the stepper drivers connected correctly (pin1 to pin1)?
stepper wiring is accurate (1a-1a..2b-2b)?
is there enough voltage provided to the steppers (regulate)?
if you are trying to move E0 or E1 then you need to disable cold extrusion as that stops rotation (waiting for 170C deg on the nozzle)
Thermal expansion is opening a connection somewhere. It might not be one of your solderings, but if you shorted the board bad enough to fry pins, it could have cooked something somewhere else, and putting current through it is heating up the spot enough to break the connection. Either somewhere else in/on the board, or inside of the IC chip itself.