Everybody's combination of fan hardware and print settings is different. Unless someone else has the exact same printer and slicer profiles as you, there's no way to really say anything like "use X% for PLA" or whatever. For practical purposes, you just empirically figure it out with test prints based on a few simple rules of thumb:
Use lots of cooling for ...
The "quick and dirty" approach is to just slap a bunch of Kapton tape on there. The more the better! (Until you need to dismantle for maintenance, anyway.)
I find pre-cut ceramic tape + kapton tape "blankets" to be easy and effective. E3Dv6 and Replicator 1/2 style hot blocks should be compatible. Or you can cut your own using a sharp hobby knife.
I ask myself why people hassle with kapton tape when it is so easy to use teflon sealing tape to isulate the hotend. This tape is slightly foamed to allow better sealing when used for sealing "tube threads". It can be purchased anywhere for very little money and can stand up to 260° Celsius constantly and 300 ° for a short time (according to its data sheet) ...
To fight heat creep, you must understand why this is happening.
Heat creeps up the hotend assembly as a result of incorrect settings or hardware setup causing the filament to prematurely soften and swell.
It is important to reduce the heat travelling upwards in the first place rather than fighting the result. Too high print temperatures are an obvious ...
This is very simply stated, in fact the specific heat is a function of temperature and state of the material (liquid or solid). Also you need to consider which type of specific heat you use, e.g. the one for constant volume $C_V$ or for constant pressure $C_P$. Constant pressure is probably preferred considering the mechanics of the printer (pressing ...
According to the M109 G-code the documentation, the printer will wait to reach temperature given with S only when heating. With R, the printer will wait also when cooling down.
So if the answer of mac fails to work, try:
M109 R60 ; wait for nozzle temp to drop to 60 °C
[TL:DR] - If you can comfortably hold the nozzle with your fingers, you are good to go
In order to understand how long one should wait, it is important to understand why one has to wait.
All modern consumer-grade FDM printers have their printing head made of two assemblies: the cold end, where the extruder stepper motor is located and the filament must be ...
1 PID Tune
Changing the thermosensor or the heater cartridge is a big change in the system: each of these items has internal errors differing them from each other item. If your thermosensor has a different standard resistance by a small way than the one before, if the resistance of the cartridge is different, then the chip gets readings it does not expect. ...
I use side-wind to cool down model as simple as possible. It's just a 12cm in diam fan which is driven from arduino (the same contacts as the fan next to the nozzle). No duct, no other stuff. The only thing I consider in terms of making things better is to set up 2 fans which could coll down model from both sides.
The issue is that when model is more ...
You can use kapton tape, small PTFE tube, or silicone tape. I use PTFE on my delta printer (I do have a silicone tape wrapped around my heat block, but that's to help with keeping the heat in the block, not for eletrical insulation (although it would work for that)). These will all handle the temperatures of your heat block fairly well.
I am using high temperature RTV. I just load it up and smooth it out like frosting a very small cake. I leave the top of the heater block clean and cover it with a piece of cotton insulation. I don't care about power consumption, I just want it to stay hot when the workpiece cooling fan comes on.
I tend to agree with Davo, that you might want both. But I'd probably try the enclosure first. My printer is about 1200 by 400. I looked at options, and found some difficult trade-offs:
First, the big heatbed approach:
as you know, getting a single heatbed that big will be expensive (and if it ever breaks or fails, you have to replace it all).
a big ...
Your formula is quite off, and it starts with the nomenclature:
Watt is the unit of energy transfer which equals power.
The commonly used term "wattage" does not exist in science. It is a very despised shorthand only used in terms of electric power $P=UI$.
Both power $P$ (like work over time) and heat energy transfer $\Delta Q$ (which is ...
Cardboard is fundamentally paper. Paper ignites - just as Ray Bradbury claims - at around 233 °C or 451 °F.
A thin heater wire usually glows red hot under operation. Not dark red, not blood cherry, not dark cherry, it's usually medium cherry to dark orange in operation, as one can easily tell by looking into a trusty toaster oven, which also shows us how ...
