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I have tried to print the piece upside-down with the cave part facing down and it worked. Since the printer prints upside down, positioning the cave part facing up creates a suction-cup effect on the printer display that makes the whole structure stick to the lcd and detach from the supporting structure, thus making the print fail.

You can't print a LEGOTM Brick, because you are not Lego System A/S. The best you can do is print a brick that is compatible with LEGOTM bricks. Also note that Lego Systems A/S has more than 600 US design patents, which might interfere with the legality of manufacturing bricks in the US. The original bricks are made from ABS and made with a very tight ...

If the SLA Resin is not curing under the lamp after several hours, it is likely the lamp is not emitting the correct wavelength of UV light to properly cure your resin. Typical SLA resins cure at between 350-410 nm light. The listing you post does list the lamp as emitting 405 nm light, which would be in range. However, because of the failures you are ...

I actually found it easier to export my model as a single STL file, and then to open up 3D builder. It has a tool that let's you create a flat plane, and then slice a model into pieces using it. So long as you have a large enough surface area to glue, it shouldn't be a problem. I tried using booleans and the peg\hole method in Blender, but it simply wasn't ...

With so many questions, I'll provide a suggestion for your first one, the alignment option. There's a 12 minute YouTube video showing how to use Meshmixer (free, multi-platform) to create alignment pins and holes while segmenting a model for printing large items. The process involves making the cut, keeping both sections. A pin is created and sized, then ...

It's difficult to tell from the image, but one aspect of resin printing that you want to consider when placing a model is the cross-sectional area for each layer. You'll see prints that could be printed flat on an FFF printer being placed at an angle on a resin printer. This orientation presents a smaller cross-section and thereby a smaller amount of force ...

It also works with the .photon format of the Photon slicer. It is only marginally better than ChituBox though.

The rook is normally difficult to remove, it's designed this way. Have you tried resetting the height of you build Plate? If it makes a grinding sound when doing the first 2 or three layers your build plate might be traveling too low. Also try re-leveling your build plate, e.g. I pushed so hard when I tried to take my rook off that I un-leveled it.

let's go step by step - and rule out the unlikely sources. Since you get at least some results, UV source and screen seem unlikely. Then you might want to make sure that the resin is ok. Let's try to put a droplet onto a sheet of paper/foil, which you tape down outside in the sun or under a UV light source - if it cures, the resin is ok. The first real step ...