19

There are three reasons (I can think of): A large problem you'd face with allowing the bed to cool after first layer is you stand the chance of losing adhesion after it cools. When you heat the bed, it expands somewhat. When it cools it contracts. It has been known for parts to actually pop off the bed if left on there to cool (after a print). If you allow ...


3

For long prints, if turning off bed heating saves money, throwing out the filament from a detached print costs you more. The risk to gain ratio is very skewed. The “savings” in turning off the bed are considerably negative, and, as pointed out, the risk of losing the print is increased.


3

PETG requires a heated bed otherwise it will shrink, detach from the platform and begin curling at the edges. PLA, however in some situations does not require a heated build platform. It depends on the build surface. Some surfaces need to be hot to work, and some do not. Keeping it on helps stop the part from cooling too quickly as well. However with the ...


3

Once you pull the plug or disable power to the stepper motors, the printer forgets its location. That is perfectly normal and exactly how it is supposed to work. The printer knows where the printer volume is once you have "homed" the printer. Homing is done prior to printing with G-code G28 which should be present in your start G-code script of ...


3

I have the WhamBam system which uses a PEX layer over flex steel (which sticks to a magnetic sheet on the printer bed). To clean old material off, I use a "brass sponge" intended for cleaning soldering iron tips to remove the old plastic, then give it a wipe with a paper towel with some isopropyl alchohol (I have 99.99 anhydrous on hand as I use that for ...


2

From experience I can tell you that boxing it up completely is not always a good thing to do. I have covered the front and top of an Ultimaker 3E printer to find out after some printing time that the cold ends weren't getting enough cooling, so I ended up clogging the nozzle assembly, preventing finishing the print. If you need to box it up to create a ...


2

Sides without a top will help. Sides with a top will help more. Do you need either? That depends. How warm, how dry, how drafty is your printing room?


2

The MKS GEN L board was added in Marlin release 1.1.7 . According to the configuration file you've linked and previous Marlin releases, your copy of Marlin is release 1.1.6. While all Marlin releases before 1.1.7 had "010100" as "CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION", earlier versions had less features than listed in your configuration file. In Marlin 2.0.x, the MKS ...


2

There's a couple of Cura settings that can help, that I know of: In the 'Travel' section, change "Combing Mode" to "not in skin". Combing means it tries to move the head over areas that have already been printed. This is a good thing most of the time, but if it does it while it's ironing, it will make an annoying line. (I am not sure why this isn't ...


2

I've been digging into the sources and from what I understand, it is not very easy to change the menus, you should possess some programming skills to change it. It appears that the screen is operating on its own firmware and the board is running a special fork from Marlin. The screen is identified in code by constant CREALITY_DWIN. It appears that the ...


2

You may want to ensure that your filament diameter is correctly set in your printer's CURA profile, and that your hot end is at the correct temperature for the material you are using. Additionally, you should not need a raft to print the cube, and should be able to do without a raft or brim.


2

If it's just the pressure fitting on the brass coupler that shifts in/out, or the PTFE tube shifting slightly in/out but remaining in the coupler, that shouldn't be a problem unless it's so loose it can come out entirely. The blue clips which should have come with the printer are intended to stop this motion or at least provide enough pressure to prevent it ...


2

All the valid points of bed shrinking and dislocating your parts when cooling from the other answer aside there is also the added complexities both in testing reliability of such a thing that may or may not be applicable to all materials. The added complexity to the slicers to figure out when it is safe to turn off the bed which I would imagine depends on ...


2

Just about every reference I've seen for non-glass beds is to stay away from acetone. Denatured alcohol is likely a safe bet for beds with surfaces that are not impenetrable. If you can identify the bed material, you'll have a better shot at getting a definitive answer. If you have filament residue, you won't get it clear without some mechanical effort, ...


2

The fuse may be academic, because there might be an integrated fuseholder in the PSU itself. That said, adding another fuse in the form of a proper UK plug certainly won't hurt. I'd certainly do this, too. Fuseless plugs have no place in my home/workplace For the rest - yes, the 220V position for the switch is good. Grounding, again, certainly can't hurt, ...