What command would I enter to make this a bang-bang PID controller
There's no such thing as a "bang-bang PID controller". "bang bang" is mutually exclusive of PID. The M301 command is only good for fine-tuning the parameters of the PID controller, but it won't let you switch to bang bang. Unfortunately, you must update the firmware if you wish to use bang ...
Constant jamming sounds like heat creep. It could be that:
The fan might not be powerful enough. Get a better fan
You're printing too slowly. Try increasing the print speed.
The temp might be too hot on the hot end. Lower printing temp.
The heater might be too close to the radiator. Adjust the hot end so that there is a max amount of space between them.
Using an Ender 3 for high temperature materials is possible but you need to enclose it to be able to heat the air up to 100 °C.
It's quite involved and it would be much better, if it's something you do seldomly, to have the parts printed professionally.
Many thing start warping or breaking at 100 °C.
I just came up with my own solution before I read this discussion. (Monoprice Select v2.1 - Wanhao i3 Clone).
I ~think~ I have a Mk8 hotend.
I had some silicon rubber sheet (about 1.4mm thick) which started life as a cookie sheet, but I gave it a new purpose in life, LOL.
I cut two pieces to length to wrap around the hotend, and made a double thick ...
You are looking for a capacitor that must be connected to Pin 4 of the LM2596.
Maybe you could provide a better picture of that area so we could see the different tracks on the board.
The LM2596 is in the center of the right side of the board (it is also labeled with LM2596D). The pins should be counted from top to bottom (in your picture)
My guess is, ...
I recently wrapped a LOT of hot PLA around my print head and, as a result, had to remove the kapton tape and the fibreglass insulation that came with it.
I was reluctant to use fibreglass because of the tissue embedding hazard and the lung hazard (especially on what is effectively an indoor appliance) and kapton tape is very hard to find in Australia.
It sounds like a failed TC amp chip. But we need to rule out some other stuff.
Some important facts about the Creator Pro temp sensor:
If you smash and short the two thermocouple wires together, the printer will simply read room temp.
If you cut or disconnect the thermocouple wires, the printer will report NC for "not connected."
The thermocouple lookup ...
Looking at the infill pattern visible through the tears in the top layer, it looks as if you have unreliable extrusion on the infill layers also.
The solid fill layer is lifted and torn, so it is unlikely that one or two more layers of solid fill will make the result better. In my experience, bumps lead to taller bumps and print failure.
These diagnostic ...
This effect you describe is a commonly known problem that occurs when the print part cooling fan is not correctly positioned, i.e. if it blows air directly onto the nozzle or heater block and is best solved by printing an alternative part cooling fan duct. Alternatively you could insulate the heater block with some insulation cotton or silicone socks that ...
No, this is not common behavior, and yes this can cause your prints to warp or detach from the build plate.
The question is whether you instructed this (by accident) or not (e.g. it can be a result from slicing or some economy mode of the printer). This should be clear if you look into the G-code file that you print. The typical commands that concern bed ...
I resorted to google to find a candidate image which might be similar to your hotend.
Now, it is safe to assume that a like-for-like replacement will not improve matters significantly. It is also a good assumption that the performance gap which you need to close is small. Presumably you know how much time you need to wait for the creep to manifest itself so ...
Since the terminal temperatures never exceed the setpoints, there's no apparent potential for disaster. Whether it's due to missing readings or to some sequencing of power (current) applied to the bed vs. the hotend, it really doesn't matter.
If you have a similar graph of the temperatures over an hour of printing and you see signifcant anomalies there,...
e3D Heater Cartridges are documented to be around 4.8 Ω for 12 V & 30 W, 3.6 Ω for 12 V & 40 W, 19.2 Ω for 24 V 30 W and 14.4 Ω for 24 V 40 W.
7.2 Ω is a value quite far away from these values - about double of what the 12 V versions are listed and about a third/half of a 24 V heater cartridge. So it is not a cartridge that is similar to those. I ...
It does work, but you need to reset EEPROM memory once updating the firmware, if you had it enabled, so the values are transferred into the EEPROM and subsequently used.
To reset EEPROM, send the following command in your 3d printer terminal.
Then, save the firmware default settings