It will be very difficult to heat such a large bed, simply because of the enormous power required. Thomas Sanladerer recommends at least 0.6 W/cm² but notes 0.4 W/cm² also works (but takes "forever" to reach the target temperature).
For a 30"x30" bed, 0.6 W/cm² would come out to 3.5 kW. At 110 V that would require 32 A and at ...
Yes, glass warps when hot. Use a physical touch sensor and calibrate it out, or swap glass if it's "bad".
The further you go into mechanical studies like 3d printing, mills, and lathes, you will find out that nothing is perfectly flat. Everything has a tolerance to it, whether the manufacturer provided it or not. Better manufacturers provide ...
How about the Ultimaker clips? Ultimaker uses 2 mm heat bed and 4 mm glass, that should be within reach by bending the clips a bit. They have quite a low profile/footprint.
These clamps are very cheap and can be found on those typical auction or Chinese sites.
Alternatively, you can also tape the glass to the aluminium bed using kapton tape if ...
Your best option may be to seek out a silicone rubber heating mat, using those terms for your web search. A quick search on my part shows many resources, some of which are known to the 3d printing manufacturing world, while others are equally suited for that purpose.
Don't bond the heater to the glass. You'll need to replace it when it breaks. Consider to ...
I suggest to look at a similar question, but just the glass question here:
Glass is a very smooth surface
Glass shrinks when cooling to a degree it pops the print free on itself
Glass is virtually impossible to scratch with metal scrapers
Glass stays fairly flat under heating
Refurbishing of the bed isn't needed but for applying your adhesion solution (...
It's useful to know what material you used for the print. Also, you've referenced the glass that broke in the vise, which implies a glass bed, but did you use any adhesive spray or other application?
Allowing for all of this unknown information, there may be a solution for your release. Our library makerspace has a small bottle of 50-50 water/denatured ...
If you're using borosilicate glass (aka pyrex) then it won't crack. You can get squares of ~20x20 cheaply off aliexpress.
If you're using window glass, picture frame class etc then you might have issues with cracking, it will depend on lots of factors like the wattage of your heater and the temperature of the room.
Your biggest problem will be that the bed ...
How much glue do you put on it? I use PVA based spray, barely visible, very evenly spread and no problem whatsoever of sticking paper to the glue layer.
Just level the bed as you normally would and apply a sparsely applied coat of glue, preferably from a spray can. Note that glue stick dissolves in water, so you can distribute the glue with a moist cloth ...
I think this is resolved. After looking at every conceivable source of over-extrusion and coming up negative, R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE suggested that it might be a mechanical problem in Z axis movement, like in this question.
I checked by leveling the bed and zeroing the Z axis at 0.05 mm above the bed, using a feeler gauge. I gave it the instruction to ...
PLA has two problems that keep it from being usable for your purposes.
First, it deforms under load. I've used printed C-clamps for various jobs; by the time I'm done, the clamp is generally warped by 10+ millimeters.
Second, PLA has a very low heat tolerance. The glass transition temperature of PLA is around 60-65°C, right around your intended heatbed ...
I am heating my 1 meter by 1 meter plate (yes those numbers are correct) (in progress long term project) of tempered glass with a silicone heater bed I bought as overstock on ebay.
Silicone Heating Mat
From Reprap Wiki
Silicone Heater Pad in sizes
silicone heater pad Pros: Fast heating Reliable Most use mains voltage
- DOESN'T require any amps from ...
Are you using Z-hop? Is there any play in the Z-axis direction? It appears that parts of the first layer are printed much thinner than other parts.
What can happen if there is a little play in the Z-axis direction that the nozzle doesn't return to the same level after a Z-hop movement (e.g. backlash in the leadscrew nuts).
The "transparent" printed part ...
I had this exact issue with my Qidi X-Plus. After checking with a thermometer there was a spread of 9°C - enough to burn in (always the same) certain areas when printing at higher extremes of temperatures, or causing poor adhesion in other certain areas at lower temps. Very similar scenario too, I noticed this primarily when switching over to glass from the ...
