5

I use kapton tape to fixate the glass plates to the heated beds on two of my printers, one a Prusa i3 clone, the other a CoreXY. The tape is able to withstand higher temperatures, and is very thin, so it doesn't have the drawbacks of limiting the print area or high chance the nozzle hitting the clips.


3

I'm not sure what "the build plate keeps slipping while printing. I tried to use binder clips to keep the plate in place" means, but if you have a build surface and a bottom heated bed, you can look for "silicone thermal pad 0.5mm". You can put it between build surface and lower bed, so that it will increase friction and there won't be ...


3

Blue masking tape is a common bed surface, especially for unheated beds. It is effectively an adhesive applied to a paper, although I suspect the paper is treated in some manner to serve as a barrier to paint, as the blue tape is sold as paint masking tape. A sheet of ordinary paper isn't likely to catch fire, as the bed temperature will not reach ...


2

Removable steel spring sheet with PEI textured coatings I have been using textured PEI string sheet for most of my prints, just love it. Prints attach so good but not hard to remove(with proper nozzole Z-offset). If the prints are small and seems hard to remove,heating up the bed helps a lot. Almost never used the smooth side, even with proper z-offset, it ...


2

Build Plate If your clips aren't holding down your build plate, make sure your nozzle isn't crashing into the plate and moving it. A build surface between the clip and surface or adhesive might help keep the clip from slipping on the top surface. A rubbery gasket material that can withstand you heated bed temperatures, such as the silicon FarO mentions, ...


1

I don't know about PVP but PVA sticks more at room temperature and gets weaker at higher temperatures, see "Influence of temperature on the strength of bonded joints" I remember using hairspray with PVA for PETG and it was really difficult to detach large parts.


1

One of the resources I've found is a forum with a discussion of the impact of scratches. The general consensus is that scratches are not a problem, as long as there are no burrs above the surface of the plate that would damage the bottom of the vat. One posting party has used 36 grit on a palm sander followed by scotchbrite pad to resurface his plate, but ...


1

So your (clone) BuildTak bed surface is not sticking to the bed anymore, time to remove the surface and clean the heatbed and apply a new one. These build surfaces (usually) have a sticky 3M sticker to stick it to the bed (or the surface bottom is covered with a sticky surface). When this sticking layer fails of subsequent heating cycles you need to replace ...


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