19

There are three reasons (I can think of): A large problem you'd face with allowing the bed to cool after first layer is you stand the chance of losing adhesion after it cools. When you heat the bed, it expands somewhat. When it cools it contracts. It has been known for parts to actually pop off the bed if left on there to cool (after a print). If you allow ...


7

If the image is suppose to be a 20 mm calibration Cube when it comes out half the height, your problem is the steps per millimeter of the Z-axis, not the extruder. The object you printer is half the height it is supposed to be, so the bed isn't lowering enough and requires more steps. You should double the current value. If the bed doesn't lower enough per ...


6

My guess is it's damaged print surface from the hot extruder mashing against the print surface. Your description seems to indicate that it isn't a layer.


4

By default, Windows does not come packaged with drivers for the CH340 USB Serial chipset the Creality Silent board has installed. To get your computer to properly recognize the printer, you will need to install the CH340 Driver software from WCH's website. (the company that manufactures the CH340 chip) As of August 2021, the download for the drivers can be ...


3

For long prints, if turning off bed heating saves money, throwing out the filament from a detached print costs you more. The risk to gain ratio is very skewed. The “savings” in turning off the bed are considerably negative, and, as pointed out, the risk of losing the print is increased.


3

PETG requires a heated bed otherwise it will shrink, detach from the platform and begin curling at the edges. PLA, however in some situations does not require a heated build platform. It depends on the build surface. Some surfaces need to be hot to work, and some do not. Keeping it on helps stop the part from cooling too quickly as well. However with the ...


3

Once you pull the plug or disable power to the stepper motors, the printer forgets its location. That is perfectly normal and exactly how it is supposed to work. The printer knows where the printer volume is once you have "homed" the printer. Homing is done prior to printing with G-code G28 which should be present in your start G-code script of ...


3

I have the WhamBam system which uses a PEX layer over flex steel (which sticks to a magnetic sheet on the printer bed). To clean old material off, I use a "brass sponge" intended for cleaning soldering iron tips to remove the old plastic, then give it a wipe with a paper towel with some isopropyl alchohol (I have 99.99 anhydrous on hand as I use that for ...


3

After hours of testing (which included reinstalling firmware, formatting various SD cards, and changing G-code and slicer settings), I did find a function to restore factory defaults and that did the trick. I'm still not sure how something wrong got stored in the memory but it did and resetting to factory defaults worked.


2

From experience I can tell you that boxing it up completely is not always a good thing to do. I have covered the front and top of an Ultimaker 3E printer to find out after some printing time that the cold ends weren't getting enough cooling, so I ended up clogging the nozzle assembly, preventing finishing the print. If you need to box it up to create a ...


2

Sides without a top will help. Sides with a top will help more. Do you need either? That depends. How warm, how dry, how drafty is your printing room?


2

The MKS GEN L board was added in Marlin release 1.1.7 . According to the configuration file you've linked and previous Marlin releases, your copy of Marlin is release 1.1.6. While all Marlin releases before 1.1.7 had "010100" as "CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION", earlier versions had less features than listed in your configuration file. In Marlin 2.0.x, the MKS ...


2

There's a couple of Cura settings that can help, that I know of: In the 'Travel' section, change "Combing Mode" to "not in skin". Combing means it tries to move the head over areas that have already been printed. This is a good thing most of the time, but if it does it while it's ironing, it will make an annoying line. (I am not sure why this isn't ...


2

I've been digging into the sources and from what I understand, it is not very easy to change the menus, you should possess some programming skills to change it. It appears that the screen is operating on its own firmware and the board is running a special fork from Marlin. The screen is identified in code by constant CREALITY_DWIN. It appears that the screen ...


2

You may want to ensure that your filament diameter is correctly set in your printer's CURA profile, and that your hot end is at the correct temperature for the material you are using. Additionally, you should not need a raft to print the cube, and should be able to do without a raft or brim.


2

If it's just the pressure fitting on the brass coupler that shifts in/out, or the PTFE tube shifting slightly in/out but remaining in the coupler, that shouldn't be a problem unless it's so loose it can come out entirely. The blue clips which should have come with the printer are intended to stop this motion or at least provide enough pressure to prevent it ...


