9 votes
Accepted

How to utilize/calibrate print fans for PLA?

Everybody's combination of fan hardware and print settings is different. Unless someone else has the exact same printer and slicer profiles as you, there's no way to really say anything like "use X% ...
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  • 6,436
9 votes

Efficient and easy way to thermally insulate the heat block of the hotend?

The "quick and dirty" approach is to just slap a bunch of Kapton tape on there. The more the better! (Until you need to dismantle for maintenance, anyway.) I find pre-cut ceramic tape + kapton tape "...
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  • 6,436
8 votes

Efficient and easy way to thermally insulate the heat block of the hotend?

I ask myself why people hassle with kapton tape when it is so easy to use teflon sealing tape to isulate the hotend. This tape is slightly foamed to allow better sealing when used for sealing "tube ...
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  • 81
6 votes

Getting E1 Thermal Runaway errors, even after replacing the heating element on Tevo Tarantula

1 PID Tune Changing the thermosensor or the heater cartridge is a big change in the system: each of these items has internal errors differing them from each other item. If your thermosensor has a ...
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  • 19.2k
6 votes

Power consumption of filament extrusion

This is very simply stated, in fact the specific heat is a function of temperature and state of the material (liquid or solid). Also you need to consider which type of specific heat you use, e.g. the ...
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  • 30.3k
5 votes

Proper way to power down a FDM printer

According to the M109 G-code the documentation, the printer will wait to reach temperature given with S only when heating. With <...
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  • 151
5 votes
Accepted

Proper way to power down a FDM printer

[TL:DR] - If you can comfortably hold the nozzle with your fingers, you are good to go In order to understand how long one should wait, it is important to understand why one has to wait. All modern ...
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  • 4,537
5 votes

Clogging due to heat creep: buy new cooler or new hotend?

To fight heat creep, you must understand why this is happening. Heat creeps up the hotend assembly as a result of incorrect settings or hardware setup causing the filament to prematurely soften and ...
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  • 30.3k
5 votes

60 watt heater into 40 watt heatblock

I'd expect the heater sticking out as pictured to cause problems -- the exposed part of the heater will tend to overheat (it's not conducting heat away into the heat block) and isn't protected by the ...
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  • 1,491
5 votes

60 watt heater into 40 watt heatblock

Can a 60 W heater be used on a 40 W unit? Yes, you can, I used various heater cartridges with different powers ranging from 40-80 W. Where you need to look out for is that heating is not too fast ...
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  • 30.3k
4 votes

How can I insulate my thermistor?

You can use kapton tape, small PTFE tube, or silicone tape. I use PTFE on my delta printer (I do have a silicone tape wrapped around my heat block, but that's to help with keeping the heat in the ...
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  • 241
4 votes

Efficient and easy way to thermally insulate the heat block of the hotend?

I am using high temperature RTV. I just load it up and smooth it out like frosting a very small cake. I leave the top of the heater block clean and cover it with a piece of cotton insulation. I don't ...
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4 votes

How to utilize/calibrate print fans for PLA?

I use side-wind to cool down model as simple as possible. It's just a 12cm in diam fan which is driven from arduino (the same contacts as the fan next to the nozzle). No duct, no other stuff. The only ...
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  • 3,438
4 votes

Heated Bed vs Heated enclosure for large scale printer

I tend to agree with Davo, that you might want both. But I'd probably try the enclosure first. My printer is about 1200 by 400. I looked at options, and found some difficult trade-offs: First, the ...
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  • 3,161
4 votes

My extruder does not reach the set temperature

Two common problems to look out for in this situation: Make sure that your part fan (the fan that is supposed to cool the filament you just extruded, and that does not start spinning until the print ...
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  • 4,537
4 votes

My extruder does not reach the set temperature

It could be as Carl Witthoft said, that the thermistor is broken. But it looks like the PID is not calibrated correctly. It probably can reach higher T's but stops, because the P portion is not high ...
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4 votes

Creality CR-10S Pro 3D printer heated bed turns off after first few layers: normal?

Cr-10 S Pro has an eco mode make sure it's not turned on because this will turn your bed off after the first few layers have printed.
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4 votes

Creality CR-10S Pro 3D printer heated bed turns off after first few layers: normal?

If you start a print there is an "Adjust" button, that will take you to a screen where there is an option "Economic". It that is left on it will turn off the bed heater during the print.
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  • 41
4 votes

Power consumption of filament extrusion

No. Your formula is quite off, and it starts with the nomenclature: Watt Watt is the unit of energy transfer which equals power. The commonly used term "wattage" does not exist in science. ...
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  • 19.2k
4 votes
Accepted

Creating a heated chamber from a very large heated bed

Cardboard is fundamentally paper. Paper ignites - just as Ray Bradbury claims - at around 233 °C or 451 °F. A thin heater wire usually glows red hot under operation. Not dark red, not blood cherry, ...
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4 votes
Accepted

What are the variables for PID control? How to use M301? How to use this command to switch from PID to bang-bang?

What command would I enter to make this a bang-bang PID controller There's no such thing as a "bang-bang PID controller". "bang bang" is mutually exclusive of PID. The M301 command is only good for ...
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4 votes

How is heat creep characterized?

Constant jamming sounds like heat creep. It could be that: The fan might not be powerful enough. Get a better fan You're printing too slowly. Try increasing the print speed. The temp might be too hot ...
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  • 2,286
4 votes

Which 3D printer to print heat-resistant material?

Using an Ender 3 for high temperature materials is possible but you need to enclose it to be able to heat the air up to 100 °C. It's quite involved and it would be much better, if it's something you ...
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  • 3,776
4 votes

Print Nozzle Type vs Heat Requirement

Thermal conductivity is the factor to consider in this question. Cost and wear play a part in determining nozzle material selection as well. According to The Engineering Toolbox, stainless steel has a ...
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  • 9,782
3 votes

Efficient and easy way to thermally insulate the heat block of the hotend?

I just came up with my own solution before I read this discussion. (Monoprice Select v2.1 - Wanhao i3 Clone). I ~think~ I have a Mk8 hotend. I had some silicon rubber sheet (about 1.4mm thick) ...
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3 votes

Insulate hotend on Makerbot Smart Extruder

I recently wrapped a LOT of hot PLA around my print head and, as a result, had to remove the kapton tape and the fibreglass insulation that came with it. I was reluctant to use fibreglass because of ...
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3 votes
Accepted

Which capacitor to change on CR-10S S500 motherboard?

You are looking for a capacitor that must be connected to Pin 4 of the LM2596. Maybe you could provide a better picture of that area so we could see the different tracks on the board. The LM2596 is ...
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3 votes
Accepted

Weird ripping and warping of ABS print

Looking at the infill pattern visible through the tears in the top layer, it looks as if you have unreliable extrusion on the infill layers also. The solid fill layer is lifted and torn, so it is ...
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  • 4,398
3 votes
Accepted

FlashForge Creator Pro Tool Failure! Temp limit reached

It sounds like a failed TC amp chip. But we need to rule out some other stuff. Some important facts about the Creator Pro temp sensor: If you smash and short the two thermocouple wires together, ...
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  • 6,436
3 votes
Accepted

Unable to hit hot end temperature with part cooler on

This effect you describe is a commonly known problem that occurs when the print part cooling fan is not correctly positioned, i.e. if it blows air directly onto the nozzle or heater block and is best ...
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  • 30.3k

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