In effect, the ground (from mains) does not need to be connected to the relay, the relay interrupts the "hot" or "neutral" (preferably the "hot", but that is not possible for all plugs, e.g. some European plugs can be inserted 180° turned into the sockets). You connect one of the interrupted wires to the COM, the other interrupted wire (that goes to the ...
You need to take a step back and think about what you are doing. From what I read there you are connecting the neutral to the low voltage. You should definitely not mix connections between your high and low voltage side. I think you are lucky to not have broken more things than the logic board.
I quickly drafted this to show the idea.
The relay provides ...
Cardboard is fundamentally paper. Paper ignites - just as Ray Bradbury claims - at around 233 °C or 451 °F.
A thin heater wire usually glows red hot under operation. Not dark red, not blood cherry, not dark cherry, it's usually medium cherry to dark orange in operation, as one can easily tell by looking into a trusty toaster oven, which also shows us how ...
Here is what I found to be the easiest solution. Please use this image for reference. I recommend doing these instructions once from source, since a lot of things can go wrong, then once everything works, go back and integrate them into your existing Marlin codebase.
Get some 5V relays to run the infrared lamps. These relays take in a 5V digital signal ...
An alternative to finding steppers that can withstand the heat, you can consider not getting the heat near the steppers:
Moving the steppers outside the heated build volume
With 2 extra pulleys per stepper you can get the steppers outside the build volume.
Shield the motors from the heat by placing them in a cooler tunnel or behind a face plate/cover
It does work, but you need to reset EEPROM memory once updating the firmware, if you had it enabled, so the values are transferred into the EEPROM and subsequently used.
To reset EEPROM, send the following command in your 3d printer terminal.
Then, save the firmware default settings
Mains electric specialist here. When working in mains power, mechanical execution of work is everything.
The first rule is do not casually mess around with mains power -- it will kill you! If you've done a lot of low-voltage tinkering with jury-rigged wires splayed all over the place -- do not do that with mains wiring. Ever. Break that habit with mains!
Let's look at the notes on the relay first, as these tell us what to connect the terminals to.
NO/NC - Normally Open/Normally Closed lead. Which you use determines the switching behavior: open line on signal (NC) or closed line on signal (NO). Connect this to the powered component.
For heater components it is best to use NO, as a failure of a ...
I second the previous answer if running second Z motor in parallel, just split wires or buy adapter consisting of two females to one male, Z motor on most printers don't draw huge current (or at least in smaller less frequent intervals to give things time to cool).
Erm I extruder with two temperature zones, hmmm buy a larger heating element, like a E3D ...
Have you considered using or adapting Prusa’s P.I.N.D.A. V2 or SuperPINDA? Seems that within some bounds they’ve solved the temperature compensation issue.
The older P.I.N.D.A. V1 sensor seems to be temperature-sensitive. See more information in P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA Sensor testing article of Pruse Knowledge Base.
One Halon alternative is the rather simple and cheap gas CO2. It is neither toxic nor hard to get: "60 liter" water-carbonation bottles are readily available over the counter to create soda water and contain some 200-300 liters CO2
Alternatives are Argon and Nitrogen, but those don't come in these small canisters and dissipate ...
"Since it has a heating chamber I can't use normal stepper motor" Sure you can, the interior doesn't get all that warm unless you really seal it up tight, and that's not really needed. I have an enclosure around my 200x200x200 mm MIGBOT (early Prusa clone with direct drive extruder), printing PLA with 60 °C bed, the interior only gets a few ...
It is possible to buy cheap high temperature steppers. E.g., you can buy LDO 180 °C winding steppers.
They can be used up to 135 °C without additional cooling and with reduced lifetime probably even higher.