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6

Yes. This question and most of the answers are old, and 3D printing has come a long way in the past 4 years or so. Alexandre Strube's bumping with one up-to-date answer inspired me to take another try at it, and my first attempt was an overwhelming success. Bolt printed in horizontal orientation (with support), nut vertical. Wall line width reduced from 0.4 ...


5

In addition the E axis is no longer controlled directly by the GCode, but it's motion is almost independently determined by the firmware. This is the case even without linear advance. G-code does not directly control the movement of any of the axes. G-code only specifies the path the axes should travel, but not the acceleration and deceleration associated ...


4

I just did. I printed a 4 screws at .2mm and 20% infill. surprisingly, all screws worked with a plastic m4 nut I had from china (not 3d printed). The project itself 1 tells to print at 100% and 0.1. When I started screwing the 4th one, I pushed the tool badly, and the screw head popped off. After reading this thread, and experiencing what I just said above ...


2

Based on CNC Kitchen measurements, the wear can be initially estimated by judging the overall length of the nozzle. Abrasive particles wear the nozzle very little on the channel (so the diameter doesn't change, for a while) but they wear out the outer surface in contact with the printed part, resulting in a shortening. Of ...


2

This is a really good question that sheds a lot of light on 3D printer software/firmware architecture, and Tom already said a lot of the things I wanted to say before getting a chance to write an answer. The basic problem is that, to do pressure advance accurately (and in a way that doesn't get it horribly wrong when inaccurate), you need to know the actual ...


2

I'm not sure what you mean by "XYZE combined speed", but I wonder if it's the same misconception as in Details of Marlin's feedrate calculation. The feedrate is a regular 3-dimensional velocity in XYZ space which is the maximum rate the printer will attempt to achieve, subject to individual axis feedrate limits (including E) and acceleration ...


2

If making your own caps ends up being the best solution, TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane) is probably your best bet. I don't have specific information on printed TPU filament and ozone, but TPU is widely regarded as one of the most chemical-resistant materials you can easily print with, and this page by Ozone Solutions rates polyurethane (no mention of ...


2

Tools spanners / wrenches - to turn both nozzles (common sizes are 6-8 metric wrenches) spanner / (fitting or adjustable) wrench - to hold a heating block or small vise - to hold a heating block (if you are going to unmount the hotend for operation), with non-flammable soft-jaws, screwdriver(s)/Allan-keys - when you need to remove shroud or plan to ...


2

The exact procedure depends on the design of the printer. After unloading filament, remove and install the nozzle at the highest temperature you will run. Otherwise, you will not get a good seal between the nozzle and heat break if you depending on tightening at lower than operating temperature. A bad seal allows the filament to leak out (oozing). ...


1

It's in the firmware Filament runout sensors generally trigger M600. Usually that preserves the bed temperature, but some firmware distributions might have this set up wrong. How is M600 working? The firmware dictates what is done in case of filament runout. The standard settings in configuration.h can look like this: //#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR #if ...


1

There is no easy way to keep the bed heated during pause Looking at the sourcecode, I am pretty sure that the current version (10/29/2019) keeps the heated bed at the right temperature. Features are built into the firmware. You need an Arduino and some wires to write new firmware to the built-in SOC. Adjusting the code should be as simple as commenting a ...


1

The grooves (notches, more accurately) are acceptable and indicate that your hobbed gear has a good grip on the filament. Many factors will cause your probably-correct diagnosis of under-extrusion. If you are confident that your extrusion settings are correct, you could have this problem from under-temperature on the nozzle. One method to assess this is to ...


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