New answers tagged bed-leveling
1
Generally, there is no best way, there are only the ways that work for you.
I use a feeler gauge, mounted on a detachable holder. I home to 0, lift the Z by 1 mm, and then level the bed to the same number on the screws and corners. Then I home back to Z=0 and perform an extrusion test, and if that is not satisfactory, use a different number for the leveling. ...
2
So the new silicone buffers raised the bed by 5 mm? When this happens, you should raise the endstop also with 5 mm. Else the printer will go down to the Z endstop that is effectively 5 mm below the level of the bed. I guess the buffers cannot be compressed by 5 mm, so you need to move the endstop up to the level your buffer compression is in reach of.
No ...
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Setting any offset will move the whole print ("effectively shifts the coordinate space") - so you can set up for printing above or below bed, or shifting several cm to the right, for example - and then your print may not actually fit the printing space. For example: my frame is blocking X moves at the top, I can set the 20 mm X offset to avoid ...
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From a comment can be read that the OP found the solution:
it's fixed : it's because I didn't level the bed once after flashing the firmware, once it has been done the error is no more
2
In addition to @fred_dot_u remarks:
Decrease initial layer speed
Try to print the initial layer at lower (very low speed). Start from 20 mm/s, move down even to 5-10 mm/s (e.g. just decrease speed% from the menu). I had many such issues when printing in too high speed (even directly on kapton tape): filament could not stick to the bed so quickly and rolled ...
1
I had exact same issues with my Ender 3 v2. Using the stock default glass the middle would be too far out and I was never able to level it just right - no matter what I did - I could have stayed on it for hours.
In matter of fact, it wasn't just the middle, it was the middle between each of the corner points as well, meaning, imagine a plus sign going across ...
1
I had the same problem, solved it by inserting
// Move X and Y to 0 after homing
process_subcommands_now_P("G1 X0 Y0 F5000");
at the end of G28.cpp, just before ui.refresh();
This moves the print head to X0, Y0 and leaves Z untouched after the homing procedure. This way any oozing that might happen while the extruder heats up will be outside of ...
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To address the firmware problems, Download a fresh edition of Marlin 2.0.x and configure the Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h yourself. Others' configurations are expecting fully stock parts, and will not be compatible with your system.
Your main problem seems to be in your Probe Z-Offset. To get good level, you need to calculate how far above the bed ...
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You do a critical error in your order of operations: you home. Then you home again.
However, the firmware does not check if the switch is already depressed, it waits for a signal to cut out. But the signal is already not there. And as you will notice, it moves into X+ and Y+ before rehoming into 0, but does not do so in Z.
To prevent that behavior, you need ...
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