15

This is typically caused by resistance in the tube or hotend but in your case it appears to be mostly caused by a very poorly designed extruder. The filament needs to be constrained closer to the drive gear. You may be able to drill out the PTC connector to allow the PTFE tube to reach closer to the gears or print a spacer to fit in between but you need to ...


10

Your extruder is encountering resistance and the filament path is too open. Your teeth seem to be biting in too hard. Loosen up your tensioners a bit. Teeth biting too hard deforms the filament. Does that rough looking stuff feed through the tube smoothly? Any rough bits can catch anything in the filament path? It is preferable for the motor to skip when ...


7

I do know about your budget, but I would suggest to buy a silent 3d printer like Prusa i3 mk3 which is about $1k. If you decide to tinker your printer instead than take a look on other possibilities: Trinamic drivers Most of the noise is created in motors. Definitely switch to Trinamic stepper motor drivers. I have upgraded from Prusa i3 mk2 to mk3 last ...


7

There are two parts to this problem. First, the extruder is meeting too much resistance in the print. There can be several causes, from the first layer being too low, a blocked nozzle, too low a print temperature, or printing too fast, so the viscosity of the filament just makes it too hard to pass through the nozzle. Usually, several of these will be in ...


6

Stringing? The stringing is explained by your relatively low retraction settings, 1.5 mm is not much for a Bowden setup. As do too high printing temperatures. Stopping mid printing? What you are experiencing is called clogging, the extruder cannot push the filament through the hotend and cause the grinding you report. Clogging mid printing is usually ...


6

To fight heat creep, you must understand why this is happening. Heat creeps up the hotend assembly as a result of incorrect settings or hardware setup causing the filament to prematurely soften and swell. It is important to reduce the heat travelling upwards in the first place rather than fighting the result. Too high print temperatures are an obvious ...


5

No, the bed does not look too close to the nozzle, it could well be that it is too far from the nozzle. However, the brim looks okay, but the method you follow is questionable. Using a feeler gauge of 0.2 mm is larger than the recommended paper method which is in the order of half that value (0.1 mm). You compensate this larger leveling gap with ...


5

I own the Ender 3, and it runs on 24V, as this photo of the power supply shows: From power supply to the board, it uses a 2-wire line connected with a XT60 plug/jack that is common on RC cars: The board itself is a proprietary design and labeled as "V1.1.2". The Voltage in is the lowest input on the left: The Cooling fan (blue-yellow wire), the hotend ...


5

GCode flavor: the firmware your machine uses. Google tells me CR-10 uses Marlin, so you should select that. Volumetric Marlin is not very common. Print Head Settings X/Y min/max define the bounding box of the area your print head takes up. Measure the distance from the centre of the nozzle to the left-most point of the print head and do the same for the ...


5

Personally for vibration reduction I use a large mouse pad I cut to size, but I'd imagine the carpet would perform just fine. I would also recommend enclosing your printer (this had the most profound effect for me) and upgrading your stepper drivers.


5

I use a paving block with rubber feet underneath it on the floor. It is very effective: The 3D printer is sitting right beside a door, and you can't hear it printing from the other side of the door. The low-frequency sounds are definitely absorbed by the paving block. What you can hear now are only the hissing sounds, when the extruder glides along the rods....


5

Removing the insulation will not damage the printer, although it may affect the quality of the prints. The insulation is, after all, there for a purpose. Allowing too much heat to escape radiatively from the heater block will reduce the maximum flow rate, since less energy will be available to heat the filament, and you may need to reduce your printing ...


4

Change DRV8825 / A49nn series on board stepper driver with Trinamics TM2100 ( in silentChop mode) will make your step motors almost silent. They are outstanding. But there are couple of disadvantages: There is chance of losing steps in slientChop (Would not effect print quality in my experience) TMC2100 is 5-6x times more expensive than DRV8825 Require ...


4

TL;DR You need to have the version 2.x controller board (and the associated CR-10S firmware) to use the filament sensor. If you do not then you will need to upgrade your controller board. Board Comparison For an excellent breakdown of the boards, read Creality CR-10 and CR-10S Models – What Printer do you have. There appear to be two basic model versions of ...


