# Tag Info

10

Why is this so rare? Such kind of printers usually harder to assembles, calibrate, and maintain because 3 axes machine is a bit more complex than 2 axes. For instance, it's can be tricky to move an entire extruder among all 3 axis and some of such printer's designs may require even dedicated exruder's design like Bowden Extruders. Are there flaws in this ...

7

As a frame challenge, they kind of are. It's just that the optimal, and in some sense only reasonable, design for a fixed build platform that doesn't move on any axis is the delta robot geometry. This design is not the most popular, but it's far from obscure - there are lots of cheap entry-level delta printers available as well as higher-end ones. What makes ...

5

Within the realm of Cartesian machines (eg having orthogonal X, Y, Z axis) consider the sort of design you do see: the Ultimaker-like X-Y stage over a build platform which can drop. The question is then, why drop the build rather than raise the mechanism? Likely the reason is mechanical simplicity. The X-Y gantry is the part that moves around quickly and ...

4

Why is this so rare? This is rare because machine designers basically copy the designs that work, without trying to innovate too much. As a result of this, Adrian Bowyer's original RepRap design (a travelling type) is currently the most prominent desktop 3D printer design around. Are there flaws in this design? There aren't any flaws in the concept for a ...

4

To answer your question, yes, RAMPS 1.4 can be used for a 3D printer, but note that it is an outdated platform. But... From the supplied image can be concluded that the seller doesn't have a clue what is being sold in the webshop ( e.g. incorrect naming for the shield, 3 stepper motors and 4 stepper drivers?!?). This is not a RAMPS set (RAMPS is a shield for ...

3

Any pin that is labeled as "5 V" can supply the full amount of current. Looking at, for example, the Arduino MEGA pinout, we can see several pins labeled in red with "5 V". These are the pins you can use. Most 3D printer boards will expose the 5 V pins at several points. For example, the endstop connectors often have a 5 V pin that can be ...

3

There is no problem with using 4 motors instead of 5. The 5th slot is provided to enable use of a second extruders, but many people only have a single extruder printer and leave the 5th slot unused. how will Marlin figure out which slot the extruder is connected Which stepper motor is in which slot is something you can configure in the firmware. There is ...

2

I really hope the extruder doesn't warm up as this would be a problem with your stepper motor :) I'm sure you mean the hotend doesn't heat up. This could be a number of things but i would start to double check the pinout in your code vs the pins on your mainboard and measure if it gives 12v/24v (depending on your PSU) output. There's a lot more info ...

2

This blog post shows 3 main solutions: Flipping the motor cables (As suggested in the other answer) Switching the x and y-axis: This may switch the direction of your y-axis depending on the way your printer is setup) Change the direction of the axis in firmware which you can see below how to do: "When the solution opens up, you will see many different ...

2

Short answer Yes Long answer Heater bocks A heater block is destroyed if one of the following happens Threads stripped Bent or otherwise deformed stripped grub screw All of these can happen by handling the block with too much force when securing nozzles, thermosensors or heater cartridges. Throats Throats can be destroyed, especially e3D v6 throats with ...

2

Turns out that the Left and Right extruders turn the opposite direction so once I inverted E1 in marlin it is working fine.

2

The CoreXY kinematics can be seen as an evolution of the H-bot kinematics. In Marlin, you both need to configure the printer as a CoreXY machine. Note that your steps are determined by the pulleys in the steppers and need to be the same for the steppers. With testing you will find out if you have the correct value. There are many popular designs out there; e....

2

I'm can't say for sure, since this is my first time seeing this type of 3D printer configuration too, but I think this is a cartesian style printer. If you think about it, it is similar to a Prusa-style printer, but instead of an x-gantry being raised and lowered by a leadscrew, the heated bed is being lowered and raised with two leadscrews. Software-wise, ...

2

Each axis is fine using a different stepper size and/or quality. You will still need to tune their operating current and steps/mm for each of course. Make sure your motor mounts fit too. Where it might become challenging is if you wanted two different steppers on the SAME axis. As in, a NEMA17 + NEMA23 for a dual Z axis. I don't think this is what you intend ...

2

If the trouble was just a short between 5 V and ground, the board probably would restart whenever you pushed the button, with all kind of power sources. The fact that the Arduino restarts only when powered from RAMPS makes me wonder another cause for this problem. It's well known that most of Arduino clones don't have a good voltage regulator onboard. This ...

