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There are a few questions on this topic, so a more generic solution would be informative and will prevent multiple questions of others when their sensor has a slightly different location. This answer intends to cover any position with respect to the nozzle. It also does not matter what kind of sensor it is, it can be 3DTouch, BLTouch, inductive, capacitive, ...
11
G28 instructs the printer to home itself to the X an Y endstops and the Z sensor determines the homing of the Z axis; i.e. when the sensor triggers, this is not necessarily (and most commonly) not the position where the nozzle is at Z=0.
G29 determines the shape of the bed by probing the bed. This will set the shape of the bed with respect to the sensor ...
8
TL;DR
Yes, glass warps when hot. Use a physical touch sensor and calibrate it out, or swap glass if it's "bad".
The further you go into mechanical studies like 3d printing, mills, and lathes, you will find out that nothing is perfectly flat. Everything has a tolerance to it, whether the manufacturer provided it or not. Better manufacturers provide ...
8
You need to change the constant value(s) in your Configuration.h file of your Marlin version from:
// Set the number of grid points per dimension.
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X
to:
// Set the number of grid points per dimension.
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 5
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X
This ...
7
Using automatic bed leveling assists you in getting the print to stick better to the build platform as a result of the print head following the non-uniform geometry or tilt of the build plate.
In, e.g. Marlin Firmware, the bed level correction is fading out over a predefined distance, this is determined by the constant #define ENABLE_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT in ...
7
None of the answers address your question to solve it! The only sensible contribution comes from a comment of @TomvanderZanden.
For the sensor to stay within the limits of the bed (considering the offset of the sensor and the size of the hotend carriage) you need to define where the sensor (plus carriage) may go to (to keep the sensor also on the bed, you ...
7
TL;DR
Short answer: "There is no difference!".
Long answer
G-code is parsed line by line. The parser in the firmware reads the command and the options (also called parameters) following it, comments are discarded.
Therefore, option S should be followed by a Boolean value 0 for False or 1 for True. Without a value it is undefined and should be ...
6
An extra gap of 0.2 mm on top of your existing gap seems rather illogical as the filament is not squished at the build plate anymore. Furthermore 0.2 mm plus something you already have will soon result in a gap over 75% of your nozzle diameter (including your first layer; note that 75% is considered to be the max for good adhesion). The filament will then ...
6
Just move the Z-endstop up a little higher, also make sure the bed leveling screws are not completely screwed in.
So:
Move the head of the printer up.
Move up the Z-endstop so that the nozzle is a little higher than the build platform.
Home the printer.
Disable the stepper motors and move the head over the bed to a certain position (e.g. a corner without ...
6
Automatic bed levelling is not magic; it still requires you to level the bed properly (as level as possible). The upside of automatic bed levelling is that it compensates for small deviations like a slightly slanted surface or a (somewhat large) dent in the surface (as long it is probed and can be digitized by the firmware). It will keep the nozzle at a ...
6
No, it is not necessary to call G29 before every print to "auto level the bed" 1) provided that:
the bed surface has not changed (e.g. large load or force has been exerted on the build platform, leveling screws are accidentally adjusted, a substantial different bed temperature is used causing different thermal stresses, etc.),
the carriage of the ...
6
The issues/questions raised about the automatic bed leveling using e.g. a BLTouch probe at this stack require a more in depth description of the automatic leveling functionality in general, this answers aims on describing how this works.
Definition of "bed leveling"
Let us begin with saying that such sensors systems alone will never level your bed,...
5
A Marlin developer confirmed that bed-leveling and probing are now performed entirely in the machine coordinate space.
To clarify further, if one has a non-zero home offset enabled, the following commands refer to different physical locations despite the supplied parameters being the same:
M206 X10 Y10 ; Set a home offset in X and Y
G30 X100 Y100 ; ...
5
Last first: use of a raft has nothing to do with bed levelling. It depends only on the features/shape/etc of the object being printed.
Now, as to what the auto-levelling does: the answer is, sadly "it depends." A simple algorithm will just find the Z-height of the four corners and apply a bilinear correction to Z as a function of {x,y} coordinates. A ...
5
Prusa uses 9 marker points in the bed that are sensed with an induction sensor to determine the X, Y and Z position. Any deviation for skewness or bed level is compensated through the software. Please do note that the bed is pretty level to begin with (by design).
This is precisely described here, please check the video.
Note that Marlin Firmware (which is ...