4

Not all filaments are created equal. Even with the very same manufacturer, the addition of colorful pigments can change the needed printing temperature a lot! I have had a white china PLA that was giving ok quality at 200°C, but the same brand's clear PLA only took 195°C to print. My white Kaisertech prints better at the 200°C while orange needs a little ...


4

The Creality CR-10 Mini is a portal printer using a single Z lead screw at one side of the portal to move the whole X axis gantry. This implies that the X gantry needs to be very stiff when raised and lowered from one side and also have a minimum of play on the rollers (especially on the lead screw driven side). I have seen many complaints from experience ...


4

This is partial answer and comment as it was too big to fit the comment section, it will be a proper answer once the question is updated by the OP. What you call a weird spiral pattern is the result of under-extrusion. When there is under-extrusion, the resulting print is sparsely filled. The reason for this under-extrusion is most probably partial clogging ...


4

Cr-10 S Pro has an eco mode make sure it's not turned on because this will turn your bed off after the first few layers have printed.


4

If you start a print there is an "Adjust" button, that will take you to a screen where there is an option "Economic". It that is left on it will turn off the bed heater during the print.


4

You cannot endlessly increase the retraction distance, doing so leads to different problems as you encountered. As a rule of thumb, the retraction distance should not exceed the length of your nozzle. Depending on the type of extruder, many printers use a value between 2 and 7 mm (e.g. the Ultimaker Cura retraction length is 6.5 mm at 25 mm/s, ...


4

Edit: The z-hop problem has been fixed in Cura 4.2. This is a known issue with Cura 4.1 when z-hop is enabled. If you touch the z-axis motor frame while it is apparently stationary, you may feel it is actually moving. The solution is to set a value (I used something like 250 in conjunction with an Ender 3) for the "Maximum Z Speed". First you need to get ...


4

Thermal runaway protection (see What is Thermal Runaway Protection?) is triggered when the scheduled voltage to the heater element does not result in a specified increase in temperature within a specified timeframe. The exit of hot filament from the nozzle and the loss of heat of the heater block and the conduction heat loss through the heat break to the ...


4

I have found that normal measuring devices are not particularly helpful with accurately measuring nozzle diameters. But you're already off to a great start. What is helpful is to take them somewhere that has a wide assortment of drill bits, and find which two adjacent sizes will and will not fit in the (clean) nozzle; then convert the diameters to mm (if ...


4

The correct tool for measuring a hole usually is a Bore Gauge, but that doesn't work for super small holes like nozzles and generally needs holes at least 5 mm in diameter. For those small holes, there's a different tool: These are Thread Measuring Wires of known diameter. While generally used to find out the depth of thread you are dealing with in a ...


3

This is a NEMA 17 motor. It is virtually identical to the NEMA 17 motors Creality uses in most of their 12V products. In contrast to other companies, Creality uses a different connector with a flat ribbon cable instead of color-coded wires. The upper line of the label identifies it more clearly: JD Identifies the factory/manufacturer 42 identifies the ...


3

You are looking for a capacitor that must be connected to Pin 4 of the LM2596. Maybe you could provide a better picture of that area so we could see the different tracks on the board. The LM2596 is in the center of the right side of the board (it is also labeled with LM2596D). The pins should be counted from top to bottom (in your picture) My guess is, ...


3

This answer addresses the input voltage. If you look up the official replacement board at the official Creality store the board features a single pair of connectors next to it says: 12 V / 24 V. So you can either use 12 V, or 24 V, not both. An internal regulator will most probably reduce the voltage anyways. Please note that (kindly reminded by user ...


3

I've had a similar issue once. It was caused by very slight misconfiguration in filament feed rate (my printer tried to push through too much filament). While it was technically overextruding, I didn't realize that until I measured my extrusion lengths. Overextrusion could also contribute to stringing. When you pull out the filament from your extruder after ...


3

No, this is not common behavior, and yes this can cause your prints to warp or detach from the build plate. The question is whether you instructed this (by accident) or not (e.g. it can be a result from slicing or some economy mode of the printer). This should be clear if you look into the G-code file that you print. The typical commands that concern bed ...


3

I resorted to google to find a candidate image which might be similar to your hotend. Now, it is safe to assume that a like-for-like replacement will not improve matters significantly. It is also a good assumption that the performance gap which you need to close is small. Presumably you know how much time you need to wait for the creep to manifest itself so ...


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