9

My printer (IdeaWerk 150) is very basic and doesn't have any options for this from the screen. I wrote a really simple GCODE file that brings the nozzle up to temperature, then runs the extruder for a few seconds, then waits, then extrudes for a bit again. I think it does this 3 or 4 times then stops. I can put the file (when converted to .x3g!) onto an SD ...


6

A spool does not need to be inside a printer. Or on. Or even next to. My Ender 3 pulls his filament in from the rack above it, my TronXY X1 pulls it from about 80 cm to the left of it, where it hangs from a shelf. When making a solution that pulls in filament from afar, it is necessary to make sure the path is unobstructed and works for the whole movement ...


6

I figured out the issue. I think I was shoving it in the wrong hole. I took apart my extruder component. There's a good video on it here. But basically, you just have to loosen the two bottom screws on the side fan like this: I checked everything out first. I cleaned the extruder head with the included pin. I also shoved the filament through the heated ...


6

Is ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE enabled in your printers configuration_adv.h file? There is a PAUSE_PARK_NO_STEPPER_TIMEOUT option included in there, which prevents the steppers from timing out during a pause, and may be more robust than a G-Code command if you plan to manually pause and resume the print instead of setting it up in the slicer. Alternatively, in ...


4

RepRap based printers use LCD modules with control button and SD card. You can trigger operations like nozzle heating (to change filament) extrude filament home axis to caliber bed level ... Most used LCD modules are: RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller RepRapDiscount Smart Controller, see video RepRap firmwares (Marlin, Repetier) are ...


4

It definitely looks like the temperature is too high but it can also mean that the speed is too low and/or the cooling fan is not driven correctly and/or over extrusion could play a role here this is the scenario with all these issues together too high temperature melts too much filament which is put by too slow movements ;) check the printing when ...


4

Looking at the second photograph and the way that the filament switches abruptly from smooth to irregular deposition, I would say that you have a partially clogged nozzle. Pre-heat the nozzle and extrude some filament. It should drop straight down from the nozzle. If the filament curls as it comes out of the nozzle, the nozzle is partially clogged. You may ...


3

There's a bit of a compromise here: Filament cohesion in the nozzle isn't strong enough to remove all residue at higher temperature Extruder motors can't get sufficient grip / don't have sufficient torque for filament extraction at lower temperatures That means you'll always have to purge some of the old filament when changing to a new filament. To easily ...


3

I have two different printers that can print un-tethered. The first is a Prusa inspired machine with an LCD and the second is a printrbot without an LCD. The reprap machine uses a ramps 1.4 board programmed with Marlin that gives me the ability to control loading and unloading of the filament with simple menus. Not all printers that have the ability to ...


3

There are options for tablets. They are running software (for example) on some device that has internal storage, wifi, USB connection etc. You can buy a new tablet, or reuse your old one just to be a controller. Another great example is this app. Apps have menus that can arrange everything for you, now it depends on what app do you use and what filament ...


3

I know that my RoBo 3D has the ability to run untethered once the gcode file is saved to the SD card attached to the ramps board. It does have to be attached to the computer to start the print at first, but can then be unplugged from your computer. Since it is just a Marlin based Ramps printer this should work for similar 3D printers. The gcode files ...


3

I have not tried this, but you could use the M84 S0 command, this prevents the motors to go into an idle state. From the M84 G-code wiki (firmware specific!): On Marlin, Repetier and RepRapFirmware, M84 can also be used to configure or disable the idle timeout. For example, M84 S10 will idle the stepper motors after 10 seconds of inactivity. M84 S0 ...


2

You don't need a specific menu for this (although some printers are more able than others to do the following procedure), just play with the filament loading procedure. Although better print qualities are given by sticking (if possible) to the same color and filament, when you have to "flush out" any trace: get an ABS filament of the most neutral color ...


2

By a pretty large margin, the most popular "primary control via LCD" printers such as the FlashForge Creator line and Makerbot Replicator 1/2/2x run Sailfish firmware, which has options for all necessary control functions directly from the LCD. Preheat, load, unload, level bed, etc are all done via the LCD and seamlessly built-in scripts. There is no need to ...


2

You are out of luck: Print gcode is written in relative coordinates. If you move the printhead manually, the printer does not know this, and will just follow its relative path from the new position - which is what commonly is called layer-shifting. To try to mitigate this, there are ways, but they are a little tricky: If your printer has a change filament ...


2

First things first imho: M0 to stop the stamp. I dunno which firmware are you using but it should wait you to press a button on the LCD (Marlin does it). After that it run the gcode to unload and load the filament, resume temperature (M109 S215) and go ahead with the stamp. This is my final version: M83 G1 F3000 E-25 G1 F300 Z4 G1 F9000 ...


1

First thing I'd try is making sure the nozzle is hot enough and carefully try to feed the new filament where it will be pushed - sometimes there's melted filament that just isn't hot enough to flow out and the new filament is pushing on it, jamming and making your motor make that sound. Usually getting it hot to the point where the old filament is ...


1

Cold/Luke-Warm pulling can cause damage and wear to the hot end, and should only be used in cases where you suspect there's a jam in the nozzle. Pulling the filament out at a few degrees above its normal printing temperature and pulling quickly is what I use, and what I've seen other's also say, and the procedure most machines use.


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