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The maker geeks formulation of PLA requires much hotter temperatures. The plastic was not melted enough for good flow.


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When I started printing ABS with my Prusa i3 MK3 MMU2+ printer, I started experiencing jams on some longer prints, which was heat creap, possibly combined with old filament. I improved the cooling by filling the gap between the sides of the heat sink and the plastic extruder body. I think I stuffed it with some soft foam rubber, but anything that can handle ...


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Annoyingly, this went away with a replacement board. I don't have a better fix.


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For both machines did you compare extruder's (E) steps/mm setting in Marlin and possibly stored in EPROM (so check from the LCD in Configuration>Advanced settings) ? Also stepper motors ... I believe they are exactly of the same type? There are 1.8 degree and 0.9 degree stepper motors on the market - so exactly doubled flow could be related to rotation. ...


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There are 3 effects at work, and you misread your micrometer: the measurement is 19.35 in the picture. You have a little lip There's a little lip at the top and bottom of the print. You'd need to clean that up with a sharp knife or sandpaper. That is the biggest part of the error you measure. Movement errors accumulate Errors also collect on the center of ...


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I was told to not even bother using the white filament which came with the Ender 5 as it was very low quality. I used an orange filament from Hatchbox and, once I have learned to adjust my settings (I found it works better at 210-215 °C), it seems to be great.


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Yes! 3D Printing upside would only potentially have an issue with the first layer if you're using an extremely large gap on the first layer, however in normal circumstances there's enough pressure that the filament is squished into the bed, if you've got one yourself you can put it on it's side, the question when it comes to 3D Printing isn't upside down, ...


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