3

Issue seems to be resolved. I deleted my Marlin copy, downloaded a fresh copy and I started again. What worries me is how a working copy and a working printer can suddenly have this issue. Feel like this issue could come back as I never found the root cause.


3

It could be caused by software or configuration issue. Possibility 1: just worked after re-installation of Marlin You could have Z steps/mm set to 0 in EEPROM, and did not notice that fact. It is possible to fix this unconsciously with Marlin software reinstallation, following the upgrade procedure which included reset of EEPROM settings - like "Step 4: ...


2

If you power the printer and it starts heating up the hotend, it most probably is caused by a faulty controller board. More specific, the MOSFET (as in an electronic switch component) controlling the current to the heater element is causing this. MOSFET devices usually fail short-circuit implying that when the MOSFET has failed, the current can freely run to ...


2

File name is too long, I had the same issue, shortened the file name and now printing perfect


2

Comparing printing results of some G-code with results of samples generated by a slicer with many unknown settings is too superficial. You need to do more insight. You can learn by comparing G-code files, but I suppose it would not be sufficient to have successful prints. You can also learn from tutorials on how to properly configure slicer. Understanding ...


2

Okay, to anyone who is looking at this post, I am an idiot. I have spent the last 4 or more hours sifting through youtube videos and forum posts to figure out this problem. I have reinstalled firmware modifications dozens of times. All of this, to just now discover that I never had the bed or hotend cables connected. That's right, I never even considered the ...


1

octopus8 recommended doing a series of tests to determine the cause of the problem. I started with moving the bed by hand (remember to have machine off or choose "Disable steppers" from "Prepare" menu) and the movement was relatively smooth with some resistance, the same as when moving the X-axis. If you move very slowly you can feel ...


1

3D printers like the German Reprap (see image) already uses a photosensor for homing the axes. The trick will be leveling the leveling sensors. However, if you use an optical sensor measuring distance, you could mount it on the hotend like we do digital indicators (drop gauge). See Bed leveling method? You would want a resolution of about 0.01 mm. That ...


1

I got the answer now, it has to do with the resolution settings in the lithophane software I was using. I had to set minimum resolution of the lithophane to 0.4 or 0.8 (I'm using a 0.4 mm nozzle).


1

Maybe it's a bad batch of filament, with dirt or uneven thickness that wouldn't be noticeable in regular printing. Have you tried a different spool or brand?


1

On a Mac it is easy enough to format an SD card to FAT32 using diskutils, but this doesn't do it quite properly. Many resources state that for devices like the LCD on the CR10s Pro, the SD card must also be formatted with an "Allocation Block Size" of 4096, and unfortunately diskutils doesn't do this. You can force the correct settings using ...


1

In your slicer check your z-seam overlap. Lines like that are what happens when a slicer is systematically trying to hide a seam while not adding a ton of time onto the print by adding in a bunch of additional time for travel.


1

If it's a printer stock, no modifications, obviously you don't need to change the hot end, Creality did not release a printer without testing it. At least, no such extreme issues can be expected. Check the fan power, wear, and settings.


1

Depending on your slicer, there might be settings that modify the flow ratio, First layer height or extrusion width for the first few layers. If those are different from the modifiers for the rest of the print you might be able to play around with these variables.


1

It's in the firmware Filament runout sensors generally trigger M600. Usually that preserves the bed temperature, but some firmware distributions might have this set up wrong. How is M600 working? The firmware dictates what is done in case of filament runout. The standard settings in configuration.h can look like this: //#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR #if ...


1

There is no easy way to keep the bed heated during pause Looking at the sourcecode, I am pretty sure that the current version (10/29/2019) keeps the heated bed at the right temperature. Features are built into the firmware. You need an Arduino and some wires to write new firmware to the built-in SOC. Adjusting the code should be as simple as commenting a ...


1

To address the firmware problems, Download a fresh edition of Marlin 2.0.x and configure the Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h yourself. Others' configurations are expecting fully stock parts, and will not be compatible with your system. Your main problem seems to be in your Probe Z-Offset. To get good level, you need to calculate how far above the bed ...


1

The board that's installed in your machine appears to be the Creality v2.4 / v2.4.1 board, which is the correct board for your printer. It is distinguishable by the 30-pin ribbon connector, which is used to connect to the rest of the printer. The board in the tech support pictures is the v2.5.2 "silent board", designed for printers such as the non-...


1

This is classic Layer Shift in the Y plane. This happens in one of three cases: Belt too loose Belt too tight Bed movement hindered The belt should ring and resonate when tapped, giving a nice tune. I haven't really tuned mines, but my ender3 (250 mm bed movement in total) has about a G major. The bed movement should be, with motors off, easy and smooth. ...


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