6

Variable layer height is a setting of the slicer, not an ability of the printer itself. However, the printer must be able to print at such layer heights. Any FDM (Fused deposition modeling ) or FFF (fused filament fabrication) printer, which is the type you describe in the question, is able to print at 0.1 to 0.3 mm with at least a 0.4 mm nozzle diameter. ...


6

It's common for modeling software to flip normals, causing what you describe. You said, I only care about the externally facing faces. But are you sure they are truly externally facing? Turn on normals in Blender and ensure that all the arrows/pointers are external. Another problem that can generate the results you're seeing are self-intersecting surfaces, ...


6

First of all, the bed should be at 100-110 °C and fan 0 %. I had incredibly good results by using a (sacrificial) "draft shield" as shown below together with a large brim (10 mm). It creates a warmer micro-climate which keeps the print a bit warmer, with much less warping. My printer bed back then was 130x130 mm, therefore drafts were strong. You ...


6

It turns out the extruder was slipping, but not due to a nozzle or Bowden tube pressure issue. The extruder arm (?) that holds the passive wheel (as opposed to the drive gear) was cracked, so the pressure between the wheel and the gear was weak. A bit of glue fixed it. These printers should ship with metal extruders, I think. EDIT The arm broke again, and ...


6

TL;DR: Don't do that. Detailed answer: You need motion limit parameters that actually make physical sense, and firmware capable of executing a motion plan according to them. Your jerk and acceleration settings absolutely don't. Marlin's whole implementation of jerk is wacky (note: modern Marlin versions don't even use it but an alternative they call "...


5

Total user error on my end. With the new version of this app somehow I did not catch that material selected on the UI dropdown was set to some custom material and not Generic PLA. Once I selected the proper material, all worked as expected.


5

Rhino gives the following output for MeshRepair Mesh has 3 degenerate faces. (a face that's actually a line or a point) Mesh has 42 non manifold edges. (a line where 3 or more faces meet, possibly caused by degenerate faces) Mesh has 6 duplicate faces. (faces that share the same coordinates) Mesh has 148 naked edges (edges that have only one face) All of ...


5

There are several problems at work here: Internal Geometry & unjoined parts Missing Surfaces Generally inverted surfaces: every surface is inside out! Fixing it! Step 1: add missing surfaces. Select the vertices around the hole that has no bottom surface and then pres F to create a surface. Use several steps, making roughly triangle surfaces. For ...


5

Unless you enclose the printer fully in some way or another, I see problems, even beyond just print quality: humidity can and will end inside the printer by condensation and destroy the electronics, especially in the fall and winter months. being accessible, children from the neighborhood might get their stubby fingers into the running machine or throw off ...


4

This is an older Ender 3 Pro, they at one point came with these press-fit gears, these are not intended to be removed which is a poor design decision. I would recommend buying a new motor than going through the hassle of removing it.


4

Yes, they are shipping the v2 with the 4.2.2 board. My understanding is that the 4.2.7 board has a change in the stepper driver pinout but is otherwise the same as 4.2.2. The change in the pinout allowed them to change the stepper driver package as the stepper driver vendor appears to be changing that spec. I've used both boards in my V2 with no ...


4

Resolved : connected the white & black wires to the 5 pin output on the board. This solved the homing issue.


4

Without knowing exactly which Youtube videos you've looked at, I think where I would start is by downloading the latest Marlin Fimrware and configuration files for the Ender 3 with 4.2.7 board: Latest Release of Marlin Firmware on Github Configuration File Repository on Github Microsoft visual Studio PlatormIO If I were doing your upgrade in your place, I ...


4

It seems the pinout scheme changed on the Creality board between the versions V4.2.2 and 4.2.8. For example, PB9 & PC2 were inverted between step_pin and dir_pin. Using the following Klipper config (found here) allows the motors to do their job again. [stepper_x] step_pin: PB9 dir_pin: PC2 enable_pin: !PC3 step_distance: .0125 endstop_pin: ^PA5 ...


4

You make no mention of a heated enclosure, so I assume you aren't using one. ABS undergoes significant contraction as it cools down. If you're not using an enclosure, the temperature differences between the heated bed, the cool middle of the print, and the heat of the freshly-printed plastic will cause severe warping.