2

All the valid points of bed shrinking and dislocating your parts when cooling from the other answer aside there is also the added complexities both in testing reliability of such a thing that may or may not be applicable to all materials. The added complexity to the slicers to figure out when it is safe to turn off the bed which I would imagine depends on ...


2

Just about every reference I've seen for non-glass beds is to stay away from acetone. Denatured alcohol is likely a safe bet for beds with surfaces that are not impenetrable. If you can identify the bed material, you'll have a better shot at getting a definitive answer. If you have filament residue, you won't get it clear without some mechanical effort, ...


2

The fuse may be academic, because there might be an integrated fuseholder in the PSU itself. That said, adding another fuse in the form of a proper UK plug certainly won't hurt. I'd certainly do this, too. Fuseless plugs have no place in my home/workplace For the rest - yes, the 220V position for the switch is good. Grounding, again, certainly can't hurt, ...


2

Let's see what kind of errors I see (accumulated from what I commented): Underextrusion The legs seem rather underextruded. This could be a clogged nozzle as much as too fast printing or too low a temperature as well as too little pressure (e.g. miscalibrated extruder). Try a cleaning or a fresh nozzle, other playing with the parameter can wait after you ...


2

(Summed up from several entries in this thread.) It is untrue assumption that printer can't move back to home anymore, until the G-Code G28 is executed. Printer can home, but must be ordered to do it. There are several ways to home printer (LCD hints are for Marlin firmware): start the print, which (by the book) includes G28 in its initial part use LCD ...


2

If you want a more detailed answer, you need to give more details, e.g.; "What filament are you using?" "How old is the printer?" "What mods have you made to it?" I can tell you two possibilities. Either your x or y axis is slipping which could be because of worn out belts, belts that need to be tightened, or because of too much jerk. The other is ...


2

"Heater core" wires are not the same as thermistor wires, are they? Check if thermistor is properly connected? Reading -14 C in my case always pointed a disconnection of thermistor. (I didn't had a case of broken one so far.) In case of short it would probably show som max temperature (my guess, I dont want to try), but it is always good to check ...


2

Contrary to what's implied by its name, junction deviation does not produce rounded corners. It merely allows violations of the acceleration profile at corners that would be allowed if the corner were rounded by the deviation. So you should not expect changes to it to create or eliminate unwanted "rounded corners". However I don't think what you're ...


2

Searching the error message "Heating Failed: Bed Printer Halted, Please Reset" seems to indicate that the bed heater is timing out from not reaching temperature. If you measure the voltage applied to the bed heater before the error message, does the voltage stay at Max.; i.e. 12 V for a 12 V bed heater? Or, does the voltage stay constant? If you ...


2

The Creality V1.1.5 board was fried. I replaced it with a BIGTREETECH SKR MINI E3 V2.0 32BIT CONTROLLER. After struggling to find a corresponding firmware for the Ender 5 pro, the axis motors worked correctly.


2

A BLTouch doesn't level the bed, it compensates for the geometry and adjusts print head movement, it is always required to tram (level) the bed with respect to the nozzle X-Y plane (of which the Z is perpendicular to this plane). If the build plate is skew, the bottom of the print will be skew, the top will be square with the head movement plane (the default ...


2

I've solved this now. Here's the problem: // pins_MELZI_CREALITY.h #define SERVO0_PIN 20 // Wondering if this is correct? Funnily enough, it wasn't correct. Pin 20 is the Z MIN pin, as defined in pins_MELZI_CREALITY.h, and not the servo pin used by the BLTouch module. At 8:04 of this youtube video, he says that that value should be set to 27, "if we'...


2

If it actually is residue from the material you were trying to print, pressed against the surface so tightly and so thin that you can't separate it, the best way to remove it is printing a new object on top of it, using the same material, with the bed properly leveled (i.e. not smashing the nozzle into it again) and with the bed and nozzle temperature high. ...


1

This is varying underextrusion due to loss of material to oozing in the interior of the model. When printing the infill pattern, the nozzle doesn't follow a single continuous extrusion path, but moves from the end of one path to the beginning of the next, and under Cura defaults, does this without retracting the filament. This causes unpredictable amounts to ...


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