4

Resolved : connected the white & black wires to the 5 pin output on the board. This solved the homing issue.


3

Yes, they are shipping the v2 with the 4.2.2 board. My understanding is that the 4.2.7 board has a change in the stepper driver pinout but is otherwise the same as 4.2.2. The change in the pinout allowed them to change the stepper driver package as the stepper driver vendor appears to be changing that spec. I've used both boards in my V2 with no ...


3

The heated bed alone draws 220 W of 24 V power, so I'm going to say no, you shouldn't attempt to run two Ender 3 machines from a single power supply. Instead, because the whole machine only draws about 3.5 A at 115 V (or half that at 230 V), you should consider installing a power strip or (better) a small UPS to both power both machines from your existing ...


3

Turns out I was using an old (and buggy) version of the software. The version I was using came on the supplied USB memory stick and was version 1.9-something. I downloaded the latest version (2.0-something) off the Creality website and now it doesn't appear to have the same problem.


2

The whole reason to pre-coat the plate with liquid resin is to ensure, that no air bubbles are left under it and prevent contact of the plate to the resin. A layer of cured resin throws off your 0.


1

According to Uncle Jessy (see Youtube channel), you simply need to pour some liquid resin over the build plate and then leave it for a couple of minutes for the worst to drip off. No He also recommends that the resin should be kept at a warm room temperature and that the bottle be thoroughly shaken before pouring it onto the build plate or into the resin vat....


1

Whenever the UI of a CR-6 doesn't function correctly after a firmware upgrade, either the firmware upgrade didn't go well or the firmware of the screen is no longer compatible with the firmware of the printer. If you know the screen and firmware are supposed to be compatible, try updating the firmware again. There is some sort of 'is this update the same as ...


1

The schematic attached to the cable shows the wiring for the sensor. There is BN+, BK, BU-; these are presumably the brown, black and blue wires respectively. The schematic BN+ is the positive supply wire (should be connected to 5V) and BU- the negative wire (should be connected to ground). BK is the output wire and should be connected to the endstop signal ...


1

That part seems dubious Your part is labeled LJ18A3-8-Z/BX. That is a Z/BX type sensor of the LJ18A3-8 series - that first part dictates an M18 outer thread and thus dimensions and a triggering distance of 8mm. Z/BX indicates NPN NO, so a normally open sensor of the NPN type. However, that labeling indicates an inductive sensor with a required supply voltage ...


1

If you need it to hold the thermistor in place, there are thermally conductive electrically insulating potting compounds, such as Appli-Thane® 7300 Urethane that have a temperature range of -100 to 160 °C. The newest CPU thermal pastes contain silver particles and will conduct electricity. So, it needs to stay away from leads and pads that don't want to be ...


1

I had the same issue and thought I bricked it, so thank you for getting me on the right path! For Ender 3 Pro v4.2.2 motherboard, no Pinboard A, ISP Pinboard, or Burner required! In my case, I had used the provided pins (white housing) that were on the v4.2.2 motherboard itself. In doing so I had to switch the positions of the red and blue wires in the 3-pin ...


1

Do the two loose pieces go where the fill shows up on the larger piece? If so, you may have internal surfaces there that need deleting in your drawing so that they don't mess up your slice program. Otherwise, the slice program may leave a gap in the gcode where you have no extrusion. If you retract too much, it can cause the filament to jam in the hotend, ...


1

I've seen a version of this error on my Ender 3 when I heated the hot end without the silicone sock (or any other insulating wrap). If this occurred after changing a nozzle, replacing a heat break (or entire hot end), installing a new cooling duct, or similar, it's likely you just inadvertently left off the insulation that should surround the heat block, ...


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