If you use the OctoPrint print manager, you can exclude regions to be printed using the Exclude Region plugin. The description states that it can be used to rescue partially-failed prints:
The intent of this plugin is to provide a means to salvage multi-part prints where one (or more) of the parts has broken loose from the build plate or has otherwise ...
Variable layer height is a setting of the slicer, not an ability of the printer itself.
However, the printer must be able to print at such layer heights. Any FDM (Fused deposition modeling
) or FFF (fused filament fabrication) printer, which is the type you describe in the question, is able to print at 0.1 to 0.3 mm with at least a 0.4 mm nozzle diameter.
your print surface is destroyed
So, you managed to rip off your print surface in the center. Happened to me too. the corners of my scraper were too sharp, cutting the surface. Another time I did pierce the surface with my nozzle. Damage happens. Replacement surfaces for the Ender3 start at about 5 bucks a piece. So get yourself some spares. Clean your bed ...
IMHO, it's probably better to get the printer as-is first. This way you can get familiar with the printer and 3D printing in general before you get overwhelmed with all the extra introduced variables from your upgrades.
The new model already has loads of features that were considered upgrades on the older model and you can already get very nice results.
Total user error on my end. With the new version of this app somehow I did not catch that material selected on the UI dropdown was set to some custom material and not Generic PLA. Once I selected the proper material, all worked as expected.
It's common for modeling software to flip normals, causing what you describe. You said,
I only care about the externally facing faces.
But are you sure they are truly externally facing? Turn on normals in Blender and ensure that all the arrows/pointers are external.
Another problem that can generate the results you're seeing are self-intersecting surfaces, ...
Your calculations about the theoretical extruder resolution are spot on. I did a similar calculation to evaluate which extruder to use with different hot ends, I paste the results. The dark cells are the input cells, the rest is calculated. You can see that for some lines I entered directly the mm/microstep value, since I wanted not a theoretical but ...
Provided that the print hasn't come loose from the bed and you know the layer height or layer number, you can edit the original G-code file. The following hints should be taken into account:
Don't use G28 or G29 instead use G28 X Y (please )
Manually position the printhead at the correct Z height and instruct the printer to use that height for reference: e....
Mick is right that you can do this with OctoPrint and maybe other print managers, and 0scar is right that there's no way to get the printer to stop printing the no-longer-wanted part when printing without a print manager (since it doesn't know about objects). However there is a way to recover and keep the non-failed parts if you're willing to waste material ...
If the V roller wheels aren't tight on the Y axis beam, it means the eccentric nuts are not adjusted correctly. Two of the rollers are mounted centered on the holes in the carriage frame, but the other two are on eccentric nuts which displace them from center slightly depending on the orientation the nut is turned to, to allow tightening and loosening of the ...
Not easily. Some folks have been messing with both 2 and 3 LCDs and based on their posts, the pinout is different between the two.
Ender 2 display pinout from when one GuzLightyear figured it out for Marlin (MKS MINI 12864 LCD):
5V | · · | GND
MOSI | · · | LCD_RS
LCD_A0 | · · || BTN_EN2
RESET | · · | BTN_EN1
BTN_ENC | · · ...
Rhino gives the following output for MeshRepair
Mesh has 3 degenerate faces. (a face that's actually a line or a point)
Mesh has 42 non manifold edges. (a line where 3 or more faces meet, possibly caused by degenerate faces)
Mesh has 6 duplicate faces. (faces that share the same coordinates)
Mesh has 148 naked edges (edges that have only one face)
All of ...
There are several problems at work here:
Internal Geometry & unjoined parts
Generally inverted surfaces: every surface is inside out!
Step 1: add missing surfaces.
Select the vertices around the hole that has no bottom surface and then pres F to create a surface. Use several steps, making roughly triangle surfaces. For ...
Without knowing exactly which Youtube videos you've looked at, I think where I would start is by downloading the latest Marlin Fimrware and configuration files for the Ender 3 with 4.2.7 board:
Latest Release of Marlin Firmware on Github
Configuration File Repository on Github
Microsoft visual Studio
If I were doing your upgrade in your place, I ...
