Have you tried a concrete tile for garden with foam below it?
The same is on
Frequencies at 200+ Hz should not get to the neighbours, the walls and floor will absorb them. Lower frequencies are transmitted much more (see the video).
To answer your question how (by assuming you have a 4 pins PINDA v2 sensor) to connect the sensor to your board, you have 2 options:
Do not connect the white wire and treat the sensor as you would use a normal endstop switch (blue is ground, brown is +5 V, black is signal),
Connect the 4 wires (use a splitter cable to split out into a 3 and 1 pin ...
So I found my mistake: It was the E-Steps I did wrong it over extruded. The best E-Steps per mm are 92 for me. The mistake took place because I took my E-step number from a Video Tutorial about my dual extruder. I found the optimal number by testing out; the formula I got for the E-Steps was in the Video and I think I used it wrong, I'll watch ...
I'm an Ender 3 Pro user and I've been through almost every problem this machine has.
If you are on original hotend and Bowden style extruder, then first try the hot end PTFE fix
What the picture may show is a temperature too low, especially on these bad layers. Raise the temperature like you have tried (200 °C is good).
To avoid prints being knocked off ...
If you followed the video verbatim then the pins file will be wrong, because he's changing the pins based on an MKS Gen 1.4 and not the SKR 1.3. All pins on the SKR will look similar to P2_04, which is the pin for the 2nd hotend terminal.
There is a temporary solution which I have found here, on the reprap forums, Re: Upload to the board failed after LCD enabled:
An official fix has been posted. Grab the new ultralcd.cpp from [github.com]
Apparently the sources contained a bug which was fixed later, a new version download fixed the problem.
Use a servo. This way you can use the digital pins to control it; or in your specific case PWM_PC9
Connect it to the expansion port and configure one of the digital pins in the marlin configuration file. A servo will go to the minimum position when the pin goes low, and the max position when the pin goes high. I take it you don't need any stops in between ...
The previous answer is good, but here's one specific for Bigtreetech.
Install platform.io. I use the command-line interface (CLI)
Modify your marlin files. You can clone existiing firmware for your board from the BigtreeTech Github for your board.
Remove microUSB card from your Bigtree tech board
Plug microUSB card into microUSB reader, and the microusb ...
The Creality V1.1.5 board was fried. I replaced it with a BIGTREETECH SKR MINI E3 V2.0 32BIT CONTROLLER. After struggling to find a corresponding firmware for the Ender 5 pro, the axis motors worked correctly.
I use the older 2018 model of the Ender3, and so far I have had only to replace some consumables and my extruder for an aluminium one, some nozzles, and one time a fresh Bowden, and I am golden.
To me, I see 2 problems:
You might print too cold. I print PLA at 200 °C, some brands I do print a little hotter.
You measured your extrusion rate. That is wrong. ...
The basic RRF board has a single Z driver which connects to two Z stepper sockets.
In order to individually drive two steppers, you need an optional stepper driver like in a dedicated Z2 stepper driver or a spare E1 driver to function as the second Z driver. The basic RRF board only has four drivers, so this board alone will not bring the functionality of ...
Seeing the infill from the outside is usually caused by having a thin wall or an incorrect wall thickness compared to your nozzle. Wall thickness should be a multiple of your nozzle diameter; so a .4 mm nozzle should have 0.4, 0.8, 1.2 mm thicknesses.
The following list of solutions is from All3DP's article "Troubleshooting Common 3D Printing Problems&...
So it looks like I finally resolved that issue. I compiled a complete new firmware based on the Marlin bugfix branch. Before I was working on the sources provided in the Bigtreetech GitHub. I started from scratch and put all the settings I needed into the Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h. Now all rings are gone. Either there was really a bug or ...
I think I fixed everything. What I did is I used this guide <youtu.be/y_1Kg45APko> which was a guide by makes'n'breaks on setting the probe z-offset using pronterface and then reverted to the original firmware that was on this page<github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/…> Which was the marlin firmware for bltouch for z homing ...
A) it tries to exceed the X limits and makes the loud clicking sound while performing the bed leveling. it even tries to move past the X end stop switch.
This tells me that the firmware you use is faulty - it has a faulty bed-size or home.
B)when printing, it moves to the far right rear corner and extrudes off of the bed.
This can be intended in the G-...
For some reason the Z axis finishes homing with the extruder 6 mm above the bed.
If homing Z axes seems proper - i.e. nozzle is "touching" the bed during proces, and not going below the bed level) - then homing may be correct. Otherwise do troubleshooting, as has been suggested in comments. Check also the offset and backoff settings. All these ...
Firmware can be distributed in 2 ways:
As a compiled file (for example as .hex).
As an uncompiled repository (as in a preconfigured marlin distribution) that needs to be compiled at the users' side.
Compiled files can't be altered easily. The only way to change settings after installation is to send the correct commands via a console ...
Well I found that I can use a DuPont cable to connect the diag1 pin to the right endstop
There is also a beta functionality in the Marlin firmware I haven't tried: Just uncommenting SPI_ENDSTOPS definition
* SPI_ENDSTOPS *** Beta feature! *** TMC2130 Only ***
* Poll the driver through SPI to determine load when homing.
* Removes the need for a ...
If you want to pause at the Octoprint command streaming level rather than at the printer level, have your slicer emit the Octoprint @pause command rather than real gcode for pause. This will cause it to go into the paused state and not send any further commands until you hit resume.
Just solved my own problem. Instead of looking in Marlin for the command, I found out the reason it was lifting up quickly was because of a custom command embedded in the G-code by the slicer. I got rid of the command and the problem was solved.
You do not need to connect the red (+) wire of the endstops. The controller board uses a technique to ensure the signal is 3.3 V or ground, see the top left schematics of this link (will insert an image later!). Specifics about this technology is found here and is explained as using a pull up resistor.
What happens is that the signal is always reported ...
Marlin 2.0 is still very much in development.
If you face issues like this and you're certain you haven't introduced any typos,
try downloading the most current version of Marlin again (Github -> Download -> Download zip).
Copy in your configuration files and try to compile.
If the issue persists, you may try to use a version from a few days / weeks ago.
Marlin 2.0.0 is in an Alpha state. 'Alpha' is a state before Beta, meaning, it's not hot off the presses, it isn't even off the presses. You need to go back to the most recent "stable" version of Marlin, which is 1.1.9 (found on the same page as the link above). This should most likely solve the errors and problems you're seeing.