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There is a way that you'd be able to do it but its not really conventional and could use up some filament, you could have it so that you calculate out where you want it to stop, then when you want to change it, you could have a floating object in the air that isn't part of your print to purge out the old filament and get the new one, that way when it goes ...


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When calling for a manual color change, Marlin is set up to allow to extrude extra filament. This is to ensure that the new filament is in the hotend, but it also allows to "purge" the old color from the hotend by extruding till no mixed color comes out anymore.


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Anyone know any filaments or methods to have an immediate color change There is a solution (or multiple) where you can have multi color filament without a gradual transition from one to the other color (seen from the filament side, not the extrusion/nozzle side), i.e. immediate color change. This requires an additional piece of equipment to do this ...


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It takes at least a few cm of extrusion to purge the old color before switching to a new one due to mixing in the melt zone, and possibly much more depending on the particular pigments. If the old color is something bright like red and the new one is white or something close, it can even take many tens of cm before you get a clean new color. Multi-color ...


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W.R.T Nach0z's answer: Third, the process of seasoning cast iron works because the surface of the cast iron should be smooth for minimal food sticking, and any kind of rusting causes pits and porosity in the metal. You season a cast iron pan to create a carbon layer on top of the metal. Water should not be left standing in a cast iron skillet. For my 3D ...


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First thing I'd try is making sure the nozzle is hot enough and carefully try to feed the new filament where it will be pushed - sometimes there's melted filament that just isn't hot enough to flow out and the new filament is pushing on it, jamming and making your motor make that sound. Usually getting it hot to the point where the old filament is ...


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A spool does not need to be inside a printer. Or on. Or even next to. My Ender 3 pulls his filament in from the rack above it, my TronXY X1 pulls it from about 80 cm to the left of it, where it hangs from a shelf. When making a solution that pulls in filament from afar, it is necessary to make sure the path is unobstructed and works for the whole movement ...


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Personally, I have dealt with this problem myself! I messed around with the slicer a little bit, and I found that if you make the print layer height 0.15 or 0.10 mm, it will be better. The image you attached looks as though the printer was splitting a step and only printing that part. I can't think of a reason why it would do that. I also can't find anything ...


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I used this solution, it makes a lot of sense, because I store the filament back in a box and the tip endup getting knotted.


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