5
Your problem is that the hotend carriage does not stop when the sensor triggers. I assume you mean "on homing", not "while printing" (UPDATE: after watching the video it is confirmed that it is "on homing"). First, the working and this difference is explained. Thereafter your configuration file is assessed and typical errors or inconsistencies are reported. ...
5
It is preferred to get the distance correct by hardware changes (leveling screws). But it is possible to do it with software. You can not only change the Z offset in the slicer or in the configuration of Marlin, but also with G-code commands.
The "paper drag" method is perfect for determining the correct Z level. Once you leveled with the paper, you do not ...
5
As explained in this answer it is you that needs to calculate where the head (read sensor) is supposed to go depending on the amount of space you have left on the carriage shafts.
As can be seen from your configuration, your sensor is located on the left front (when facing the machine) at 41 mm left from the nozzle you are requesting the sensor to travel to ...
5
The bar where the level is attached is the support cross-bar for the X-axis travel.
It's important this bar be level, but it's even more important the bar be true to the rest of the machine. We call this "leveling" the printer, but really the more accurate term is "tramming". If the bar is level, but the machine sits on an unlevel surface, things are out ...
5
For leveling your bed you do not require the use of a bubble level! This is not necessary, if you do, you need to place the printer on a bubble level underground. It is far easier to level the bed relative to the printer frame rather than to the outside world. Basically the bed and the X-axis (the axis that moves your nozzle) need to be parallel and each ...
5
Too bad you broke the acrylic plate (nice temporary fix though), but you can easily print a replacement part once your machine is up and running.
Probe positioning is defined in the Marlin configuration as:
* +-- BACK ---+
* | |
* L | (+) P | R -- probe (20,20)
* E | | I
* F | (-) N (+) | G -- nozzle (10,10)
...
5
This is a consequence of enabling Z_SAFE_HOMING:
Z Safe Homing prevents Z from homing when the probe (or nozzle) is outside bed area by moving to a defined XY point (by default, the middle of the bed) before Z Homing when homing all axes with G28. As a side-effect, X and Y homing are required before Z homing. If stepper drivers time out, X and Y homing will ...
4
Basically there are two problems to address: first - bed inclination and second - uneven bed surface.
There are different algorithms dealing with one or both problems.
Most specialists insist that bed should be flat and most people use glass as the top to achieve this. And this eliminates second problem and require to solve only the first one.
To find bed ...
4
A probe or even manual (e.g. through LCD panel) leveling results in either a reference plane or mesh. This depends on the firmware and the options set in the firmware. Basically, this process maps the geometry of your build plate. Once it knows this geometry, printing an object results in the head following the height contours of the mapped build plate. ...
4
This was killing me on mine. My problem wasn't the z-axis, it was the x-axis arm. On the right side, opposite the extruder gear, it had a lot of give (wobble). I could level my bed four times before starting a print and would still have problems, especially with the nozzle making deep grooves in the magnetic bed. The way it messed up was inconsistent as well,...
4
The Creality CR-10 Mini is a portal printer using a single Z lead screw at one side of the portal to move the whole X axis gantry. This implies that the X gantry needs to be very stiff when raised and lowered from one side and also have a minimum of play on the rollers (especially on the lead screw driven side).
I have seen many complaints from experience ...
4
How much glue do you put on it? I use PVA based spray, barely visible, very evenly spread and no problem whatsoever of sticking paper to the glue layer.
Just level the bed as you normally would and apply a sparsely coat of glue, preferably from a spray can.
Having printed literally kilometers of PETG on various build platforms (various glass sheets with or ...
4
Your video shows that your bed seems warped somewhat.
Ammount of error
As I assume you did level the bed with a sheet of paper to be 0.1 mm thick, we can estimate the change of thickness. The thickest point seems to be 0.2 mm, the thinnest 0.05. that's in average an error of 0.075 mm for the first layer. If you can live with that, no need to touch it.
Fixing ...
4
First, welcome to the 3D Printing Stack Exchange!
On bed leveling
Bed leveling, or more accurately bed tramming, adjusts the bed so that it is even in relation to the print head. Typically it is done by sliding a paper between the nozzle and the bed when Z = 0, or the print head is at its lowest. The amount of friction should be similar to the amount of ...
4
This seems to be a common problem with ender-3 and cr-10 printers from Creality. Mine is the same way but not enough to keep prints from adhering.
Typically the aluminum bed is not perfectly flat. If it’s not the glass may be able to flex enough that it can make a difference. There are a few ways to try to fix it.
Shim the low spots in the aluminum bed ...
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