It seems the pinout scheme changed on the Creality board between the versions V4.2.2 and 4.2.8. For example, PB9 & PC2 were inverted between step_pin and dir_pin.
Using the following Klipper config (found here) allows the motors to do their job again.
Had a similar problem with my Ender 5, just a 'static like' shock, not continous.
Put a multimeter between printer frame & earth with printer switched ON & it read 20+ volts ac continously! With printer OFF there was about 0.5V ac.
I connected an additional earth wire from the psu earth terminal to the printer frame & now no more shocks.
I can ...
I have found the issue. My extruder gear was deformed after 4 months of continuous use which made the extruder have a difficult time when a rapid change in extrusion happened. I swapped it out to a new stainless steel one and it has been working well so far.
These inconsistencies are mainly caused by the pressure in the nozzle not changing fast enough. ...
Stringing may depend on sub-optimal retraction settings: when retraction is fast and high enough, the string may be cut and disappear.
You may want to at least try to optimise retraction, at least to exclude that parameter.
There is a tool designed to properly tune retraction:
What it does is print a tower with multiple ...
There is a lot of misinformation in the 3D printing world about "all-metal hotends" being an upgrade. Some of them, especially clones, are not even all-metal but just poor lookalikes that create all sorts of problems. But even if you get a real one, it's a trade-off, not an upgrade. It lets you print materials that need a hotend temperature over ...
The mystery is solved. The BlTouch probe was slightly blocked and reported (supposedly) being in touch with the plate. Just touching it released the probe from the stuck position and all works well now.
Due to direct sunlight, I overlooked the warning blinking red colour of the BlTouch.
I'm an Ender 3 Pro user and I've been through almost every problem this machine has.
If you are on original hotend and Bowden style extruder, then first try the hot end PTFE fix
What the picture may show is a temperature too low, especially on these bad layers. Raise the temperature like you have tried (200 °C is good).
To avoid prints being knocked off ...
So I found my mistake: It was the E-Steps I did wrong it over extruded. The best E-Steps per mm are 92 for me. The mistake took place because I took my E-step number from a Video Tutorial about my dual extruder. I found the optimal number by testing out; the formula I got for the E-Steps was in the Video and I think I used it wrong, I'll watch ...
Step 1: stop using paper and get some feeler gauges. The gauge should be able to just barely pass under the HEATED nozzle.
Step 2: What are you using for bed adhesion? I use Elmer's white glue. After you think you've trammed (aka levelled) the bed, apply a generous layer of the glue in a coat on the bed. Let it dry.
Step 3: Verify bed level with a large ...
It turned out, it was a faulty heater, that wasn't able to reach and maintain temperatures over 195 °C in a stable manner. The order came, had a new 50 W heater, thermistor and a PTFE-Bowden tube. It works just fine again, now!
This is an older Ender 3 Pro, they at one point came with these press-fit gears, these are not intended to be removed which is a poor design decision. I would recommend buying a new motor than going through the hassle of removing it.
Level the bed
Make sure that the bed is level. The nozzle must be equally high over heated surface, otherwise only part of the print will have chance to be smeared and adhere properly.
First thing I do when I notice that increasing bed temperature does not work anymore, is washing the glass with soap or detergent. Some advice to use also ...
Open PrusaSlicer, go to Configuration -> Configuration wizard, then go to page named "Other Vendors", tick the checkbox next to the name "Creality", then click "Next" at the bottom right of the window. A page with a handful of Creality printers should appear including Ender 3. Tick the checkbox under Creality Ender 3. Then ...
Okay, so like suggested I put it into 3D Builder (A free Windows 3D modeling program). I imported it as an stl, then exported it as an stl and imported that stl into Cura. And lo and behold all problems were gone! If you are having a similar issue give that a try! The 3D Builder program and similar ones are designed to export for the sole purpose of 3D ...