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20

This varies by hotend design. The following is a list of components which you might find in a typical hotend, but note that different designs may integrate these components to some extent. For instance, on the J-head the heat block, nozzle and heatbreak are all one and the same component whereas on the E3D hotends these are all separate parts. Nozzle: This ...


14

All credits for the following go to user "vermon" who posted in this thread. The following is a heavily amended version from his longer answer there. Makerbot did start its hotend series using MK as iteration designator (for Mark). The first commercially available version was the [Makerbot] MK4 on the Cupcake circa 2009. MK4 was hand built with nichrome ...


12

This is a good question to make a comparison table. All-metal hotends Vs. PTFE liner hotends. All metal: Works well for high (+250ºC) temperatures filaments like nylon or PC. No need to replace the PTFE liner (pretty obvious). Retraction performs worse. Plastic can get stuck to the inner walls. This can lead to clogging, more likely when changing from ABS ...


12

Short melting zone melts material in small amount which is suitable for thin layers with small nozzles. In opposite long melting zone can heat big amount of filament which is needed for fast printing and thick layers. short melting zone less amount of melted material thin layer heights quality printing with details give more precise volume control with ...


11

I just started with google and phrase "3d printing color mixing" and on the first place (in fact first two were valueless adverts) I got this Instructables - DIY Full Color Mixing 3D Printer. How it works? It uses magenta / cyan / yellow filaments and mixes it while printing with Diamond hotend. It definitely does what you are asking for and it's exactly ...


9

The "quick and dirty" approach is to just slap a bunch of Kapton tape on there. The more the better! (Until you need to dismantle for maintenance, anyway.) I find pre-cut ceramic tape + kapton tape "blankets" to be easy and effective. E3Dv6 and Replicator 1/2 style hot blocks should be compatible. Or you can cut your own using a sharp hobby knife. http://...


9

Printing temperature basics Manufacturers generally specify a somewhat wide range of printing temperatures, and what temperature you should actually need can only be determined by trial and error: The thermistor in your hotend is not 100 % accurate and may have an offset of a few degrees compared to its actual temperature. Your hotend has a small ...


9

Don't Panic! First of all, a printhead caked in PLA is usually not a death sentence, it is often a temporary setback. Let's start in steps! Step 1: remove the extruder We want to work on the hotend, so we remove the extruder feed first. For direct drive, we unload it, then remove it depending on your printer, so the cooling of the hotend remains. For a ...


8

I ask myself why people hassle with kapton tape when it is so easy to use teflon sealing tape to isulate the hotend. This tape is slightly foamed to allow better sealing when used for sealing "tube threads". It can be purchased anywhere for very little money and can stand up to 260° Celsius constantly and 300 ° for a short time (according to its data sheet) ...


8

The three in one print head is the closest to your concept of gradient printing and does some nice transitions. But does not meet your color mixing. Which I assume your looking for there is something like blue and yellow making green and by varying those percent getting shades of green. The three in one head does get close to a dot by dot transition. ...


8

There is a trade-off between the length of the melt zone and the speed at which you can print. The filament itself is somewhat of an insulator, so as the outside of the filament is heated up by being in contact with the melt zone, the inside stays cold. Therefore, the filament needs a certain amount of time inside the melt zone for the inside to fully melt. ...


7

I have a dual extruder Replicator 1 and having the nozzles at the same height is a must and albeit a bit of a struggle otherwise. At one point, I had to disassemble my extruder head and the nozzles didn't line up quite right. There after, printing with the lower one obviously didn't have any troubles, however, printing with the high extruder made it so the ...


7

Usually, this kind of problem is due to an issue with the control loop of the temperature. You can try to do PID Tuning by running the command M303 E0 S200 C8. This will heat up the hot end and cycle it around 200C a few times, and afterwards tell you Kp, Ki and Kd values which you need to enter into the PID settings of your firmware configuration, or store ...


7

Injection molding requires two major components: pressure and heat. So your question can be broken down into those two halves: can your average extruder handle injection molding temperatures, and can it handle injection molding pressures? Let's start with pressure. Per this page on the University of Minnesota's site, plastic injection molding tends to ...


6

In general, metal extruder without PTFE feeding is useful when printing with materials that require high temperature to melt: 300oC and above. Polycarbonate with recommended printing temperature at up to 310oC is a good example. PTFE melting point is around 320oC, but it may become soft at much lower temperatures, according to RepRap wiki: http://reprap....


