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Try to lift the nozzle more than you'd do even for PLA. PETG sticks really well to the heated bed. If your bed is already well leveled you can adjust the nozzle position in Z by using Z offsets directly in your slicing software (AFAIK, Cura needs an extra plugin for it, Prusa Slicer has it built-in). If you have done everything correctly, the PETG model ...


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In CuraEngine's FffGcodeWriter::finalize method, G-code to zero the bed and enclosure temperature is only written if the machine profile defines a heated bed/enclosure, so you could in theory avoid the cooldown by telling Cura your machine doesn't and putting the heatup commands in your custom start gcode instead of letting Cura emit them itself. However it ...


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Playing around with the nozzle height will help: back it off until just before you have first layer adhesion issues. Don't jam the filament into the bed as you might for ABS. This helps with small prints. However, my experience has been that if you have a large enough continuous contact area (i.e. more than a few square inches) with the print bed, there ...


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Correctly level your bed. Seriously, that's the answer. PETG does stick well, but it only gets difficult to remove if you're smashing the first layer against the bed with a nozzle that's way too close. With the bed leveled properly - using feeler gauges or test prints and a sub-0.1-mm-precision caliper - I have no trouble taking PETG prints off a buildtak-...


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Following Nathan's answer, I've solved my problem with Nathan's suggestions and the method in this video. What I did? Flashed Creality's original BLTouch firmware to printer Heated up bed to 60 °C Leveled bed the old fashion way first, but with slight resistance (you don't have to level perfectly) Followed the youtube method to find proper Z offset Opened ...


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I would suggest you read this, even tho it's a different mainboard it may help. Next to that you should level the bed the old fashion way first with a paper on the 4 outer corners, it is essential that you do this because ABL can only compensate so much when printing. After that set the Z-offset using a paper and run some bed adhesion test prints and use ...


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