2

The resistance of the heated bed being too high can not have caused the MOSFET to burn out. Only a too low resistance could cause that. Keep in mind that measuring relatively low resistances (such as the one of your heated bed) is difficult, and if you just used a regular multimeter it might indicate a wrong value (e.g. due to the resistance of the test ...

2

Any 5 V "output" on those main boards would be used to power a USB host. This is because the electronics actually runs on 3.3 volts. It would be better to splice the input power (the 12 to 24 V) and use a buck converter to get down to your required 5 V. Select the right one, and you can have all the current you need.

2

The .stl files most commonly used for printing do not have any circles in them at all! .stl files describe the surface of the things they represent with lots and lots of triangles: That also means that your slicer doesn't really know which parts of the model are supposed to be round (where G2 and G3 might be applicable). And, another consideration, though ...

2

Your motherboard is not an MKS GEN L v1.0, it's a MKS SGEN L - unfortunately, a very very naming scheme. Your board is actually a 32-bit board, and must therefore be flashed with Marlin 2.0, built for the 32-bit board. The firmware is then updated by placing it on the SD card and restarting the board, as explained in the documentation for Marlin here

2

RAMPS capabilities To be more speficic: RAMPS board (versions 1.3 - 1.6) offer possibility to connect 5 stepper motor drivers (on the board marked X, Y, Z, E0, E1) and 6 stepper motors, because the Z axis motor's connector is doubled (this is classic design of reprap printer). I could also see other RAMPS versions/clones (1.6+, 1.7 prototype) which have ...

2

There are lots of ways from mere specifications to designs. Most follow several of the principles below, but designing a printer is not a light undertaking. it's HUGE. Copy and adapt The most easy way is to take a known design, for example from the RepRap wiki, and copy it verbatim. But it can easily undergo some adaptions, like different hotends or bed ...

1

You could use a "filament runout sensor" and combine it with a "filament running sensor". If either fails the controller needs to be notified by a signal. If you configure the Configuration.h filament runout setup such that it doesn't call M600 but instead a series of codes to park tool 0, activate tool 1, home tool 1, prime tool 1, and ...

1

You indicated that you were using 24 volts, implying you have a 24 volt bed. ATX power supplies do not have 24 volt outputs. The highest is 12 volts which would heat up the bed, but not fast or probably to full temperature.

1

It's almost always what you call system 2: The LCD screen is acting as a "mask" for the UV backlight, which is a strong bulb under it. This also is the reason that the screen degrades over time and that the machines need replacement bulbs: the heat from the UV source burns out the screen and itself over time. Both parts are consumable, just like ...

1

It could be a couple of issues: the heated bed tries to use more power than the ramps board is capable of because the traces on the board aren't big enough to get rid of the heat. the thermistor is broken / not properly connected or configured, and it keeps on heating the bed forever. a short somewhere in the wiring. My advice: Check the wiring. If there ...

1

Every time I.m will go to print, if turn off the machine, the process to be need repeat, in other words, the gcode M500 doesn't work. This tells me that your firmware has the EEPROM support needed for the M500 command disabled. Fixing the firmware You need to update your firmware to enable storing the information in the EEPROM: the line should read as ...

1

At the limit, precision is limited by the achievable positioning accuracy of the motors and the mechanical reflection of that precision into a linear position. With a belt drive, the mechanical precision for a stepper-motor system is the circumference of the drive pulley divided by the number of distinct step positions. A 1.5 degree stepper with 10::1 ...

1

In many years of building printers I only used ball screws for the Z-axis, and even then only for larger Makerbot and Ultimaker style designs that had a heavy platform. Even for the Z-axis, a good thick trapezoid screw with the right anti-backlash configuration is often enough because most printers are light and most slicers only print upwards. Modern belts ...

1

First of all, let's look at the geometry: We have a static XY and changing Z on our build plate. This mitigates several problems we might have faced in a different setup, mainly that our lead screw has loads changing from one face to the other: all loads always go into $-Z$, so the lower surface of the Trapezoidal threads in the brass nut of the bed carrier ...

1

Parts don't have to break or bent, they may become unusable by other issues as well! In addition to the answer of @Trish, if you clog your hotend, or the hotend/heater block/nozzle gets buried deep into solidified filament (see image below), it might be much easier just to replace the parts rather than salvaging the parts (or you can salvage the parts later,...

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