6

A Kickstarter campaign just finished for a full color 3D FDM printer, the RoVa4D Full Color Blender 3D Printer. It used CYMK printing and includes black and white filament for 5 color filament feeds, plus additional feeds for flexible and support filaments. They raised \$216k against a target of \$25k. The company that is doing this has other printers ...


6

You are suffering from what is called "heat creep". Molten filament is creeping up the heat break and into the bowden tube, where it is causing a jam. You need to install a proper radiator block that is cooled by a fan, not just a lump of wood as a "cold end". The cold end is not just a connector, its primary purpose is to act as a cooler. A hot end on its ...


6

I have a Kill-A-Watt meter so I got a pretty good measurement for you with my Anet A6. Like Petar said each model is different but this should give you a idea. When heating both the nozzle and heat bed the printer consumes 160 W of power, once to temp it backs down to 9 W (it also uses 9 W when just "sitting doing nothing and is on"). When the ...


6

There could be a number of reasons for that behaviour: Please check following items: part blower/fan cools down the nozzle - stop the fan material is extruded at high speed and takes the heat loose thermistor (when the move occurs as it moves a bit internally) the power supply unit voltage varies - so temperature reading varies as well - measure voltage ...


6

Grinding is due to attempts to advance filament faster than it can be melted and dispensed. Try one or more of the following: Raise the head temperature (to meet current throughput demand) Lower the print speed (to reduce throughput demand) Slice for thinner layers (to reduce throughput demand)


6

The Ender 3 takes an M6 thread (metric 6 mm diameter). Measurement of stock nozzle shown. Most sellers will list compatible printers Ender 2, Ender 3, Ender 4, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 Mini, CR-10-S4, CR-10-S5, CR-8, CR-7. Will Also Fit Any Other MK10 Heater Blocks. I recently bought some titanium alloy nozzles as the brass one got closed over after ...


6

To fight heat creep, you must understand why this is happening. Heat creeps up the hotend assembly as a result of incorrect settings or hardware setup causing the filament to prematurely soften and swell. It is important to reduce the heat travelling upwards in the first place rather than fighting the result. Too high print temperatures are an obvious ...


6

A conventional hot end needs only to be obstruction-free to the desired printing height on two adjacent sides to achieve what you want. The only other requirement is to be able to tell your slicer in what order you want your models to be printed. For example, if your hot end is free of obstructions on the front and left sides, all that you need to do is lay ...


6

It can be done cheaply, as two different users have proven, see A practical 10 Cents Ceramic tube hotend, and; Hotend with ceramic parts. However, as Paulster2 states in his answer, there are some technical issues with using it, which make it rather problematic. Apparently, in comparison with PTFE, the thermal conductivity of the ceramic in spark plugs ...


6

As 0scar noted, this looks suspiciously like a JST connector, but the left one is not a JST RCY connector and it is neither one of the common JST PH nor JST XH, JST manufacturer pages show. In fact, it's not a wire-to-wire JST connector. The BQ-store claims it is a 2.5 mm JST connector, but JST has some 10 dozen different types of connectors, some three ...


5

Usually there is no need to clean the hotend, as filament sticks well to itself rather than to the inside of the hotend. If there are remains - the simplest way to clean it up is to extrude 5-10 cm of new filament, which will gather all remainings clean the hotend. The above concerns changing filament in the same group of plastic. So if you print PLA you ...


5

It looks like you got too tight nozzle, too cold hotend or extruding speed is too high (all could be in the same time of course). As filament goes into the teflon tube (coldend) and then into hotend it doesn't have enough time to go out throught the nozzle. So it causes that melted filament accumulates in hotend and pushes out teflon tube. Check application ...


5

Yeah, Yeah... Old topic I know, but still an ongoing topic for new and old hands alike. "All metal or PTFE lined" along with "Bowden or Direct drive" Those are the questions! This is a very unusual hobby, quite literally every possible modification, upgrade, printer setting, slicer setting, bed adhesion issue... Basically anything that can be altered at ...


5

As darth_pixel points out, people have had limited success with feeding multiple colors into a diamond hotend and mixing them, but I would argue this is not truly what you're looking for. The problem is that when feeding multiple filaments into a diamond-style hotend, the colors do not naturally mix completely: if you look at an object printed this way the ...


5

Branching off of TomvanderZanden's answer, this process cannot easily be done with an extruder alone. To properly color polymers, a pigment must be added during the initial treatment process (otherwise applied during any heat treatment). These pigments do not necessarily allow a simple red + blue = purple process to change the color for many reasons ...


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