4

This is a common issue, there are a number of problems that could cause an extruder motor on the Ender 3 to skip steps besides the stepper needing an increase in current. If the extruder motor is missing steps--which usually results in a periodic clicking noise--this is likely due to one of the following common problems. Nozzle is too close to bed Print ...


4

What's causing this warping/lifting? The warping and lifting is caused by insufficient adhesion. This can be caused by an incorrect first layer (it is difficult to see the raft, but generally, rafts have no solid bottom, so less adhesion as there is less material), e.g. not sufficiently squished to the plate. Note that a raft is absolutely unnecessary for ...


4

This is a big red flag and severely wrong: 93 had to be changed to 150 steps/mm It can be reasonable to tune steps per mm by a few percent, but needing an increase of more than 50% versus the standard value for the same physical gearing indicates either you did something wrong in computing the needed value, or some other serious root problem with the ...


4

After depressing the retaining ring, try pushing the Bowden tube further in to the coupler. This should disengage the internal sprung clip, and allow removal of the Bowden tube. Good quality pneumatic couplings should allow many insertion and removal cycles, although the couplings that Creality use have a reputation for early failure.


4

No hotend upgrade is required to print PETG on an Ender 3 (pro or any other variant). The stock hotend can be used at temperatures up to 250 ˚C, and 230-245 ˚C is the range typically recommended for PETG. I print it at 245 ˚C. You may however want to upgrade the extruder. The stock extruder lacks both torque and grip, and significantly skips/slips when ...


4

I removed the mat from the bed and popped the print off


3

It turned out, it was a faulty heater, that wasn't able to reach and maintain temperatures over 195 °C in a stable manner. The order came, had a new 50 W heater, thermistor and a PTFE-Bowden tube. It works just fine again, now!


3

Step 1: stop using paper and get some feeler gauges. The gauge should be able to just barely pass under the HEATED nozzle. Step 2: What are you using for bed adhesion? I use Elmer's white glue. After you think you've trammed (aka levelled) the bed, apply a generous layer of the glue in a coat on the bed. Let it dry. Step 3: Verify bed level with a large ...


3

Conclusion So I found my mistake: It was the E-Steps I did wrong it over extruded. The best E-Steps per mm are 92 for me. The mistake took place because I took my E-step number from a Video Tutorial about my dual extruder. I found the optimal number by testing out; the formula I got for the E-Steps was in the Video and I think I used it wrong, I'll watch ...


3

I have found the issue. My extruder gear was deformed after 4 months of continuous use which made the extruder have a difficult time when a rapid change in extrusion happened. I swapped it out to a new stainless steel one and it has been working well so far. EDIT: These inconsistencies are mainly caused by the pressure in the nozzle not changing fast enough. ...


3

Stringing may depend on sub-optimal retraction settings: when retraction is fast and high enough, the string may be cut and disappear. You may want to at least try to optimise retraction, at least to exclude that parameter. There is a tool designed to properly tune retraction: http://retractioncalibration.com/ What it does is print a tower with multiple ...


3

I had the same problem with the pressed on gear. With WD40 and een center punch the gear came off allright. The next problem was the shaft that is to short and perfectly round. With a small grinder (Dremel) I created a flat spot. I carefully tapped the shaft from the bottom of the motor until it was sticking out enough on the top side. Now is works perfectly ...


3

I initially tightened the tensioner for the x-axis belt pulley, which seemed to help. Then I double-checked my installation, and realized the belt for the x-axis was on upside down (belt teeth go in, smooth side of belt out). So I guess it’s actually more surprising it’s been working well until now...


3

Level the bed Make sure that the bed is level. The nozzle must be equally high over heated surface, otherwise only part of the print will have chance to be smeared and adhere properly. Clean thoroughly First thing I do when I notice that increasing bed temperature does not work anymore, is washing the glass with soap or detergent. Some advice to use also ...


3

You should do a complete calibration for ABS (temperature tower, E steps, flowrate %) before starting the print, then when you change filament remember to apply all the parameters I mentioned. While I'm not in favour of using the flow rate % to correct the E steps calibration, since you are doing it mid print this may be the easiest way, instead of changing ...


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