2

Let's see what kind of errors I see (accumulated from what I commented): Underextrusion The legs seem rather underextruded. This could be a clogged nozzle as much as too fast printing or too low a temperature as well as too little pressure (e.g. miscalibrated extruder). Try a cleaning or a fresh nozzle, other playing with the parameter can wait after you ...


2

(Summed up from several entries in this thread.) It is untrue assumption that printer can't move back to home anymore, until the G-Code G28 is executed. Printer can home, but must be ordered to do it. There are several ways to home printer (LCD hints are for Marlin firmware): start the print, which (by the book) includes G28 in its initial part use LCD ...


2

If you want a more detailed answer, you need to give more details, e.g.; "What filament are you using?" "How old is the printer?" "What mods have you made to it?" I can tell you two possibilities. Either your x or y axis is slipping which could be because of worn out belts, belts that need to be tightened, or because of too much jerk. The other is ...


2

"Heater core" wires are not the same as thermistor wires, are they? Check if thermistor is properly connected? Reading -14 C in my case always pointed a disconnection of thermistor. (I didn't had a case of broken one so far.) In case of short it would probably show som max temperature (my guess, I dont want to try), but it is always good to check ...


2

Contrary to what's implied by its name, junction deviation does not produce rounded corners. It merely allows violations of the acceleration profile at corners that would be allowed if the corner were rounded by the deviation. So you should not expect changes to it to create or eliminate unwanted "rounded corners". However I don't think what you're ...


2

The Creality V1.1.5 board was fried. I replaced it with a BIGTREETECH SKR MINI E3 V2.0 32BIT CONTROLLER. After struggling to find a corresponding firmware for the Ender 5 pro, the axis motors worked correctly.


1

Searching the error message "Heating Failed: Bed Printer Halted, Please Reset" seems to indicate that the bed heater is timing out from not reaching temperature. If you measure the voltage applied to the bed heater before the error message, does the voltage stay at Max.; i.e. 12V for a 12V bed heater? Or, does the voltage stay constant? If you ...


1

This is varying underextrusion due to loss of material to oozing in the interior of the model. When printing the infill pattern, the nozzle doesn't follow a single continuous extrusion path, but moves from the end of one path to the beginning of the next, and under Cura defaults, does this without retracting the filament. This causes unpredictable amounts to ...


1

Now, all of that aside, I guess, in theory, it WOULD be possible for the printer to use these 16 measurements to dynamically ADJUST the height DURING THE PRINT based on where the head is SUPPOSED to be versus where the ACTUAL height of that spot actually IS. However, I cannot find anything that claims this is what happens This is actually what happens. This ...


1

How would one go about squaring the gantry relative to the frame? You first need to make sure that the cube/box frame is square. Once this is done, you need to check whether the gantry is still not perpendicular/parallel to the top frame. If not, you need to loosen the couplers at the front that control the Y movement of the printer. See if you can ...


1

yes Even with auto mesh bed leveling, you ought and should level the bed to a good degree to make the leveling not only more efficient: the mesh bed level is to work out small dimples and hills in the bed, bot to work with a crooked or heavily misaligned bed.


1

You need to order a new heating block (just a few bucks/euros, so order 2, and spare nozzles, you don't want to install the old nozzles), you completely worn out the threads, this is beyond repair. It looks as if you used too much force to secure the nozzle into place. This is how it is supposed to look: You can find these cheaply at those typical Chinese ...


1

If the threads are damaged badly enough not to hold a nozzle rigidly, you should replace the heating block, but there might be hacks you could do to keep using it for a while until you're ready to replace. I've had luck replacing threads in completely unrelated applications with epoxy, and if you can get one that handles and transmits the heat well enough (...


1

Safety First! To guarantee proper grouning and avoid putting the machine on a static charge level against the ground of the house you need to properly connect the ground wires to the ground wire of the house. This is done by using a grounded power cord with a C13-plug on the machine end and a proper, grounded plug fitting your sockets on the other end. ...


1

As the commenter suggested (thanks, 0scar!), the culprit appears to have been a Cura update and a change to the support material settings. In my case, the defaults for Z distance and even the X/Y distance for support material, in addition to the density, was creating very effective supports, but very tricky to remove. I should add that the model was a ...


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