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1

I had the exact same issue and then suddenly it went away. The only thing I had changed was my Z-offset. I moved it away from the plate by roughly 0.1 mm. To confirm it was the reason I set it back closer to the plate and the problem came back. I think When the nozzle is too close to the plate the plastic cannot freely flow out and hence the pressure ...


1

It looks like a sensor issue. Maybe a temporary resistance in a contact of the sensor circuit made the temperature look low to the controler, so it applies power to raise the temperature. When the contection recovers, the temperature is too high, so the controller lowers the power to restore the temperature.


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1 meter puts you far enough away from the heater than you don't need high temperature wiring to extend it. The larger the guage(e.g. 20 guage) the less resistance you will add to the heater circuit. This doesn't matter as long as you can still achieve your maximum temperature (if you can still achieve the same current without maxing out your voltage on the ...


2

Heater polarity doesn't matter The heater cartridges are just large resistors and so polarity is irrelevant. Either can be positive or negative. You can extend the leads by cutting and splicing in ~20 gauge wires* to a two pin JST connector line you suggest. *At 24 volts and 30 watts, you need wire that is rated to carry at least 1.25 amps. The US National ...


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If you want a single word answer, then no. Before you ask this question you need to figure out why your prints are slower than you want them to be. With default settings, unless your models are something dead simple like a big cube or cylinder, you're almost certainly limited by acceleration, not extrusion rate or even max print/travel speed (which you'll ...


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