3

Layer shifting has two basic causes: the partially printed part moves or flexes, or the bed or Y carriage (almost always -- they seem rather uncommon on the X axis) skips one or more steps in one direction or the other. Permanent layer shifts -- that is, where the entire print above the shift is and remains shifted -- are more likely to be the latter; ...


3

Cura has a lot of bad defaults, but also a lot of defaults that are chosen to let you get acceptable prints out of a really bad printer, a miscalibrated printer, or a printer with bad firmware. Printing at anything above very low speeds requires compensation for the differing pressure needed to move material through the nozzle at different flows. The printer ...


3

There are really no reasons not to convert to direct drive, provided you use a good one. Many of the direct drive kits, especially the ones that reuse the existing giant NEMA-17 stepper, are not very good and have tradeoffs due to excessive mass on the toolhead, imbalanced mass, interference with frame reducing print volume, etc. The modern way to do direct ...


2

This problem (of spontaneous restarting during printing) appears to be solved. The Cause The apparent cause was a combination of push-on spade connectors on the power switch that were looser than ideal, likely specified that way in order to facilitate mass production (the tighter such a connector is, the more difficult it is to assemble, leading to slower ...


2

This may be due to uneven cooling. The part cooling fan only comes from one direction on the Ender 3 series of printers. You may be able to solve the issue by printing the walls from the outside in. If not, I recommend printing a fan shroud that has part cooling ducts on both sides; there are plenty of them on thingiverse.


2

200°C is way too cold for printing PETG, especially with the Ender 3's weak extruder (ungeared, single flat hob with minimal contact with the filament) that already struggles with PETG. Probably it barely manages to keep up while the flow is low enough, but starts slipping in the extruder at some point in your print that needs higher flow, and then the torn-...


2

The VOC issue is overblown. Unless you print constantly, you don't need any air treatment. Often that kind of treatment is installed by people who like DIY for the fun of it, not because it's really needed. Characterization of volatile organic compound emissions from consumer level material extrusion 3D printers shows that dangerous chemicals may, in some ...


2

This is a known issue with the v4.2.2 mainboard relating to overheating. Continued overheating will eventually result in the extruder controller on the mainboard going bad. Solution: Mainboard change to version 4.2.7 and raise your unit to create more air flow. You could also add a fan under the printer.


2

That is the print stringing still. Even thought that you have your printer dialed in, the plastic that is still in the nozzle is still grabbing onto your print and pulling out the nozzle just a tad. This, as far as I know, is unavoidable. The best solution that I could think of fixing this (as far as having your print come perfect off of the bed) would if a ...


1

Looking at your prints, the problem is possibly related to the fade out height of the BLTouch functionality. If you look closely at the 20x20x20 mm cube: half the print is fine (top half of the original correct cube) the bottom "half" (not really half as it is stretched) is porous (grey, indicating more space allowed than the correct layer height ...


1

For some filament materials an enclosure without ventilation is too warm. You could run a hose to the outside like a cloths dryer uses and use a fan to blow the air out through it. Then, a filtering system is unnecessary. My understanding is a resin printing system is more complex to maintain. You probably would only want to go that direction if you ...


1

It looks like a problem with the Z axis. It looks like it isn’t lifting the Z as much as it thinks it is, so each layer gets over extruded because it’s trying to pack too much plastic in a shortened height. I would try cleaning and lubricating the Z rod(s) (with grease, not oil) and run the z axis up all the way and back down a few times, and watch for ...


1

No, settings are stored in memory (or the equivalent storage location). When a new firmware is uploaded, the values set in the newly configured firmware can be set by Restore Defaults from the Marlin printer LCD the user interface. Alternatively, you could print a G-code file containing M502 and M500, or send them over using a console. M502 Reset all ...


1

Try using some halogen bulbs (for example car healights) with a heat resistant shiny reflector to increase the temperature of the printed part without having to increase the air temperature. You can easily reach 90 °C with 4 bulbs (one per corner, pointed to the center). And until you find a good print settings, I would still stick with 110-120% line width. ...


1

These are (at least almost certainly) not layer shifts. A layer shift is when the physical toolhead position becomes inconsistent with the logical one because a stepper motor missed a step or the bed surface shifted or something else went wrong. It's possible for them to reverse if the same happens in the opposite direction at a later layer, but very ...


1

Zeiss Ikon's answer is good - but just in case that doesn't solve it, have you printed larger / longer prints before? There's a well known problem with the Ender 3's 4.2.2 motherboard that causes layer shifts as it overheats on longer prints. You can try elevating the printer and putting a fan underneath to see if that changes anything. (I had that problem ...


1

I sounds like you are on the edge of almost heat creep if you start printing before the extruder cools off. See if letting the extruder cool down to near room temperature solves the problem.


1

This was happened because I don't use support on the slope. After I use support the jagged edge is gone.


1

These stringers are common with PETG. You can reduce them by: Increasing retraction reduces the stringers, but too much retraction can cause the filament to jam and stop extruding. Lowering the extruder temperature will reduce the stringers, but also reduce adhesion between layers. Stringers usually aren't an issue on the 1st layer, so you can keep the ...


1

I got a roll of Hatchbox PETG and the prints are fantastic. Small test prints don't break along the layers even at higher fan speeds. The problem was the Polymax PETG. I took a look at the TDS for it and the impact strength on standing samples was only 29% of the standing ones. I believe the Polymax PETG just has inherent layer adhesion problems. Please ...


1

I had the same issue and thought I bricked it, so thank you for getting me on the right path! For Ender 3 Pro v4.2.2 motherboard, no Pinboard A, ISP Pinboard, or Burner required! In my case, I had used the provided pins (white housing) that were on the v4.2.2 motherboard itself. In doing so I had to switch the positions of the red and blue wires in the 3-pin ...


1

This is opinion-based, but the volcano has drawbacks that affect print quality, mine is oozier and sloppier than a V6 with the shorter, more precise melt zone. It isn’t a slam dunk upgrade, more of a special applications part. I think there is no point to using a Volcano unless you’re running big nozzles fast, like .8 mm. Your 5 mm3/s throughput is low, the ...


1

To build in 0scar's answer, standard nozzle width is 0.4 mm, so using a width of 0.5 mm will likely make the slicer extrude the edge as two extrusion lines, either with one of them very thin (which is hard to print precisely), or overextruded so that the total width is closer to 0.8 mm. You should probably aim for exactly the nozzle/line width, or since that ...


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