Had tried below and didn't work:
Clean the bed
Use a brand new glue stick
Verify delta configuration and make sure z-plane is flat and parallel to bed
Adjust z height to minimize the distance between nozzle and bed when z=0
Increase first layer extrude width
Printed again and watched carefully, then found that it was pull up because the printed PLA slice ...
I purchased some very, very cheap thin glass from walmart (or home depot, cant remember for sure). Probably the thinnest kind available. Went through dozens of prints heating it up to 85C only at the center and never experienced issues with cracking. Personally I believe you’ll be fine. I can look for specifics if you need them.
Let's analyze the problem:
We have a 5.5 mm total thickness.
We want to (semi)permanently affix the two layers together mechanically.
The clips shall not be higher than about 0.2 mm to allow the nozzle to pass over them.
(non)Solution attempt zero:
Let's look at the problem objectively... we can print something, can we? Well... 0.2 mm or below of PLA means ...
The most common way to install a glass bed (assuming it's literally a piece of borosilicate glass) is with binder clips. Glass is an insulator, so you may need to adjust your bed temps by a few degrees, and it will take somewhat longer to warm up.
You shouldn't need any firmware changes, but will need to adjust whatever z homing you do. If you have a limit ...
OK, let's start with your pictures. Putting aside the expansion in the XY plane, layer 1 looks seriously underextruded (gaps between the lines, even) while layers 2 and 3 look severely overextruded. It would be possible to achieve this with a reduced first-layer flow setting, but you haven't indicated that, and moreover, in addition to looking underextruded, ...
Step 1: stop using paper and get some feeler gauges. The gauge should be able to just barely pass under the HEATED nozzle.
Step 2: What are you using for bed adhesion? I use Elmer's white glue. After you think you've trammed (aka levelled) the bed, apply a generous layer of the glue in a coat on the bed. Let it dry.
Step 3: Verify bed level with a large ...
In favor of glass:
Smoother surface gives you a nicer bottom layer (though Kapton-layered steel is no slouch)
More even, regular surface makes bed easier to level
Easy to prep and clean
More scratch-resistant makes getting under a part with a metal scraper a little less harrowing
Corrosion-resistant (glass doesn't rust; silicon dioxide is in fact already ...
What can you say just looking at this picture?
->There are 2 obvious observations that can be drawn from your image.
First, the bed does not seem to be levelled correctly, the right side (especially the front right corner) is closer to the nozzle than the left and left-back side.
Is it possible to tell from this calibration print which corners are
I went to OfficeMax and got some Small clips. They are bigger than the Micro/Mini clips that ship with the printer and seem to fit just right on a glass plate.
One of the Mini clips that shipped with the Ender 3 is shown to the left. The Small size that works best is obviously centered. The Medium in the back seem way too big.
For an added bonus, they ...
They might not work for every printer, but how about old fashioned bulldog clips:
Attached at both end in the y-axis, they will avoid your Z-axis rods and frame (attached in the direction of the x-axis I have noticed them catch against the Z-axis frame).
Like so (except the image below uses the foldback clips that (I assume that) you refer to):
As @Tom pointed out, heating that much area is a pretty big deal. I would just add:
You can't draw anywhere near that much power from the normal heatbed output on a PC board like RAMPs. You could, however, use the normal output to control a big relay (semiconductor or not); that also lets you keep the high-power wiring away from the rest.
You'll want ...
There are pro and cons for leaving the sticky protection baking paper on the slate of glass:
pros (for not glueing it):
Can be removed more easily in the future (the collant is not easy to remove, requires a solvent and elbow grease)
Can remove the slate of glass to put it in the refrigerator to loosen stuck prints
Need for binder clips that may ...
The actual problem you are facing is bed adhesion, the proposed solution (in your question) shouldn't be the preferred solution to get your parts to stick to the plate/glass as plastic shrinks as it cools down. Note that a 5 °C temperature drop after the first layer usually isn't a problem, but larger temperature differences or shutting off the heat ...
There is a problem with Z-axis' uneven movement. I worked a lot on fixing this and the solution I came up with was to reduce flow in Cura post-processing. You need to measure the movement of the X-axis in the vertical direction on the first layers and calibrate flow. Hope this helps as it helped me.