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14 votes
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Differences between moving build plate vs. extruder

Without going into too much detail, since this is a very exhaustive topic, I'll write some pro's of each down from the top of my head: Cartesian XZ hotend, Y bed (eg. Prusa Mendel): easy to build (...
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  • 2,844
14 votes

Can't get print to stick, no matter what I try

Your nozzle is clearly too far from the bed. The plastic should be squashed down slightly. Some firmwares have an option where you can adjust the height of the nozzle "live" during the first layer, in ...
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13 votes
Accepted

How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)

When centered in the slicer correctly, without offsets defined in the slicer, the printer is most probably incorrectly configured! Luckily you can do something about that! Basically, you will have to ...
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  • 30.4k
10 votes
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Printed part auto-eject (automatic part removal)

While the "best" method is probably unanswerable since it would be based on very specific requirements and subject to change as soon as a better method were devised, here are some feasible methods to ...
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10 votes
Accepted

SLA prints not sticking to build plate

Prints could end up on tray for couple of reasons. Vacuum force on early layers - Usually you should lose pieces on the center of platform Put holes or channels on platform Very slow speed on early ...
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  • 461
9 votes
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Can't get print to stick, no matter what I try

Eureka! All of the other answers and suggestions on this post were all very helpful, and would likely be the right answers 90+% of the time, but they didn't give me any relief. I spent a bunch of time ...
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7 votes

Using dollar-store picture glass for print bed on top of original heated aluminum bed?

Picture frame glass (generally float glass) will work well enough, but count on it eventually cracking/getting chipped. It's always very flat (due to the way the production process works). Taking it ...
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7 votes
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How to tell if PLA temp is too hot/cold

Too Hot If you're printing too hot (with any filament, not just PLA) you're going to see stringing and blobs/oozing because the material is getting runny and exiting the nozzle in an uncontrolled ...
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  • 365
7 votes

What is this white layer on my 3D printer?

My guess is it's damaged print surface from the hot extruder mashing against the print surface. Your description seems to indicate that it isn't a layer.
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  • 2,002
6 votes
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Is using a hair dryer on my M3D build plate safe?

Typically, people cool down their build plates to get parts to release, rather than heat them up. That said, I doubt a hair drier will get hot enough to do any damage to the build plate. You could try ...
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6 votes
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Do I need a heated bed for printing PLA in an enclosed printer?

The answer is "No" you don't need a heated bed for PLA but it does make the base layer a little easier to lay down and also helps with print removal post print. PLA is a very easy filament to work ...
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6 votes

Can't get print to stick, no matter what I try

Your photo has shadows which seem to suggest that your tape layer has some wrinkles. That won't help. Try removing that tape and laying down the fabulous blue painter's tape. If you read any ...
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6 votes
Accepted

Tevo Michelangelo nozzle below build plate?

Just move the Z-endstop up a little higher, also make sure the bed leveling screws are not completely screwed in. So: Move the head of the printer up. Move up the Z-endstop so that the nozzle is a ...
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  • 30.4k
5 votes

Does the printing substrate have to be glass? If so, what size?

Obviously being in a rush can limit your options, but here are a few thoughts: Quick solutions: Blue painters tape (as Carl mentioned) will work directly on your heated bed...assuming it's a flat ...
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5 votes

How to line up (x,y) print area between hardware and software?

The problem you are experiencing is because the position where the y endstop is triggered does not correspond to y = 0, but perhaps corresponds to ...
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5 votes
Accepted

How often should I replace the glue layers on the bed?

Depends on the glue and on your tolerance for messy undersides on your prints. It's fairly common for some of the glue to come off with the print. Or you may have marks from scrapers or rafts. Do you ...
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  • 6,446
5 votes

How to remove a PLA print stuck to a BuildTak sheet

I would do as fred_dot_u initially suggested, by increasing the bed temp (or using a hair dryer) to heat the BuildTak. Then, use a small fan to quickly cool the platform (or at least quicker than room ...
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  • 6,214
5 votes

Can't get print to stick, no matter what I try

I've been struggling to work out what is wrong with the process where you claim to be leveling the bed OK (and the print is starting in mid air). Now I remember I had exactly the same problem with my ...
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5 votes

Multiple unattended prints using extruder to sweep build plate?

You could cool down the heated bed (with e.g. [M109][1] R28) and cool down the hotend (with e.g. [M190][1] R40). This will ...
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  • 30.4k
5 votes
Accepted

How to calculate linear Y rod length for a larger replacement bed?

Basically, your setup is the following: The overhang of the bed, assuming the bearings are in the center, equals (300-105)/2 = 97.5 mm on each side. So the ...
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  • 30.4k
5 votes
Accepted

How can you prevent the build plate from slipping?

I use kapton tape to fixate the glass plates to the heated beds on two of my printers, one a Prusa i3 clone, the other a CoreXY. The tape is able to withstand higher temperatures, and is very thin, so ...
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  • 30.4k
4 votes

How to reuse modelling bases for the Stratasys uPrint SE Plus?

What I tried and worked is to apply water based normal Glue-stick on the tray and with few drops of water distribute it evenly across the tray surface, let it dry and then you are good to go!
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4 votes

SLA prints not sticking to build plate

I also had issues with the first layer sticking to the build plate and I did not want to sand the plate. As most people will mention you need to make sure that your plate is perfectly level and the z ...
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4 votes
Accepted

Should I vary the first layer height

Default settings for first layer height in Slic3r Prusa Edition print profiles regardless layer height is 0.2 mm. If you need to improve bed adhesion then try tips from this video 3D Prints not ...
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  • 1,911
4 votes
Accepted

Ultimaker Cura problems with build platform size and overhang support

Ultimaker Cura print bed size sizes (shrinks) when you enable skirt, brim or raft build adhesion options. Try to print without build plate adhesion option if you want to push printing to the limits of ...
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  • 30.4k
4 votes

Creality Ender 3 - printing in front of the build plate

When a print is not printing on the build platform, you either: Have the incorrect settings in the slicer (e.g. Ultimaker Cura, a common mistake is that the "origin at center" option is active), or ...
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  • 30.4k
4 votes

What do you use to keep your blue tape from lifting?

Your printer has a build-tac clone surface. Blue tape does not stick well to that: you would get better results printing directly to the Build-Tac clone. Painter's tape I use only on a flat surface: ...
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  • 19.2k
4 votes

What do you use to keep your blue tape from lifting?

The tape probably would stick better to the Aluminum bed than the BuildTak clone sheet you have as it would have had more surface area to bond to. What I found that works best is to print on the ...
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  • 30.4k
4 votes

What should I use to clean buildtak(knock off)?

Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is the general recommendation I've heard and it works well for me.
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4 votes

Options for getting a really flat build surface

It all depends on what you mean by "flat". Is the problem that the build plate isn't flat (perfectly planar), or is the problem that the distance to the build plate varies based on X and Y ...
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  • 4,398

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